94extreme

may want to run a hot lead to the switch.

the 1st one looks a bit funky.

all of the above and maybe you have a flow restiction somewhere.. mufler?

you turn them till the strap is striaght.. no bends in it at all. actually you want like a tad (3/4"?) toe-in but you ain't gonna eye that especially if you got some mudders on there. the strap:i kept one end free. you kind of have to work both sides at the same time so i just walked around the truck to run the line on the other side. a strap on each side would be best.

it's awesome except for the rock crawling part. that takes some getting used to.

well, it probably depends how much off it is. mine was bad but i didn't have the time to jack with the other side as all that stuff was a pita to loosen.

except that you may have to do both tie rods assemblies as i did mine on one side and now it pulls that direction when braking. i like the strap ideas too.. nice and easy to see.

hmmm... doesn't ring a bell.

lol. 88's sites has been down for quite some time now. i don't think he is bringing it back.. the re-indexing stuff is here too.. check out garage--> how to's it's been a while since that talk has surfaced. probably more then a year.

lol... and aren't the ones on the Finn bushwhacker anyway?

maybe you just lost a weight off your rim and they are just out of balance.

you need softer shocks.

here you go Pezzy:

i think this is actually the best advice here. in 4lo the clutch is the most forgiving. i don't agree on no gas techniques as that's what leads to the jerking because many, many manual vehicles actually need a little bit of gas. i can get my truck rolling without but it's way easier when i give it a little bit of gas. after the addendum i'll also would go with hill clutching eventually. start on flat though. if you're gonna teach him shifting by sound you might as well teach him to shift w/o the clutch. the sounds will sink in faster.. 2000rpm is best for mpgs; 3000rpm is better for performance.. the first is more forgiving and the gears go in pretty easy w/o clutch. the acceleration isn't there but no jerking either.

naah, sticky caliper wouldn't effect the MC. it's a pretty easy job man. you can get it done by lunch. i don't know if the order of bleeding really matters. some service techs tell me they do it the exactly opposite. start with the closest and work towards the furthest. hmm

nice job, you crack head!

woot! woot!

welcome. you could still have a hole in the lines or something.. leaking anywhere? the other thing is that your brake fluid should sit for 24h hours before being used. (as in unshaken) ABS? there still could be an issue there. the MC may be going if nothing else is wrong but if it was aok before the caliper work then i doubt it.

so what year is your rig? pic is not of a 96 truck. milage? what does the ATF look like?

i have a little bit of a whirling sound.. not sure if it's the diff or the t-c though.

ditto. i think we have had enough b-ing on here, no? maybe once the forums gets upgraded we could have a ranking system or something.

lol.. yeah. i switched from atf to gl in my t-case.. it smelled funky for 3-4mo or so but no issues at all. the funny thing is that a nissan tech told me that it would even be ok to mix gl and atf in the tc.

pull the panel if it isn't locked.

you actually have to have something to attach the hi-lift to otherwise it's pretty impossible to use w/o tearing up something bad.

that would be the transmission itself. on the TC, earlier years call for gl and later for atf.