94extreme

go COLTS!

here is a video of the shifting procedure: 2H-4H-N-4L

lol.. all nissans, even Xterras shift this same way. let us know on any progress.

bad speed sensor is possibly the cause of an erratic tach.

here it comes: .... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6957

there was a topic on here on seafoming a while back. not sure where or when but if you want it you can probably find it. i think it boiled down to: follow the directions on the can. lol

looking good.

how much for a shop to do it? regardless, pretty sure you need a press. a slide hammer might work though and with a little bit of tinkering it probably can be done. oh, check fluid level in there my man.

hope you all have a safe and fun new year's celebration. -alcohol- talk to you all next year.

search on here is kind of dead so the best thing is to look through the forums, make sure you adjust the time span to longer then 30 days. the ecu info is in the garage --> how to's

sounds about normal. maybe tad high at the higher range. check what 88 mentioned and maybe look at the TBI just for kix. clean it v. gently if the wires are crusty.

attica eh? sly Xs are marketed to the outdoorsy types.. when pathfinders were the dog there was very little of the outdoorsy types. the truck was a little bit on the yuppy side but definitely people who bought them got out there some. X is basically an upgraded pathy is still don't understand why it's not called pathfinder. old pathy = wd21; X = wd22 while the newer pathfinder is r50.. that's a different platform and a departure from the old pathy. r51 being the newest. anywho, there are plenty of r50s here and i am glad too. there are also many pathfinder owners that are on other forums and not part of this great group here. btw. there are really less members who are avtive.. probably 100 or so. you guys may have low memeber numbers but you also have posted only 15 times. what's up with that?

yeah, definitely go back and have them have a looksy. be present when they do it, if you can.

bingo!! check brake fluid level asap. then look inside the drum. if it's wet right there where the pistons push on the shoes then i bet that's what it is. the axle grease is freaking black and way thick even with a healthy dose of water in it wouldn't be transparent. do those drums look like they've been in water/mud?

damn, that's sucky. i'd soak the plugs with penetrating oil if they aren't budging. if you need it. otherwise these guys got you covered. good luck.

yeah, he thinks it did. his truck is already gone too.

thanks for the correction, i am just not all up to par with your models.

well, all your fluids should be on a schedule so whenever that comes up. t-belt is coming up. 105k(?) and the rest you mentioned, you should probably knock out when you do the t-belt. this shouldn't cost that much either. probably under $200. look in your owner's manual. there is a maintenance schedule somewhere close to the back of the book. great point to start if you have no records of what was changed when..

that's my point. you didn't need one on your board, did you?

good luck man. too bad you gave up but maybe one day you'll find the path again.

i am pretty sure none here has one but i really don't think you could go wrong with any on board welder. have no clue where you're from but you really don't need it unless you're in AK or somewhere as remote.

Without Consult 1. Turn ignition On. 2. Turn diagnostic mode selector on ECU fully clockwise and wait until inspection lamps flash. Number of flashes displayed indicates corresponding mode. 3. Note number of flashes, then immediately turn diagnostic mode selector fully counterclockwise. 4. If ignition is turned Off during diagnosis, in each mode, and then turned back on again after power to the ECU has dropped off completely, diagnosis will automatically return to Mode I. 5. For description of modes, proceed as follows: 1. (Mode I): with engine stopped, system in bulb check state. with engine running, system in malfunction warning state. 2. (Mode II): with engine stopped, system in self diagnostic results state. with engine running, system in front O2S monitor state.

^^^ P1212 - ABS/TCS Communication Line

^^^ yeah. you don't see those much here.. wuz wondering myself.

yup, rear hatch latch. just undo the two 12mm (?) bolts and move the latch just a mm or so towards the front of the vehicle. retighten the said bolts and you're done. <5min job.