94extreme

if you're going to lift it then get bigger tires after you do it. 31s go fine on stock. may rub a smidget here and there but no prob otherwise.

i'd prob. depend on how overfilled. a bit no, but a whole bunch maybe problematic. if $1500 includes the whole job, i'd say not bad. on other threads somewhere here, $1000 was mentioned for a regular auto. i think. it'll also depend on where in the country you reside...

did the tk run ok before? was anything doen to it right before it went dead? how many miles on it? what were the codes that the ECU flashed??? maybe it's that relay... have you checked the starter?

nice pix g. '69 was a good year, wasn't it?

i have. not great for 4x4 applications though. the sand/water...can get in through that slit... but good for temporary repair...

per half hour? man...

it's pretty amazing, isn't it? the pathys have definately best ecu i have ever seen. I don't know of any other vehicles where you can run diagnostics etc.. with an on-board computer. for the new Xs you have to purchase a reader. :oops:

k9sar, yup, exactly... railstop, glad you didn't take it some other way. you make very valid points and i do agree. hopefully others here read this thread and will consider your point too. 100 for the tranny??? man, that's a steal...

I am glad you're contributing here railstop. This is after all npora site. do you know what that stands for? if you are looking for specifically "basic" upgrades you have to specify. most here will assume that you're talking wheeling not street/stock. what's up with the tranny?

75$/h is about the going rate. $1500 for everything is actually pretty cheap. The pathy tranny is a pita but totaly doable.. I don't know if you can do this on the pathy since i haven't tried it on one but on other vehicles i have been able to just unbotl a lot of stuff and then move the tranny just enought to be able to access the clutch area; without completely removing the darn thing from under there. if you can do that, it'd save you a lot of time and busted nuckles...

yup, the vacuum leak will do what you said your tk is doing so will bad O2 sensor. check codes and you;ll know for sure. to reset you ecu do what k9sar said. that's the way... what's your milage?... if it's down then that's another clue for O2 sensor... as to the light going on/off. it will do that if the part isn't completely kaput plus, i think 88 mentioned this somewhere, the light will go off after 30 on/off cycles of turning your ignition. OTH, my light has been on solid for 2 months but i know for sure that the O2 sensor is completely fried which actually helped with the gas milage and performance in general. O2 sensor is 22mm. It can be a pita to remove because of the rust.... Partially why I haven't done mine yet... good luck.

good luck man. take pix and then post a report on here for others to follow...

they are full of it. there are plenty pathys with a factory roof racks... :oops: pics of that too please!!! -bounce-

ouch!

It's a real PITA to get to the clutch on these trucks. you have to remove a lot of chit... very time consuming and ofcourse some of the components are very heavy... but youcan do it if you've done others before...

aghh! that's ugly, glad you found the prob.

are you grounded properly there?

that's not really tresspassing, is it???

freakin loco...

is that hard to do? the disassembly..

you should be able to just do the shoes. they are kinda a pita comparing to thhe discs but not that bad. JJ, i can see that possibility. my break fluid looks pretty bad. i don't recall seing it being changed in the records. i bet it's prob. original. I'll probably drain/flush the system and replace the hoses. I just need a helper...

i think i've seen this post somewhere.... anyway, definately run codes. there may not be any though. you didn't mention the check engine light being on. the welding could have had a negative impact.

Poor man's impact wrench. Works great though Well, I'll have to figure something out. probably a bunch of pb blaster and v-grips or pipe wrench and a bfh. -alcohol- I'll probably remove the x member that's right there too and see what happens. Right now I am getting 15mph so that's not really a priority.

OK, I see you're uni so that's different. I lift mine up on 3or4 ton jackstands and put them under the chassis rails. It sits dead weight, no budge. Of course if it's running I am not getting too far under there but if it's off no prob. I don't know exactly where and how the jacking points are on the uni but that's kinda tricky anyway....

Hey, I have done this with the stand many, many times. You just have to be very carefull but it really is no prob...