94extreme

you sure the oil is moving through the cooler? kinks, obstructions... and do you have enough? is the fluid just burned or is there heavy suspention? just wondering...

check in the stikys. the ecu box is under the passenger seat. follow the directions and it's pretty easy. gotta love the pathys.

...and perform a search for more info. this topic and installation have been discussed a lot... (search is in the second header down)

that's my guess too...

get a stetoscope and listen for funky clicks in around the motor. that may help you narrow down the misses and/or any other problems... You could also dis-connect each wire while the enigne is running. if it does get any worse on any of them that's where I'd focus my attention. You may also want to do compression tests on all cylinders...

what? when? how?...

I have factory installed ones in the ceiling in the rear compartment. The 89 had had them in the sides of the cargo area, as I remember, and when loaded with gear the music was obstructed....so that might be the case if you do put yours in the tailgate...

I'd recommend that you always turn your engine in its natural direction. CW

90-98 ft-lbs

what's expensive? 4wheelparts had a pretty nice one for just over a bill.

not necessarily but a bad wire/s surely will... you could have gotten "shicked" (sp) if the wires aren't on tightly...

oddball? tell me more i surely don't recall any probs...

i'd suggest a tape measure...

it's been a long time since i've done this on a pathy but i don't think you have to remove anything except the wheel and calliper and then what you said about the hub....make sure you clean the locking hub and relube it.

just change your oil every 3k and you shouldn't need no magic in no can to pull wool over your eyes...

Ok, going on 102k mi.

High compression engines like thinner oil... and yes, the lifters will tick if the oil doesn't get there-guess what's going on in it's absence....the manual calls for 5/30 and i run 10/30. I wouldn't go with anything thicker then that no matter what temp. 40 is too thick when hot and 20 way, way too thick when cold. go with what Nissan recommends and you should be good to 300k at least. as to synth. I would put in mobil1 if i were you no matter how many miles. i just got my tk and am breaking it in to receive full synth in the future. I mixed in about 1pt of synth(10/30) and 3qts of regular mobil 10/30. next time it'll get a full qt. and so on. thus far no leaks but i did use a bit of oil (1/2pt. maybe) on my last trip-2300mi. No leaks thus far but if any develop i'll stick with dyno till i do the timing belt and thus many gaskets.... When you just start using synth oil make sure you change filter everytime or more often-depending on how often you do your changes, because synth oil loosens all the crap in the motor and guess where all that ends up.... I ran synth in my old 89 (RIP) and the oil was as clear as in the new bottle even after 100k mi. It ran like a champ at 175k and probably would've for a good long time.... BTW: if you do buy a new vehicle do not run synth in it during the break-in period!

JB weld is good stuff man. All the nuts on my tk for the hatch supports were welded. I just did that job about a couple of months ago w/ no prob. sorry to hear about your pita.

check the thermostat!

hmm?? not a bad idea but i have 1k miles or more to drive. wheeling, etc...I'll really need to know how fast/far I am going though. LOL

pretty much, might want to search for tensioner adjustment, 88 had some issues with that. I don't remember having any but it has been a while. I think i did the feeler guage thingy and it was fine.

man, i'm leaving on sat and just don't have time to get a run around from the stealer so we'll have to explore the rollback procedures after I return

no man, you'll have to dis-assemble back to the belt - the valve timing gotta be on the money. Then align your dots and I think the belt has the 3 markings too and that should be good. I wouldn't really trurn much of anything without the belt except to bump it to align so you want to find TDC before removing it. Your spark timing should be as it was. You shouldn't have to re-time it but never know.

in the poll it says "miles" so that's my guess. 1.6km=1mi

have you checked for ECU codes or done any diagnostics with it? it also could be loose vacuum connection somewhere; that'll do it too.