94extreme

it depends on the years. the later ones (mine is 94) you just move the passenger seat forward and you can access the ECU without a prob. I think you only have to remove the seat on the first gen ones.

man, you must be bored. trying to start something with 88, are yah? -thnkboutit-

doesn't mean that everything is OK though. check your ECU codes. See garage stickies for more info...

hey, are you sure they'll actually do that?

I won't vote right now since I'm about to turn 100k next week.

if they look pitted, corroded etc.. they are shot. without looking you're just guessing.

2. it maybe brakes. Well, it is 2004 and thus just because you bought it 6mo ago doesn't mean that the breaks are OK. it is an 01 right? without hearing/seeing for myself can't tell. it could be all kinds of things. check your shields on the exhaust and/or for something rubbing on the drive shaft(s)

"Do not go off road" LOL that's a quote from his NPORA page...

if you guys would look at diezelboys avitar you would notice a snorkle but I dunno about the wireing/battery. good Q though.

good.

Hey man, those are available and $20 each.

are you getting anything out of the coil? it may be your coil.

what 88 said, that's what it looks like to me. it's ok/normal. don't worry about it....

What you describe could also be an exhaust leak. I had one that sounded just like that on my 89.

oh, thanks, I see it.

I don't know where you guys are from but an open thermo around these winters, you'll never reach operating temps. Believe me, my f150 was that way for a while. In the summer you really could cook your engine if there isn't enough air flow to the rad, because you may never let the rad do it's job with an open coolant flow. On the other hand, a lot of construction machinery around here runs without thermos in the summer, but they are mainly in the open on in a traffic corque.

Also, sometimes after market thermos do not work worth of crap. May want to splurge at the stealer if you really think it's the thermo. To check thermo, you can stick it in a pan of water, heat the water while monitoring the temo of H2O with a thermometer. it should "pop" open when it reaches the designated temp (should be stamped on thermo's lip)

oooh, too much crossthreading. i answered on one of them...

Just sitting there and idleing it may get a bit hot. How is it while driving? If you fill your overflow and drive around the rad should burp itself and top of from the reservoir but you want to help it as much as possible by filling till the fluid runs out the little screw (after loosening) in the top house. Just make sure the res doesn't run dry.... That's how I've always have done it and my junk is all g.

What do you mean by rageing?

thanks sw. where are these diff vents located exactly? I just had surgey and can't go and lay down and look. and you mean your vents go under the triangular windows? and did you drill in the body to get them up there?

eggzactly!

If it's open, you could really cook that thinkg. If you see your gauge rise high get some air onto your rad. -- drive. Otherwise should be Ok but maybe not at highest efficiency which is about 1/2 way to hot. my 2c

if you do it this way, count the teeth on the belt between your markings; belts do stretch you know. It is so much easier if you hit TDC though. I've been through this before many times....

Yup, you are on the right track. I'd get the engine TDC before taking the belt off. That should ease the procedure.