Citron

When you say service manual, do you mean a factory service manual or Chilton's? If Chilton's, then yes it is probably wrong. The best thing to do with a Chilton's is use it to hold the pages of the FSM open.

Those look pretty beefy. How much lift did you get? How's the ride?

Very nice. I have being thinking about pulling my tire carrier and getting it powder coated. I don't know if that would be worth the extra expense vs a rattle can. Also really like the rims. I will need to look into those, bent one of my rims this summer.

+1 on the masking tape. I was very glad I did that after dropping bolts a number of times. Same with spark plug holes. Don't leave them open for an extended time or something will fall in. Pull old plugs and put new in. I completely forgot about the egr, deleted mine over a year ago.

There are a number of vaccum and coolant hoses that connect to the intake. Plan on replacing those, a few run under the upper intake so while the intake is off would be a great time to replace them. I believe a few are molded, so you will need to get them on order. You need to pull the distributor to access one of the valve cover bolts, so you will need a timing light to verify timing when it goes back together. Also a great time to replace spark plugs if needed. #6 is so much easier without the intake on. Careful when removing the air ducting, it can be stiff a tear a small hole. That's all I can think of right now.

I will look into this. Never thought to look at rugged rocks for build info. Thanks!

Thanks for the reply. It seems like most everybody that runs leafs is happy with them, but they all plan on going coils eventually. Maybe I will go coils to begin with, in the long run it would be cheaper then going leafs, then coils. Am I over thinking the coil links? Is it easier to set up then I am making it out to be?

Okay, after posting on here a while back about doing a lift and steering upgrade, I decided to go the SAS route. Since I wanted to do a SAS eventually anyway, it didn't make sense to spend the money on lifting the ifs. I picked up a high pinion Dana 44 housing, kind of an impulse buy. I am leaning towards a SUA setup for simplicity sake, but keep going back to 3 link and coils. How hard is it to get the links setup? I have downloaded a link calculator but it wants info that I have no way of getting, like weight per corner. I don't have a way to measure that. Enough people have done this that I was hoping to find solid measurements, like run top link from point x to point y, but can't find anything with details. I see the advantages to both suspension setups, but would want to make all four corners the same. So the extra cost of going link up front would be offset by the added cost of doing leafs in the back, if I chose leaf setup. Sorry if this is rambling, I am sick and having a hard time focusing my thoughts. I guess my question is a 3 link setup that complicated to get right? All work will need to be done in my driveway, as I only have a one car garage that is stuffed with tools and materials.

Is it just the photo, or is it curved?

It's not as complicated as all that. Pretty much any muffler would work. Heck, you could put a glass pack on and not have issues. Sound like crap on a V6 though. Usually, people get worse mileage with new performance mufflers because they like the sound so they put their foot into it more. Much more important is cats and O2 sensors. Bad or improper cats can effect the O2 sensor which will change your air fuel ratio. Muffler simply muffles the sound.

I think they drilled the hole as a weight saving measure.

I much prefer the rally style to the light bars. Don't like the look of light bars at all.

I agree, factory fuses are usually in a fuse box, not tucked under the dash. I wonder if it has an aftermarket security system that is messing up.

I don't have a r51, but from other vehicles, I would say this is normal. My Titan will stay at high idle for a few minutes on cold start. The oil pressure is normal. The oil pump is engine driven, so it changes based on RPM. As far as not seeing it on other vehicles, not all vehicles give true readings on the gauge. A F150 I had the oil pressure gauge was either in normal or not, kind of a pass fail. If pressure was above a certain psi, it read normal. The sending unit was a pressure switch.

I have always used Bruce Titus, mainly because they are local and friendly. Plus I drive past often when we go to town to go shopping. If it is not something I can find on the site, I call them and they can usually find it. I find myself getting more aftermarket stuff now though.

I thought they came with auto hubs?

Go to the local boat store and buy a depth finder for the front.

Huh learn something new, never heard that called bump start. You said it wouldn't even start when jumping. Is it turning over?

If you are replacing it, wouldn't hurt to look into upgrading to a 100 or 150 amp. Especially if you are going to run things like a winch. 70 amp seems awfully small. Of course these did not come with a lot of electronics stock.

I would suggest stop hitting puddles. Maybe I am dumb, but I have never heard the phrase "bump start". What do you mean? Is it turning over but not starting, not turning over, just clicking? Like SpecialWarr said, need more details. Also, when we used to go to hunting camp, we would cross the Mentasta river about five times. The trick to water crossings is high RPM and slow speed. If you hit the water at speed, you create a wave that you push with the front and end up swamping your engine. Slower speed prevents the wave.

Haven't named mine yet, but I should call it the money pit, almost as bad as owning a boat.

You can rebuild alternators. You can purchase a kit, that has bearings, brushes, regulator, etc or just replace the diode. Usually, it is cheaper and easier to replace the alternator. It is pretty hard to track down rebuild kits anymore.

Yes, I was mistaken, the only change mid run was adding a shield to the resistors to prevent debris contact.

I had the same issue. It was at the stop and couldn't reach timing. When I replaced the timing belt, I also replaced the valve cover gaskets. This required removing the distributor. I didn't pay close attention to where the rotor was pointing because I knew it needed to point at 1. When going back together a few days later, it never lined up perfectly with 1, so I put the distributor in with the rotor a little after 1, and the timing marks were on the side of the crank pulley. I pulled the distributor and reinstalled so the rotor was a bit before 1, was able to set timing perfectly and it is in the middle of the adjustment range. I suggest pulling the distributor. It sounds like you are a tooth off.

I thought​ it was on a previous page of this thread. IIRC about mid run of the wd21 they moved the resistors to a different location. I will look around a bit.