LittleFR

You put in the correct ECM? I don't know about pathfinders but I put in a computer from a newer 5.0 once in an older 5.0 and the engine raced and my timing was so advanced it spark knocked. It seems like if it ran fine then you changed the ECM then it doesn't run fine that is the common factor. Unless it was broken down for the last ten years and you just got it running. Just for kicks I'd also look for vacuum leaks and wires you may have knocked loose recently.

Fixed it for you. My tires are $800 a set not mounted or balanced. Soooo.... Yeah I paid the $60 for an alignment. I always do. It's like changing your oil, it's just preventative maintenance. I'm cheap so I did the Warns, end links, struts, lift, springs myself... But I don't enjoy rotating my tires every 3k miles to save under a hundred bucks.

It's really not too bad as long as you aren't lifting it while your in there. Be prepared to cut off the sway bar end links and just have new ones. They are made out of Tungston or some experimental metal, cutting them off slowed me down and really made me unhappy. Also get the arrows lined up proper on the strut braket cup things, I put mine on 90 degrees off and one side was lifted like an inch higher until I compressed the springs and twisted it. The easiest thing to do is pull the tires and spray paint straight down each strut so you can refer back for assembly. As stated I pulled a CV apart by hand.... don't do that. Good luck.

You can use 4wd unlocked... I use it to get trailers moving with 4 low it's fine... Just don't use the auto function because if it senses slip it will apply power at the t-case at whatever speed your rear is going to the front end (which is stationary) You'll only do it once, I promise. Don't expect big mileage gains. But it does make steering more nimble, coasting easier and saves CVs which is worth it by itself.

The only issue you will have is taking off and hauling balls uphill. Once you are going the tires are just extra rotating mass to slow down and a mild gear reduction when (taking off and going uphill) I would pull what I needed to pull, kick out my OD for any grade and not look back. I have 32's and tow regularly we have hills not mountains but I kick out the OD and use a lighter foot.

You may be better off tapping a size larger and using a different plug... I don't trust the heli-coils. They can work, I've seen a ball of thread tape hold in a plug but it just makes you nervous for the remainder of ownership.

If it's only doing it during a nose dive ie: hard braking going fast it makes me question that it's the brakes at all..... And not front suspension issues like anti-sway end links or something.

A few weeks after we got my wife's new car I got her a remote start for it... My mom drove it to get it done as my wife and I both have jobs we can't miss unplanned... My mom backed into a pole leaving the shop. The car has a backup camera and my mom was watching it. Still haven't figured that one out. And this past week a truck put a rock into the windshield of that car and the ins won't pay for tint replacement that was 2 days old when it happened!! Last brand new car I'm ever buying, ever. Everytime I look at it there is a new parking lot ding or scratch. I owe more on the dang thing than my house and I want to set it on fire because I can't (have anything nice)

I weld a lot of sheetmetal for body work with flux core. It just takes technique and practice. I even drug my welder to work and put wheel arches in a truck. Cab corners in another and rocker panels... Then got to paint them and a dump truck it all on the clock. Best week ever. I use .30 flux core it seems to be perfect for thin metal. .25 is too hot and any bigger you need a better 220 welder than mine to properly utilize. A lot of people hate flux core because it pops and burns you, I personally keep welding until I'm on fire enough it lights up the inside of my helmet. It just doesn't bother me anymore... Except overhead welding in a tight place with no helmet just look close your eyes burn off your eyebrows then do it again. I have a friend that stick welds old rusty exhaust pipe and sheetmetal, he is the best welder I know (I'm not a welder... I'm a guy that can weld and he is proof) Welding galvanized is bad... My brother and I have both got ten 'welders flu' from cutting galvanized culverts at our jobs. It's bad all the way around. I'm glad your going a different way on that, I still do it when it's required but all the ventilation in the world can still catch you in the end. I'm ready to see some metal on an R50 on this project underway. Are you replacing the flimsy slider racks too to keep it lower?

I live 6 miles from work.... Not exactly optimum as I usually don't get OD or lockup until the engine is up to temp, halfway through my drive. My wife and I did some long road trips lately and we broke 300 miles on a tank still never got into the 16mpg range. I have an auto so it's not going to do as well as a manual (could potentially do driven properly) but I tend to play harder in anything with a clutch. Still nowhere near the 620miles he wants on a 20 gallon tank. Auxiliary fuel tank would be the only way to achieve this in an R50. You could spend 10k dollars on an engine trans and gear vendors and have a very expensive R50 on 32's that sometimes breaks into the low 20mpg range.

Just thinking off hand of the last time I looked at mine.... Yes, I think I remember checking my brakes and rotors over and thinking, what a freaking nightmare, please don't ever warp on me little rotors. actually yep I was right, here is a video that almost makes it look enjoyable if you fast forward it to the end.

The clicking makes me think bushings are letting the whole axle shift fore and aft. I would rotate that tire to the left rear and left to right (watching wear on both) to make for sure you eliminate the tire itself out of the equation then delve further into the suspension.

I used Vinyl paint by duplicolor I believe on my 1970 F100 Mats and Carpet. That was 5years ago they still look new. I vacuumed the fire out of them... then fluffed it with a comb, sprayed it then fluffed it then sprayed again and vacuumed it and they are still jet black, not too stiff and look great. I had the Vinyl paint to coat the cab roof and I've had to recoat it once but it was just to hid some cracking from underneath.

Mine will hold third until 85+ if held to the floor. It should never kickdown to second going that fast. I have no idea on 0-60. I just drive mine and want it to last. Did he use genuine nissan fluid? It's worth the extra .75 cents.

I run Goodyear Duratracs. 265/70r16 they are MTs I had to trim and lift, but every R50 is different. I like the Generals much better than the BFGs for the money. I like the Firestone Winterforce too and if I wanted MS AT 265/70r16 I would buy them again for any vehicle I've had 3 sets of them. The General Grabber Arctic is on sale too... I think I'm just biased to MTs and MnS winter tires. I hate puny tread for our diverse weather and country roads. http://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireResultsServlet?tab=ALL&width=265%2F&ratio=70&diameter=16&zipCode=&forFilters=false&sortFlag=true&sortString=Price&sortHighLow=lowToHigh&filtering=true#1

I plan on getting an XTerra ProX4 Manual to replace my R50. That's several years away and I don't need 3rd row. My wife has a 2015 Toyota Venza AWD XLE, I love that thing and it's amazing in snow. I would rather drive an awd Safari van than something like the Armada, they are so hideous but that's just me. We were driving a Toyota Matrix with ice racing tires and loved it but it was cracking 200k miles, prior to that an 08 Grand Prix but it wasn't working with car seats.

Drop the air out of front tires too.

Checked for rat nest in air filter housing? I have seen that cause your exact issues. A bottle of Heet sounds like would be better than injector cleaner for that situation. Probably got water in the tank from condensation.

They can do a pressure test on the radiator cap or run it and do an air bubble check. Either way the leak has to be fixed for them to work. I would say the overheating probably put you into some kind of limp mode and that was the revving issue. It is probably not engine damage but overheating can do a lot of damage. I don't remember where the H is on my temp gauge I will look in morning.

Not much you can do until you find the leak and fix it. Then your going to have to refill and drive it to see if you have a blown head gasket.

Try running a direct ground from the trailer to the truck. The trailer lights may be getting a crappy ground through the ball (if the ground wire isn't solid to the lights)

I wouldn't go past 2.5" with coil or spacer lift. I have 2.5-2.75 and that's the ragged edge.

With 2" spacer to get 2.5" lift front and fresh moog stock springs. In the rear with medium duty OME you need a 1.5" spacer to get a .5" up in the rear vs front (that's what I run) on the 2001 on the passenger side you either gotta grind the tab or the spacer to clear a factory welded tab (when running the spacer on bottom of spring, as you should)

I pulled my inlaws 3/4 ton Avalanche ten miles home. It was an 8.1 liter 4x4 (the crankshaft position sensor went out) My pathy was not happy, I thought I was going to have to use 4 low to make it up the hills.

4th trans? That blows my mind. Sounds like the TC was never cut and cleaned and the trans cooler wasn't flushed. I always replace or get a cut and clean on TC. I don't know about the total engine swap but allegedly you can get one out of a 350z and do a computer swap.