LittleFR

I was going to add... Once you get the backspacing proper and you get over modifying your bumper.... I could easily fit 33's the 275/65r16's are in fact much cheaper. If I would do a hair more trimming up front and be willing to totally lose my mud flaps they would clear and cost much less due to many more tire options. In the real world having auto and 4.36 gears even with the 3.5 motor 33's would be a huge performance drain and I really like my mud flaps so it wasn't a viable option for me. You just need to research backspacing and make a choice. I had a set of lug centric 1" spacers I bought years ago for a chevy for $50 I took my time torquing them and used loctite, torqued to 110 and no issues.

Are you changing both CVs or just the torn one? I was going to change mine but they were good and I did the Warn install so they are kind of frozen in time except when I lock them in. Get ready for a fight on the end links. They are made out of unobtanium or something.

I have 265/70r16 on stock rims. I have 1" spacers to keep them off my struts and I have about a finger width (which is plenty) I run Warns and with 1" chevy spacers (I had on the shelf) I can put on my stock center caps with no mods. I relocated the inner splash guard forward like 1.25"-1.5" and took a angle grinder and thin cutoff wheel to the offending bumper corner, I took my time measuring and it looks stock. I also trimmed the lips on my mud flaps and they clear. I can wheel or bounce in reverse and get no rubbing. I have 2.5+ in front but that should make little difference. The rear you will have miles of room until you start getting crazy with sfd in addition to lift and it starts shortening your wheelbase.

Over Burden

I rotated my tires and pulled the driver side wheel spacer and Warn apart to tighten a loose bearing and retorqued everything. In what may be a record 45minutes start to finish for me by myself. And the 4wd still worked when I got done! Ha No more wheel bearing wobble though. Wish I had just done it right last time I was in there.... I could have had my feet propped up eating a sammich instead of hustling to get my truck together for a long work trip this week.

So, we are getting a tow hitch and making our own front tow points to use in conjunction with (a non debilitated friend) and a recovery strap? Or can you leave us a link to your next TOW job?

Do that or use well fluffed vinyl paint. It all feels itchy vs stock. I have used vinyl and had great luck though. Just gotta fluff. Spray. Then vacuum.

Drive fast

What is it?

I use my receiver on the rear. I had a bull bar on a truck before, I hit a deer and it destroyed my bumper and grill then I bent it back with a tiny tow strap and gave it away. They are flimsy junk. You could make a tow point on each side with some fabrication that would be better than the stock holes. I would even mess with the rear though, just get a towing hitch.

I saw that coming, your rearend has been slowing creeping forwards from your update pics. Going to build longer arms or go with it?

Welcome. Congrats on new rig.

Everybody in Colorado has that many stickers.... I think, but I've never left this county just of the three people from Colorado that got lost here they all had stickers like that. haha It should have an adjustment if its just slack in the cable. Could need pads or shoes though. On a side note of the 20 vehicles I've owned since my wife and I got married 4 years ago many were manuals.... maybe 3 had functional e-brakes. I draw the e-brake short stick in life every time, I used to hand the valets my truck keys and a brick if it was a hilly parking lot.

I would be terrified to drive a SFD lifted R50 on stock coils. Mine was like a swaying land barge before. It still dives more than I like when panic braking wish there were heavier duty struts available reasonably.

Wild. Can you modify another makes PCV ? I used to have dozens of all different sizes spring strength and different elbows. I took apart the vent breathers and put PCV valves in them. For a little bling.

Bad gas? Kind of sounds like CAT is stopping up from oil consumption or bad fuel.

Our Pathys are twins other than the 3.3 and 3.5 love the silver R50's You can just drill 3 new holes per side about 40mm in front of the old ones and pull your inner liner up and remount. I did mine (twice) more is better lol. Btw what is a chillkoot, is that a Canadian Chiclet?

Just to verify, you did the upper and lower bushings on the rearend yourself so you know it was actually done and torqued properly? If a shop did it they may have done uppers only or lowers only. You may want to check each bushing one by one again and retorque. Could also be a faulty rear shock causing some similar symptoms.

I'm planning on doing my exhaust soon, try to get as Z esque as possible.

In extreme cases where it was blow or go I've put a quart of diesel in the oil and let it run through a full heat cycle, shut it off did it again and revved until ticking cleared (with no load) then changed the oil drove it a hundred miles or so and changed it again.

Saurkraut Salad

My 01 has the same clips and stuff but they are bolted in the floor of the cargo area. I didn't use them one time and I went around a curve and heard my daughter giggling uncontrolably I looked back and the seat was almost on its side. not good! now I put her in the middle and use all three rear seatbelts and the clip, like I can grab the seat and shake it and the Pathy rocks.

salad fork

3.5 FTW Also I'm glad XPLORX4 caught my gear ratio mistake earlier. I def have 4.36 gears and 32's not 3.36 it's stamped right on my firewall. Wish i had the 4.6 for towing but DD I don't notice the tires and in 4Low i could get out and walk beside it so no torque issues there.

Yeah, knock sensor relocation is the way to go on those. Your probably not too far from me, I'm in the far western part of KY.