LittleFR

A wire brush and electric contact cleaner can go a long ways. Just loosen the nuts first and go to town. It may not fix it but it can't hurt. Seems silly to go into a hard winter with a truck that could strand you.

Haha yeah. A well built piece of rusty iron with 30years of quirks parked next to a brand new plastic shiny turd wagon.

I hit a deer with a bull bar once... It totally destroyed the front end of my truck. If I hadn't had the push bar it would have maybe just got a headlight and grill. If it's not a heavy duty bumper modified off an XJ or something... I would just run it stock. I will never buy a brushguard or bull bar again, waste of money. Congrats on getting the pathy though!! Wish I had found a manual as nice as my auto.

That's just flat out awesome! That would be a huge honor.

I didn't even know the 3.3 was an option in 2002. That's kind of a game changer on what advice you need...

Could be a couple things. MAF Fuel psi regulator. There's also a fuel distributor hose thingy a member just had to change that fixed his truck. Fuel Dampener (that's what it's called) http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/42521-randomly-dying/page-2 Could also be stretched timing belt.

Mine started with Warns and step bars... Then I needed more.

Just come to Kentucky. The only inspection is a VIN match check, and that's only if you bought it out of state. Otherwise you walk in with ins card, the title and the old license plate. However if it hasn't been plated lately then no plate required. Similar process to get a a rebuilt title. No smog no brakes nothing... You can actually trailer it to courthouse if you bought it out of state with or without an engine.

Love it. Good luck stopping at the spacers...

If the search function was easier to use I'd say just do a search but your literally better off to google it then let google take you back to an NPORA thread. There have been several makers of them over the years, actually a guy just had a full set of them in parts for sale. Fleury sells them I believe. I think he even has a missing link and skid plate combo in the works. On the other hand making a missing link and skid plate was easier for me than it was to work the hours to pay for prefab ones.

Rich kid, wish I could afford Bud Light. Running stock springs?

Pinky fingers grow big in Arizona! (and from different parts of the hand) Good thing you caught it. Hope that fixes the troubles. Welcome.

Judging by the reviews it looks like a quality piece. I will consider one when I need a filter. These things breath plenty good so I wouldn't expect any power or mileage. I like that it's non oiled, I wouldn't run a KnN oiled air filter on a push mower.

. Nah. They only make Medium Duty for the rear in OME. Otherwise they would probably never sell a medium duty again lol. I wouldn't have bought them. But the fronts have light duty medium and heavy which has a scale for how much lift you get and how heavy your bumper, winch etc.

With his OME's I'm not sure which duty in the front plus his 1.5" spacers (I'm not sure if he meant the spacer is a 1" block for 1.5" or 1.5" for 2" of actual lift) either way he's between 2.25 and 2.75 overall lift in the front. I have Moog front springs (which took out the stock sag + maybe 1/4") and 2" front spacers for 2.5" + So right around 2.5-2.75 The rear doesn't matter you can go high enough to match a SFD and AC coils if you want. The front is all that matters. 2.5" is really the highest you can go without SFD and not break a CV if you get it in a bind. 2.75 is Total Max and you gotta be careful at full droop wheeling and 3" is just going to break CVs all day and is actually dangerous and difficult to even get under the truck. People have done it but all I've seen backed down to just coil lift or smaller spacers. AC coils and spring packers can cause their own issues with top out... It's just my personal opinion but I would never recommend anybody go over 2.75" (2.5" really if they wheel hard) and I wouldn't suggest anybody consider a lift without lockout hubs. EDIT: Chilkoot is running 3" lift on R50 without SFD. Maybe he will chime in. My CVs bind as it is maybe he's luckier or knows a trick to wheeling with it.

What happens if you come to a stop with the E-Brake and shift with the E-brake and not the foot brake pulling vacuum?

Your fan clutch has got to be bad. I just went out and tapped my fan with the engine cold and it spun like another half inch on its own and spins free either direction. Also I have 2 cats directly after manifolds and then an O2 sensor and 2 more cats. So 2 per bank. Autozone or advance will scan codes for free. Most shops will but not all and the dealer will want like $40. The CATs will be a huge PITA so I would do that as last resort, if it's burning oil that's probably your culprit, if it's leaking oil it's probably not. First if would code scan (free) fix fan clutch because you know it's bad ($60) then fuel filter ($12) and finally trans drain fill (6 qrts Nissan Transmatic D at dealer $45) if it still had troubles I would look into MAF (I'll give you a Maxima one with free shipping) but u have to do a MAF relearn.

Those holes would probably howl like crazy going down the highway. If you could split a piece of plastic conduit and weatherstrip seal it down or glue it down. You could split a conduit cap and just use a screw it in to fix it on. They you could remove it to run auxiliary wiring. http://www.instructables.com/community/Cutting-PVC-Pipe-Lengthwise-for-guttering/ Here's a great tip to get a clean cut lengthwise on PVC pipe. The second post.

I need to change out my fuel filter too. I bet it's full of rust from my Rusty gas tank. What's the difference with the maxima Maf? I have the vg30 so I know it's narrower in the opening. So the fuel hose size is 5/16th? I'll pick up some after work. The stock hose is 5/16th or the metric equivalent, I just measured my cut piece to be sure. You can use 3/8 but it's not snug at all on the filter. Be sure to get 4 extra hose clamps, I destroyed one and salvaged one that I will probably have to cut off next time. And get a all steel fuel filter (and put tape on it lol) if you don't break the filter bracket. They have metal filters with a plastic insert and they will shatter. The Maxima MAF on the 01-02 is supposed to be a direct swap even though it's a 5 pin not a 4. Supposedly it is a direct swap and $200 cheaper. But you have to have a scan tool and relearn the MAF if your luck sucks like mine.... about 70% of people have no issues I rolled the dice and had issues. I changed them because my truck was running weak and shuddered a bit. No codes nothing most people would even notice. My fuel filter looked horrible when I blew it out backwards. And with the stock MAF installed runs like I remember it should when I bought her.

If it leaks on synthetic switch back to conventional. The molecules in synthetic are smaller and can leak easier, I had a Ford truck that never leaked a drop till I put synthetic in it.. Ran conventional two changes and it quit again. Do a flush and fill on trans, pulling the dipstick isn't a real indicator of the oil condition, mine looked cherry red on the dip... When I changed it, it looked like burnt cylinder oil. If you jack up the front you can get dang near 6 quarts out. This helps shifting and trans life. Check your fan clutch as previously stated. Check for codes, you may consider checking the CAT as well. That would cause power loss. Change your fuel filter ASAP. I see tons of people on here with shifting issues and low power and it's just the fuel filter. Mine caused a shudder at cruising speed. Change your air filter when you do the fuel. Report back with your findings. Good luck.

The harsh bang is the bump stops hitting on rear, they are unforgiving... Mine would jar your teeth when I pulled a lawnmower trailer. The MOOG replacements in the front were rated just a tad higher than stock I believe. Def a thicker coil and fixed my sag even though the coil was a 1/2" shorter than stock. If your bottoming out shocks probably won't fix that completely without springs. I would run OME struts or the KYBs. I like the KYBs for the price and ride quality. They only come in the standard KYB for fronts but you can get mono tube or gas adjust in rear, stiffer is better. Once you get your suspension in order. I recommend installing a missing link, it helped my cornering tremendously.

I changed my fuel filter today, I ordered the K and N because it was all steel and on sale cheaper than WIX. Turns out it was a smaller diameter than stock, wish I had just wrapped it with electrical tape before I started. I stripped out one hose clamp and went back with a 5/16 clamp so much easier!! I blew the filter out backwards, it looked terrible the PO must have kept this truck below an 1/8th tank at all times and mixed sand and rust with the gas every third fill up. Changed the MAF to a Maxima MAF... Then changed it back, truck would not run and I had to drive to town so instead of trying to relearn new MAF I just put the old one in, turned out the fuel filter was the source of my power loss and shudder anyways. I have a Maxima MAF that will make your truck not run for sale for a dollar now.

The hoods on our trucks stick up a lot higher than a jeeps... Thank you Nissans oddly shaped engines and are loads longer... Thanks again Nissan. I think they would be less effective than on something say a Sami, Jeep or the like. I like the looks and they undeniably help on short nosed vehicles... But they would need to stick out awkwardly to clear a Pathy hood and I don't think it would look right. Just my opinion, I'd mock up a set with just rope and some antenna magnets and see what your final decision is.

Your at the same height as me... (The max without SFD) The main thing is to run Manual Hubs to save the CV joints on highway driving. Next I recommend jacking up your frame and getting a feel for the extent of your CV binding at full droop. Mine binds at full droop but will still rotate by hand... So at full droop I don't want to flog on the throttle and snap a CV. And if you break a CV unlock the hubs and go drive home. My truck aligned perfectly with a 1.75 degree camber bolt mounted in the top hole. No control arm swap necessary, that's a huge thing on Suzukis (SX4's) and it seems like CRVs from what I've seen so the mechanic may just have not been overly familiar with the Nissans.

And you can use a big box end wrench turned properly for a cheater pipe, breaker bar... Wear gloves it can smoke your knuckles. I super glued a bolt to a rubber hose to start it under the dash of a car this week. Greased the threads... Started it and broke the glue then 15 swivels wrapped in tape to keep them stiff. Also I had to start a paper thin jam but with a deep well, I put electrical tape on the lip 3 layers thick, wedged the jam but in against the pavement. Started it. Pulled off the deep well removed the tape and torqued it down. I want to buy a long flexible set of screwdrivers on a coil.