LittleFR

Built and installed a missing link. Also called 'Jacobs Link' patent pending lol. I used a sign post from scrap pile and cut it with a torch. Then ground it smooth. Painted it black. Seems to have stiffened up handling a bunch.

I just installed my "Jacobs Link" with skid plate mounts. Right on, why did I not do that the day I got my R50. Literally took me 5 minutes to measure and 5 minutes to make.... granted i used a torch.

Ordered maxima MAF and new fuel filter. Read that it took 30min to change MAF, pulled mine for kicks... It took longer to pop the hood. Maybe they meant to change the tube and all.

Also check valve covers and PCV for any leaks. Could be something venting/smoking and coming in ducts.

Welcome. Maybe you can post a question in your year model forum and get help from folks knowledgeable in your model. I've seen threads on many engine swaps, even LS and 4.3 Vortec swaps and tons of info on interchangeable trans units. Slow down, use the search and good luck. Frank

You should have been able to just unscrew the three screws for the splash guard and drilled 3 holes to move them forwards a 1.25" or so and kept them. That's what I did. I did trim the front bumper a smudge with angle grinder though. And gutted the stiffeners on my back mud flap but they did stay. But your tires may be taller. I didn't want to lose the flaps totally. Because I removed the steps so my paint would have nothing to slow the rocks.

I don't believe they are bumpstops. Just dust covers to keep dirt out of strut seal. Mine were totally rotten (I was the first person to break down the struts at 115k). I just taped mine back up and slipped em on for looks. Is it possible your strut is going down and let it over compress too rapidly? It seems odd the way it popped out, people run spring packers and it doesn't cause over spring compression wheeling that I've seen. The bearing lets the strut twist but it shouldn't have unloaded the spring unless the shop waaaay over compressed it with a hydraulic press. When I did my springs I wished it had more of a lip on the bottom but I didn't weld or bolt in a hold strap. I just put heat wrap on the spring for a little less slippery surface. Hope you figure it out, maybe subframe connectors/stiffeners will do the trick.

Looking very good. I wouldn't have thought the black on silver would have came together so nicely. The manual hubs make the steering better, it coasts better. The first time I drove mine in 2wd it was like a totally different vehicle. I put 1" spacers on all 4. Still sling rocks pretty good. I like your bug out gear.

My end links did that to me. I had sway bar bushings too but didn't change them because I didn't need them. Also once I had to re torque a wheel bearing, but sounds like your good there. Also I had a wheel that kept chucking weights off.. I took it to a shop that finally had the right weights for my wheels and a shop tech smart enough to put them on. I jacked up my rearend against all recommendations and ran it up to 50 (the speed I had most issues and checked for driveshaft vibe and rotated tires till I found the wheel giving me fits. I had a tire with a bad bead, before, I got new alignment lift and tires and I was ready to scream. I hope you get it all figured out.

I didn't understand the concept exactly but would have liked to have seen more help getting accurate numbers out of this. We pretty well all know the reliability of Nissan though barring a few weak links most have already addressed.

Welcome. I'm an R50 fanatic, there's something wrong with the WD nuts. Haha J/K glad you joined, should find any information you seek here. I did my whole build off of tidbits I picked up here.

The exhaust tip extends all the way to the rear of the R50 the tip goes clear to the hitch welded all the way. Haha, it really doesn't drone once the TQ lockup hits, kind of finds a sweet spot. Plus I have 32" MTs... It's def not louder than the tires. The truck has good sound dampening. With the windows up I don't hear the tires either.

http://www.rocketracingwheels.com/rocket-booster-6-hyper-shot/p53 That's the closest thing I found but no 15's/16's The picture you posted sure looks like a Moto Metal center cap, but I didn't see any moots that matched. I like the black Moto Metal 951's I had a set in 16's very affordable and sturdy.

New exhaust!!! New Y pipe then a 1-1 flowmaster 40 2" out to a 2.5" tip in stock location. Sounds like a rumbley little 350Z now. Not too much drone or cackle just a nice low growl until you crack Into It and it gets good and loud.

Lot of threads on this topic. I have actual 2" front spacers, so 2.5"+ of lift in front with Moog Stock springs. And OME rear springs with 1.5" spacers. It's a good combo, I recommend not going any higher and getting manual hubs ASAP. Also upgrade your shocks and struts whilst your at it. Don't forgetting replace away bar end links and get a set of camber adjustment bolts. Soooo.... If you do it yourself and shop budget mined your looking at $500-$750 depending on what you need to lift it right, even with just spacers. You can get that down by using Mile Markers not Warns, finding used OMEs etc...

I wouldn't lower a 4x4 lot of extra work for nothing. I bet if you got it running you could trade it for a much cleaner 2wd. Or maybe before it runs.

Yeah meats-tires. Lol. Or shoes I guess depends on where your from. I did the 265/70r16 Goodyear Duratrac MTs. I had to trim front bumper, mud flap and relocate inner liner. 33's you would have to lose the mud flap, do some major trimming and move inner liner, no big deal, like 10min of work if that's what you want. I was racking my brain as to why your truck didn't seem lifted much. It's the step bars!! Lol best thing I ever did was junk mine. If your my height or my wife's you can't actually use them plus 2" visual lift and sooo much cleaner. I took one off very cautiously, stepped back and loved it then zipped the other side off and started getting compliments on the lift. Man you must drive a lot, these tires should last me 40k miles. That's like 5 years for me.

Today I debated on selling Pathy to my brother in-law.... Because he's in need of a reliable SUV. But then I found him a sweet deal on a Rodeo... And I almost considered buying it too but I gave him the specs and guys phone number and drove home in the Pathy. I hope he gets it and I can spend his money modding it to my equal and go wheeling.

My end links went bad and I had some strange handling issues. Replaced them and it handled good again. I guess AC's would mask some of it but I would be leery. Plus if I'm off road or jack up the frame I can get enough flex to break a CV if I got froggy. I just don't have the up travel you might gain from no sway bar.

The same guy made my spacer lift. I had to drill out my strut mounts to fit the upgraded hardware but no big deal. He's located in Illinois, really nice and knowledgeable fellow. I went with 2" spacers up front for 2.5" lift and everytime I called with a question he was like oh crap 'custom guy again' BTW at full droop my CVS do bind but I can still turn them by hand. I did the fronts and let the OME rears and fronts settle a couple weeks then ordered the rears. I wanted the rear .5"-.75" higher than the front. Looking good. Going to upgrade meats? I had a harder time with my sway bar end links than compressing the spring and doing the rest of the lift.

I would be more worried about getting killed trying to pass a kid on a bicycle. There's only two gear options for the R50 without a total diff swap. Most are gutless wonders with 33's much less 35's.

Haha I love the PassRodeos. I was in the process of buying a 2000 with low mileage in mint condition. Had a price worked out and money in hand and a good friend was down and out and needed it bad so I let them buy it. I got my R50 a week later and the still drive the PassRodeo. So it all worked out. I still want one and still have a lot of knowledge In my head about them from researching it. I had the pleasure of flushing and filling his trans. What a terrible design. West KY is the land of the Isuzu. It's ridiculous how many are on the road in varying conditions.

If the gas is really that old ie: no ethanol. Add two bottles of heet fresh gas and fire it up. I found a 5hp Briggs that had been in a barn for 12 years. It started on the second pull on the original gas. On my LTD I dropped a fuel line and let the fuel pump pump it into a plastic tote, just had to keep cycling the key.

I can honestly say I've only seen one other R50 here, it was an Infiniti and have never seen a WD. Tons of newer XTerras though in my area. Tons of PassRodeos in my area.

No trimming, I've only owned one set of spacers ever I had to trim and they were 1" on a 1990 Yota with crappy aftermarket wheels. I'm not telling you what to do... But I have shattered a 2" spacer b4 by just running them down and torquing. I almost died in my Monte, but I had wheels coming and played fast and loose. Use loctite red, start each lug hand tight (I grease the outside of the acorns) tighten in 10lb increments. It's a pain but with lug centric spacers you don't want any mistakes. Do your star pattern and torque to 110. I usually jam a screwdriver in the air vents of the rotor to hold it. On the other hand doing everything proper I have put 100k+ miles on spacers and checked torque on one or two but have had no issues.