LittleFR

If fuel is high I run 87 because I'm poor. In the winter I often run 87 because my only performance issues seem to be in heat and when towing. If I can get it cheap I run 93 and often mix 87 in at the next half a tank. I think it's $2.25 a gallon now for 87 and 2.55 for 93. I can get ethanol free 90 for 3.25 but don't because I'm poor. Cheap gas does effect my mileage a hair but not hugely.

My internet must be slow it took me almost a full second everytime and that's not possible. Lol

Yeah. Put the stock MAF back in because the Maxima one hated my truck and I didn't have the time to relearn it before I had to drive to work again. And after the flush and stuff I let it warm up in cold weather it works. When it's freezing I can make it flare when cold but I don't. When it's warm out or been parked less than several hours no issue. When it's cold I read something about reduced line pressure, idk if it's true but I do know your Overdrive and Torque converter lockup won't work until you reach operating temperature. That drove me nuts when it got cold till I read my owners manual.

They don't make them anymore? No junkyards with them? I do love Red and Green, pretty sure he would replace the engine with a team of squirrels in a cage made of tree bark and put a dog behind them.

I use salt mixed with Dawn instead of the GOJO the fine Italian pumice. But I also have so many cracks and callouses my hands just flat out don't get clean. There are stains and scars and I just don't care anymore. I have been known to put lotion on my hands before working with grease or gear oil if I had a funeral to attend. Makes getting your hands totally clean by washing a lead pipe cinche. And I have various types of rubber gloves for the sewer plant and for lab tech work that I hate wearing but always wish I had after a job.

I had to do a total relearn to run maxima MAF. So I put stock MAF back in and cleaned TB. Changed fuel filter and flushed trans fluid and went back with OEM fluid. And my issues went totally away except when it's cold at first startup. I don't fire it up when it's cold and haven't felt 2-3 flare in ages.

Get out the ol welder and giver hell.

I was going to chime in and ask about t case if it had manual hubs and auto mode in t case? You can tank one quick with unlocked hubs in auto mode.

Pull out the strut and weld in a plate with the right hole pattern.

My local dealership has always honored my recalls old or new....

THIS Has been the standard since the dawn of time. I always check and make sure the old gasket came off with the filter and that's it. Mounting surface should never have been dirty to start with.

What ever came of this?

SFD will save CVs. At full droop my CVs bind, they do fine until then but not an ideal situation wheeling in the rough. Whatch on your spacers. 1" gets 1.5" 1.5" is like 2"ish of lift 2'' fronts get 2.5"-2.75" Rears are whatever lift the size is. I did rear springs and front springs and spacers. Then let her settle a couple weeks and ordered a rear spacer to get .5" of rake in the rear. I can't stand the front being up.

I see your in Kentucky. Welcome. If I were DT I wouldn't refund it either. I've never bought a header that didn't take a little heat and beat at the least. And in a few cases home-made gaskets to even get a seal. The shop should have put a torch on it and straightened the flange or cut and welded a new one. That would have maintained the integrity of the flange. It sucks but at least it's fixed.

At least the thermostat stuck open not closed. I hate the factory steps, they belong in the junk pile anyways. Looks like a great buy and a nice truck.

If you can afford it I would at least get stock MOOG coils for it. I know your springs are sagged. The rear shocks are the easiest thing on earth to change. Just oil the bolts in advance. Lay a piece of cardboard behind the diff and change them, nothing to it. I like KYB shocks. The front is a whole nother story. It's so much work that's why I recommended springs at this time. Plenty of walk throughs on here for this job. One side note I will add is that when you unbolt the top of the strut nuts on driver side.... Have a long skinny magnet handy. And you don't have to remove the intake at all. Just undo the one or two nuts (10mm?) holding that bracket in there (think its a fuse box but you will see it) and carefully bend it inboard just a hair and you can get an extension and socket on all three nuts. Mark your struts with paint before you take them off. The top cup must face the correct direction. I made this mistake and one side of my truck was 2" higher than the other. And I got to redo it. Also be careful not to pull your CVs apart. If your compressing the springs yourself I recommend 3 manual compressors. Wear eye protection and gloves. Also compress it on a carpet or something soft, if you drop it on concrete compressed it will go off like a bomb. This an excellent time to add a lift.

Just drive the damn thing. It's a pathfinder. It'll make it. We gave you all the advice there is. You own the single most uncustomizable SUV performance wise ever built unless you make more money than anybody that drove a Nissan makes.

I use a quart of dex merc 3 in oil on anything I buy and let it cycle through a full couple heat cycles under no load and change it with synthetic. I use diesel if lifters are tapping and rev it till it quits or blows. But I really don't trust seafoam or diesel under a load to coat bearings.

So you shook tire up and down and it is for sure the wheel bearing? You could try just greasing and tightening them a tad. It fixed my driver side and was easy. I used a screwdriver and a light touch on a hammer. The stock hubs are just a chunk of steel, I don't think you could break one without a high speed come apart. The vibe could be a number of things, end links and a bad tire come to mind.

I didn't torque mine. I just got them to Frank lbs which was however tight Little Frank could get them with a 3/8 ratchet. Unless you constantly drive in water they shouldn't need grease more than every 10k. I really would check those sway bar bushings out good with end links detached. My town was an island once. It flooded and there was no way in or out for 2 weeks. People were boating to work.

Cleaned out my soured work uniforms out of the back seat. Bought a gas getter cavalier for $500 that needed wheel bearings and haven't driven The Pathy to work in a couple weeks. It was smelling ripe!

Manual hubs can help mileage. You should be fine. I would take mine anywhere in North America. These engines to rev oddly high at 75+ mine seems to get peak mileage at 65.

Mine had like an inch of slack (3.5 though) I tightened them and the only thing that changed was I don't have to put my foot to the floor to get to 55. It took me a few days to stop peeling out at stop signs.

Not worth it? Whom said that? Of course it's worth it. I would run manual hubs on a bone stock R50. If you lift it at all it's almost mandatory. The benefits are improved fuel economy. Better handling. Coasts better. Saves CV shafts. And if you break a CV you can drive it. The two negatives I've found are. You have to lock them in if you get hung up suddenly. You cannot use Auto mode on 4wd unless the hubs are locked in or your transfer case will explode. Manual hubs are step two after step one of buying an R50.