LittleFR

The clicking makes me think bushings are letting the whole axle shift fore and aft. I would rotate that tire to the left rear and left to right (watching wear on both) to make for sure you eliminate the tire itself out of the equation then delve further into the suspension.

I used Vinyl paint by duplicolor I believe on my 1970 F100 Mats and Carpet. That was 5years ago they still look new. I vacuumed the fire out of them... then fluffed it with a comb, sprayed it then fluffed it then sprayed again and vacuumed it and they are still jet black, not too stiff and look great. I had the Vinyl paint to coat the cab roof and I've had to recoat it once but it was just to hid some cracking from underneath.

You don't sandblast auto body panels... It generates too much heat and they warp. You can soda blast or walnut shell them. Also Chem strip. You could grind it out but that would be hideous unless your good at body work. I usually peck around with a hammer and wire wheel my rust to find the end then cut it out and weld in a patch in the spot weld all the way around and pat it with a wet rag fashion, grind it, Tin it, lead it in, deactivate the tin, then seal it and glaze it with glass or a paper thin layer of filler. It's just whatever you feel comfortable with. Lead bodywork takes practice... Then more practice, but once you fixed a spot you won't ever have to practice there again. Welcome btw!! I too own a 2001 Pathy. Mine has a tad of rust where it was in a fender bender... I'm probably going to cheat and take it to a friend because work has been crazy lately. Good luck. Hope you enjoy the forum.

I used to pick up a hitch hiker about every Tuesday after work. There was a prison on my way home and they released the paroled prisoners at the same time on Tuesday my shift ended. Honestly %95 of all the hundreds of hitch hikers I've picked up over the years were super respectful and thankful to be given a ride. My step dad picked up a coworker of mine years ago and (coworker) still talks about how talking to my stepfather and getting a ride out of a bad situation may have turned his whole life around. Small world. My rule is if they are standing there, thumb out, wave and hammer down. If they are walking then you know they want to get where they are going, with or without you.... A ride would just be a plus.

Scott Hanselman

Mine will hold third until 85+ if held to the floor. It should never kickdown to second going that fast. I have no idea on 0-60. I just drive mine and want it to last. Did he use genuine nissan fluid? It's worth the extra .75 cents.

You can use spray rust busters and make a tube or buy the frame kit to coat the inside I pressure wash all I can. Flood the tubing of the frame then let it dry a couple days and take rust reformer with a straw and washer fluid tube and go nuts.

I run Goodyear Duratracs. 265/70r16 they are MTs I had to trim and lift, but every R50 is different. I like the Generals much better than the BFGs for the money. I like the Firestone Winterforce too and if I wanted MS AT 265/70r16 I would buy them again for any vehicle I've had 3 sets of them. The General Grabber Arctic is on sale too... I think I'm just biased to MTs and MnS winter tires. I hate puny tread for our diverse weather and country roads. http://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireResultsServlet?tab=ALL&width=265%2F&ratio=70&diameter=16&zipCode=&forFilters=false&sortFlag=true&sortString=Price&sortHighLow=lowToHigh&filtering=true#1

I plan on getting an XTerra ProX4 Manual to replace my R50. That's several years away and I don't need 3rd row. My wife has a 2015 Toyota Venza AWD XLE, I love that thing and it's amazing in snow. I would rather drive an awd Safari van than something like the Armada, they are so hideous but that's just me. We were driving a Toyota Matrix with ice racing tires and loved it but it was cracking 200k miles, prior to that an 08 Grand Prix but it wasn't working with car seats.

Drop the air out of front tires too.

Checked for rat nest in air filter housing? I have seen that cause your exact issues. A bottle of Heet sounds like would be better than injector cleaner for that situation. Probably got water in the tank from condensation.

They can do a pressure test on the radiator cap or run it and do an air bubble check. Either way the leak has to be fixed for them to work. I would say the overheating probably put you into some kind of limp mode and that was the revving issue. It is probably not engine damage but overheating can do a lot of damage. I don't remember where the H is on my temp gauge I will look in morning.

Not much you can do until you find the leak and fix it. Then your going to have to refill and drive it to see if you have a blown head gasket.

Try running a direct ground from the trailer to the truck. The trailer lights may be getting a crappy ground through the ball (if the ground wire isn't solid to the lights)

I wouldn't go past 2.5" with coil or spacer lift. I have 2.5-2.75 and that's the ragged edge.

With 2" spacer to get 2.5" lift front and fresh moog stock springs. In the rear with medium duty OME you need a 1.5" spacer to get a .5" up in the rear vs front (that's what I run) on the 2001 on the passenger side you either gotta grind the tab or the spacer to clear a factory welded tab (when running the spacer on bottom of spring, as you should)

I pulled my inlaws 3/4 ton Avalanche ten miles home. It was an 8.1 liter 4x4 (the crankshaft position sensor went out) My pathy was not happy, I thought I was going to have to use 4 low to make it up the hills.

4th trans? That blows my mind. Sounds like the TC was never cut and cleaned and the trans cooler wasn't flushed. I always replace or get a cut and clean on TC. I don't know about the total engine swap but allegedly you can get one out of a 350z and do a computer swap.

You can make shock extensions if you want... It's not hard.

Your almost further ahead to go ahead and swap springs while your at it. $60 stockers from Moog. (It will fix the sag, they are heavier but not by much) The struts won't lift you they just dampen. I had to cut my sway bar links off with an angle grinder, it was the worst part of the job. Wearing ear plugs I still got a migraine I don't know what kind of steel it is but they should build tanks out of it. My isolator was all better than the non oem parts I bought. I only changed the swivel bearing. Torque everything then lower. I believe the camber bolts call for 90-95lbs The top strut bolts only needed like 18 lbs on mine to start denting the plate. I used big washers on them the second time. Don't hang off your cv shafts while your doing the swap or you will slip them apart by accident. Torque your wheels, on the ground! Never torque them in the air and just take off. I've seen too many lugs back off from that. And also everybody takes off their intake and all that to get to the driver side. I literally unhooked 2 plugs took out 2 bolts and just bent that piece out of my way and put it back when I was done.

I have 265/70r16's drive extremely conservatively have Warns and get a whopping 14.7 mpg with premium, regular service and no CEL. My truck has a 20gallon tank and I'm thrilled to death to get 250miles. My hats off to you if you get 1000km and don't have to stop 3times to fill up.

I'll sell you some OME extra cheap that are new in the box. With 2" spacers you get a hair over 3" If you can find the Moog # for the Jeep you could go off their master lift and find the correct length and spring rate. That's what I did on my Monte. It took Station Wagon springs to clear my 275 Mickey Ts.

I had Michelins on my r50 and after a few thousand miles got over 3oz out of balance. I thought I had major issues. I'm wondering about your struts top mounting bracket, are both of the arrows facing properly, and have you inspected anti sway bar end links...

Washing machine or dryer sheetmetal is the easiest stuff I've used for patching. I wouldn't soak it in oil. Get the rust stopped and epoxy it and use bedliner or undercoating if u need to be cheap. At least a good anti rust paint and some hard enamel paint.

I know this doesn't help you... But in my Monte Carlo I have low speed on a thermostat and High on a toggle under the dash.