Alkorahil

I would wonder about the proper mix as well, and it is an old radiator witha plastic tank so it couldhave failed from age.

With these symptoms I would look at: 1) The Heater hose on the firewall with the watercock and valves is notorious for going bad and causing a no heater problem. The part number for your vehicle should be: 92408-ZL90B HOSE ASMY 2) low coollant level - With the vehicle cold, such as in the morning before driving it anywhere. Turn the heater on full, open the radiator cap, start the vehicle and see how low the coolant level is in the radiator. 3) thermostat stuck open. 4) bad radiator cap

X7 on a good tune up. As to aftermarket cruise control.....it is probably a 'universal' kit, and that sounds like it would cause all sorts of headaches.

There really is one! Not making that up!

Dont forget the 2014 R52HV! (hybrid)

FUN FACT: Rob HATES Quest vans! V40 1992-98 V41 1999-03 V42 2004-10 E52 2011-14

Murano Z50 2003-08 Z51 2009-14

It could be a key/lockset issue may be the problem if the key is very worn out. You can also look at 1) shift lock solenoid not fully engaging/disengaging. 2) the shift lock cable being out of adjustment. The vehicle may not be 100% fully into P and it can also cause some symptoms like you describe. Wiggle the shifter forward when this happens and see if it lets you rotate and start. 3) broken brake pedal bumper for brake pedal switch 4) bad brake pedal switch (could be intermittant before it totaly dies) 5) brake pedal switch out of adjustment (it has an adjustment nut) Any or some/all of these can cause the symptoms you describe.

Agreed! A full Consult III or Consult IV will read ALL codes, engine, trans, airbag, etc. 5523Pathfinder and I get spoiled on having these things at our fingertips.

Yes it is the pin to mount to the frame rail. If you look on the inside of your frame rail near the steering box, there are two bolt threads in the front of the frame. Those are the threads for the dampner pin. You can see it in FAST section 481-001

Nissan is showing 5 of the pins by themselves left in the US at the moment. PART NUMBER: 48612-31G00 DESCRIPTION: PIN-STEERING DAMPNER $15.08 (Nissan List: $20.10) Take that part number to your local dealer and see if they can get it there. Shipping something like that from the US will cost more than the part does. $23.95 for priority mail for 6-10 days

Agreed! the stoppers are old anyways and ready to blow up on you, they tend to last about 12 years then explode, or so It wont hurt to eliminate that possibility.

Ok then do what aHardbody said! Probably is that simple!!! I am glad to hear that as well, the AC issue you originally described had me thinking 'replace ECU' would be the final answer to fixing it. Replace the rubber bumper for the brake switch at the same time. Here are the part numbers: 46512-H0101 RUBBER-STOPPER, BRAKE 46584-S0100 RUBBER-STOPPER, ASCD

Ok its the flat plate for where the fuel pump would be on the Z18 and Z20 motor. I jumped into the japan parts cataloge and found it for you. Here are the part numbers for that: 16420-E0100 PLATE-COVER 17099-85G00 GASKET FUEL 08120-8201E BOLT HEX QTY NEEDED: 3 These parts show still available from Nissan. The plate ships from Japan, 2-3 weeks for delivery. The bolts only come in packages of 5 from Nissan.

So.. AC comes on fine. Cruise control works fine, but cruise truns off when AC is turned on. When you have the cruise control on, and then turn on the AC system, the ECU wants to raise the RPM of the engine to keep the vehicle at the set MPH because the AC system creates a drag on the RPM of the motor. There is an input or sensor not giving input or proper input to the ECU, so it shuts the cruise control off. It may be a revolution sensor on the transmission or speed sensor on one of the wheels giving intermittent input. This will require a lot of troubleshooting. Is there a check engine light on as well? Can you have AC on and then engage the Cruise later?

Totally, 100% IMHO - A1-Cardone quality has gone down over the years, they have gotten too big. But I agree, it sounds like there may be something else going on here.

So the horn does work. That rules the alarm horn out as a malfunctioning part. If you still have the owners manual consult it for the alarm settings. It sounds like it has gone into passive mode.

Are you sure this plug is on the head itself and not the intake?

It does sound like this is your issue. It will come and go unexpectedly and flooring the pedal usually makes it go away, at least in my experiences with this. Many people have been able to make the problem happen while wiggling the wire with the engine running and determining it is the problem. This problem does not store codes in the ECU to read. OBD-1 isnt that smart!

Sounds like you figured it out.

I have seen maybe two or so fail with super-high NOX emissions from a clogged EGR.

Yes, yes very important!! 5523Pathfinder is right!

Check to make sure the vehicle has the proper amount of coolant in it. Make usre to check with the heater turned on. Do not remove the radiator cap with the vehicle hot. Check after it has been sitting for a long time, such as over night. If the coolant level is correct I would look at the thermostat being stuck open as your next culprit.