Alkorahil

I would add, the fuses on the fuse block for the radio would pop if there was anything you wired up wrong. That being said, check all your fuses, but specifically the one labelled 'METER'

Are you sure it isnt for the Hardbody truck? I have the bushwackers on my hardbody pickup and there is indeed a large notch for the fuel door.

You got that right!

Yes actually! on the most common type of weatherstrips that 'bulge out' line a double loop and are hollow inside you can do it! The older style ones you cant though.

I may be getting a new battery! And putting it in this evening. This morning it was a long weak crank to start up......but it was -5F last night and is a balmy 19F now. In Dallas, Tx. The battery is about 5-6 years old so it Is not totally surprising that it is getting time to replace. I just hate spending $.

Where in TX are you?

Front sensor bank 2 is.... Oxygen Sensor: Sensor 1, Bank 2 Nissan Part Number: 22691-0W003 R50 VG33E Production Dates: 10/95-07/02

Bank one is always the right side of the motor, bank 2 always the left. On a transverse engine it is more fun, B1 is the right of the motor, rear of the vehicle. B2 is the left side of the motor, front of the vehicle.

Agreed. A fork would be a nice thing to have when doing thse sort of things. IIRC they are not expensive.

Let us know what the fix ends up being!

Yes, that is correct.

Nissan Part Number: 23300-88G01R Description: STARTER ASSY $204.06 (NISSAN LIST: $299.29) plus CORE CHARGE: $60.00 (refunded when old starter is returned) Shipping about $14 for ground 3-5 day insured. Next day shipping $30 or so depending on zip code. Weight is 10 pounds. This part is still available from Nissan. It will take me 1-2 business days to get it from the regional warehouse.

From there oxygen sensor. you also have on the VG30i a dashpot on the throttle that might be stuck as it is winter time.

No injector pulse...hmmmm. ECU, Distributor or O2 Sensor sine we have ruled out coolant temp and throttle position switch already. Dont think it is a distributor issue - it would kick and buck and die on deceleration all randomly and would not start when it is cold. You are not getting any of that. Though your timing could be way--off have you check that as well? This leaves me thinking O2 sensor still. ECU would be the last thing I look at. All of these sensors feed information to the the ECU, if the ECU has all the inputs it sends a signal to the injectors to fire: Camshaft Position Sensor - engine speed and pistion position Mass Air Flow Sensor - Amount of intake air Engine Coolant Sensor - temp of coolant Heated Oxygen Sensor - density of oxygen in exhaust Throttle Position Sensor -throttle position Throttle Position Switch - throttle idle position Neutral Position Switch - neutral position Vehicle Speed Sensor - vehicle speed Ignition Switch - start signal Battery - batt voltage The amount of fuel injected from the fuel injector or the length of time the valve remains open is deterined by the ECM. the value is preset by engine operating conditions determined by input signals from both the camshaft position sensor and the mass air flow. The amount of fuel injection is compensated for to imporive engine performane under various operating condition as listed below: Fuel Increase During warm up When starting engine During acceleration Hot engine operation Fuel Decrease During deceleration Mixture feed back goes: ECM sends injection signal pulse to injector Injector releases fuel into combustion chamber. Engine combustion. O2 Sensor sends feedback to ECU. Repeat step 1

Align the punchmark on the base of the drive spindle with the oil hole on the oil pump. Install the oil pump and spndle. The drive spindle should be with the flat blade of the end of the spindle a few (about5) degrees off of parallel to the drive belts if installed correectly. If it is perpendicular it is off. Put piston No1 at TDC and set distributor at No.1 spark position.

It definately sounds like the starter has gone out based on the symptoms described!

Pav is correct! Fuel Effecient and Fuel Effecient Plus

I am not familiar with them.

That is a quick easy thing to do, Given the weather and rain you get there regularly doing so would be very useful! It will at least take one think off your mind to not worry about.

thanks, good to know!

Yes, my thoughts exactly. Nissan has replaced the guides and tentioners with newer versions to correct this issue. Here are the updated part numbers for the 4.0L for you: 13091-ZK00A CHAIN GUIDE, SLACK 13085-EA200 GUIDE-CHAIN, TENSION, UPPER 13085-EA210 GUIDE-CHAIN, TENTION, LOWER 13028-ZK01C CHAIN, TIMING, CAMSHAFT QTY NEEDED:2 13028-ZS00A CHAIN, TIMING, LOWER 13070-ZK01A TENSIONER, CHAIN, CAMSHAFT, RH 13070-ZK01B TENSIONER, CHAIN, CAMSHAFT, LH 13070-EA200 TENSIONER, TIMING

So how many hours did it take you do you think?

So it is temperature/time related. Starts fine when cold, will not restart after it is warmed up. First, try unplugging the IACV regulator when it will not start and see what happens, with it cold outside the IACV may be stuck/getting stuck. The IACV is essentially an electronic choke for your vehicle. If it is stuck that is why you can get it to fire up with starter fluid. If it still will not start you can probably rule that out as an issue. Next, do the same test with the throttle position switch. However, I am thinking this is an Engine Temperature Sensor and/or O2 Sensor issue. The ECU goes into closed loop and starts monitoring signals from these sensors after running for 6 mins or the vehicle engine temp is over 68F both of which fit your symptom description. After the vehicle cools down below 68F it will start for you because it is not monitoring the signals yet till it gets warmed again.

Are you refering to the plates in front and behind the crank sprocket? Those should just slide right off though an oil/dirt/gunk mix may have created a 'glue' like bond on them. A little brake cleaner or PB blaster might loosen that gunk up if that is the case.

Looks like it has all been covered here! Good job Perlninja on being cautious when you are not sure! Props for actually reading your owner's manual!! Anyone who has gone out in stuff like that can tell you that it can be deeper than it looks and you cant see drop offs well if you do not walk it first. Anything higher than the wheel hubs and you risk getting water into the breather hose(s) for the differential(s) especailly if you wade slow or stop. Running though a spot of water fast you are probably ok! Anything higher than the top of the tires or exhaust pipe and you are getting dangerously close to trouble! Going that high you need to have good door and rear hatch seals too our it will get wet inside!