mjotrainbrain

A regular change is no big deal (like drain the pain and fill back up the appropriate level), the issue is a flush which is at a higher pressure and can loosen up that accumulated junk.

There will be at the end of the year, Truck of the Year is handled by voting amongst the year's monthly winners. @YegorTheLlama hasn't won a month yet this year so if he or someone else were to submit this pic in an appropriate TotM nominations thread and won that month, the pic would be in the running for TotY.

I believe @hawairish has a thread with info on super-packing an LSD somewhere. You can make it super tight if you want.

I'd say your easiest solution would be to get an LSD from a Pathy with the right ratio and add more clutch material from any other LSD diff to make a good diff that'll easily fit in/match up with your rear end.

The only moving pieces on it should be the U-joints and slip joint, realistically the only part that should wear on it would be the U-joints which should be easy to check. It is not a "2-piece" style with the carrier bearing, that was only for the 2wd's I believe.

Going by an online backspacing calculator, looks like those wheels should give you about 3.5" of backspacing. In general, 3.75" is the magic number to clear the struts with bigger tires up front. Some people have cleared with up to 4.25" that I've seen, depending on tire width and such. In your case, with those wheels, your tires will be sticking out a tad more than the 3.75" backspacing would allow, so you're good there. To get another metric converted into a unit that's simpler, those tires are equivalent to a 33x10R16 (again going off an online calculator). Those are pretty narrow, so YMMV compared to what I'm about to say from my experience. With my R50 I had 3.75" backspace wheels (.25" more than you, so .25" further tucked in) and cleared 32x11.50R15 tires on the front strut with a bit of room to spare. In the rear however, with stock shocks and bumpstops, the tires interfered with the rear arch a fair bit. Doing rough math here, your tires will stick out 0.5" less than mine (taking into account the wheel backspacing and tire width difference), so I don't think that's enough of a difference for you to avoid the same rubbing issues I had. Frankly I don't think you're going to get around that while having enough backspacing to clear the struts up front. Best solution that I see is to just run that combo and plan to extend the rear bumpstop, either with an entirely different one from another vehicle, or more simply using a 2" thick by 3" diameter body lift spacer and a longer bolt to push the bumpstop down, thereby making it impossible for the tire to contact the arch. You can add some longer shocks out back to more than get back the articulation you're losing in uptravel. TL/DR: Yup, it'll clear the front struts just fine. Gonna rub the rear arches when flexing though.

In general I have heard good things about Gibson exhaust, they're very popular with 4Runners. I'm not sure what the sound is like on a Pathfinder (although there's probably YouTube videos, so you could find out), but I'm sure the build quality is good.

I wouldn't worry about it that much, any vehicle other than a big truck is going to get hurt by a deer real bad; does that stop people from sinking money into Corvettes and such? If you want the ultimate in deer protection get an F250 with a Ranch Hand bumper, otherwise just build the R50 as well as you can but understand that's more to improve it off-road and against minor traffic incidents than anything else.

It's been done and discussed, since the forum's built in search tool can be clunky I'd suggest putting "site:nissanpathfinders.net/forum EGR delete" into Google and going from there.

Moved from R50 section to WD21 section to match model year being discussed.

Maybe try both? Can't hurt...at least not until you want to get it off again!

I can't believe they loosen up even with loctite! I assume you were using the blue kind? If so, maybe this is a situation where it wouldn't be inappropriate to use red.

Sorry if I missed it, but what kind of nuts are they? May be worth giving nylock nuts a shot, not sure what the downsides of them may be though.

If there's that much rust visible (and same goes for by the flare), I'm sorry to say that it's likely a lot worse than you think. Once you get the mirror off whatever it was attached to may crumble and you may not be able to reinstall it, hard to know until it's too late. Personally I've had bad luck with POR15, but not sure that there's anything I'd recommend instead; that stuff is just so expensive! Found this video btw, seems helpful.

I believe Walker makes stock replacement exhausts pretty cheap, may be a decent option to get one of those and have a glass pack welded in place of the muffler. Should be fairly cheap. Probably some kind of regular steel that will rust again though.

Not sure what to recommend as far as a cat back, but I had a FloPro glass pack on my VQ with the resonators behind the cats removed and imo it sounded great. Are your pipes salvageable, ie you just want better sound, or is it damaged/rusted out and you figure as long as you're replacing you may as well upgrade?

Yikes, that's not good! Glad no carnage occurred.

The buttons did come with some stock, yes. Not sure if the appropriate wiring would be in there or not to add the buttons to yours.

New tools huh? Fun fun! Excited to see the small changes too, that's the kinda attention to detail that's gonna make your guy's SFD far better than those in the past, not to mention the unique design of it.

QX4 tail lights would require doing something about the reverse lights (at least for post facelift). I do really like how they look though.

Hey guys, just wanted to say it would be cool if everyone kept chill. It's late right now and I've been working all day, but in the morning I'll probably censor a potty word here or there. Just don't want to see this go south and get a bunch of people in trouble. Joshua, I'm in a a group chat that's been talking about this, seems like glass fog lights do exist. No idea what the correlation is to trim level, year, etc. May have to go to a local junkyard and poke around for glass ones. How bad was the wiring to add them by the way?

I like the plan with the headlights. Not sure off the top of my head what Euro style tail lights look like, but you've certainly got some options! Red accents will be nice, if careful not to overdo.

I gotta agree, non tinted taillights would probably look better, looks pretty good though otherwise! How much longer do you anticipate before it's "done"?

That's a sick photo! And fitting too, seeing as August's TotM theme is flex...hint hint!

That's the week after my spring break, but if it were close enough I'd likely be able to come. There's a fair number of off-road parks scattered around.