mjotrainbrain

Ok maybe not as on-topic as I had remembered, but may be useful info if you end up deciding the dome light doesn't supply enough power and you have to set up a dedicated circuit (but then you run into the issue of it not coming on when you unlock...maybe there's an extra fuse slot that's part of this circuit? Or perhaps you could run a separate circuit that's powered all the time but only activated by a low-power line from the dome light circuit via a transistor or something? Again I don't have a ton of knowledge of electronics so kinda shooting in the dark/brainstorming.).

Volts should be 12, but always good to double check. And yes, amps are good to check. There's actually a recent thread on a very similar topic, but about tapping into the cigarette lighter. May be useful to you. I'm no expert with electronics either (hence studying MECHANICAL engineering), so it's always a bit of an adventure.

Oh yeah, forgot you wanted to add reverse lights too. Also, good point on the lights not coming on prior to opening the doors, that would be a nice feature... As far as tapping into the dome light, I'd get out a good ol multimeter and take readings off of it, see if it puts out any significant amount of power.

Here we go, lots of good information in here: What the post-facelift one looks like:

From what I've read it's permanently in the vehicle, when others have done this job in the past that I've seen they either just ignore the bracing or fab up something kinda ghetto that's better than nothing. Haven't really heard stories of it not working out without support as long as you don't way overdo the weight on it. There's another thread specifically on this topic, I'll try to find it. Pretty sure it was another one of @hawairish's famous tutorials, I know @CDN_S4 followed it and it worked out well for him.

Kinda like this, but without a logo...although it would be pretty slick if you could work out a clean Nissan logo to shine on the ground.

If you're just looking to light up the ground rather than put light in the wheel wells where rock lights are normally put for offroading uses, I would consider putting them in the door shining down; you'd avoid running wires outside of the vehicle that way, although you would have to take the door panels off and snake the wire through the rubber piece between the door and body. Anyways, that's what I would do. I don't remember, do Pathy's have lights in the doors (pretty sure they don't)? If so, you could tap off of that pretty easily and I'd imagine it will be fine, and then you can keep all the wiring contained in the door.

2 QX4's in a row, I like it. ?

@TowndawgR50, that's some really useful information, thanks! I've always had my CB setups running either through an adapter plugged into a cig lighter or tapped into the wiring behind it. I'm definitely going to be running dedicated wires for this when the weather warms up in a few months. Didn't realize the interference was from some shared circuitry, I had windshield wiper interference real bad on the QX4; not so much with my 4Runner now, but still some.

By the "at full droop" question I believe he was wondering if the CV's bind when the suspension is completely unloaded; for example when you lift a wheel offroading. I am intrigued by the camber bolts possibly being exclusive to 2005 thing too, when I'm at the junkyard from now on I'll take a peek at any R51's they may have and report back with my findings, or heck, any one I see in a parking lot. I wonder (if the 2005 thing is true), if you can just slap the parts onto a different model year to get OEM adjustability?

As a general comment on the topic, while I agree that the gauges are lacking (I personally would like to know the status of as much as I can, especially when offroading), it certainly seems to be the standard. My '03 4Runner, my dad's '16 Tacoma, and my mom's '12 Escape all have the exact same selection of 4 basic info gauges. I've even seen that some cars now don't have tach's. Pretty sad that people are becoming this uninterested in the machines that they interact with every day; and these are often the same people that don't get the oil changed and complain when the car doesn't last 200k miles trouble free...smh. Anyways...rant over.

The mounting should be the same, not sure if the bumper cover will interfere with it though. I am also going to agree with the consensus around here that they are just damage multipliers. They're pretty expensive too, so unless you get a sweet deal on one and are willing to accept that a slight accident could unnecessarily take out your whole front end, I'd just avoid it.

I know somebody with a 2000 who didn't have them. I gave him my old ones since I didn't need them due to my bumper, but you should be able to easily find a pair for cheap at a local junkyard.

Well dangit, you're gonna make me go and buy another R50! This is really cool, can't wait to see your guys' products.

Do they have a small symbol on the glass indicating that they have a heating element? I know other vehicles do, but I can't remember if my QX4 did.

Mine was there as well. Awfully large button for what it is.

Yup, my QX4 had it, one of my favorite features.

They make a fantastic bumper for 4th gen 4Runners, this is awesome! The R50 community suddenly went from 1 bumper option to several, cool beans.

As clinnwn said, the 3.5 is a timing chain motor. Check the strut towers for rust, it can be hard to see since it usually starts behind the struts.

I got my trailer wiring kit from eTrailer for about 30 bucks and it worked well. Simple 4-pin setup. https://www.etrailer.com/t1-2002_Infiniti_QX4.htm I used a Curt trailer hitch I got off Amazon, but honestly you'd be better off price wise finding one at a local u-pull junkyard.

I'm sorry, I don't know what's up with your Pathy, but I suggest uploading the video to YouTube and linking it here.

Here's one for old-time's sake.

Interesting that you're running into issues when turning, usually the only issues people run into with a 2" or larger spacer lift is when the suspension is at full droop. I personally had a 2" spacer lift (2.5" of actual lift) from sfcreation on mine for about a year and never had issues; it bound up lightly at full droop as I noticed when I had it jacked up to work on, but I never once rain into an issue on the trail other than occasionally tearing or popping off CV boots, but I've always chalked that up to other issues for the most part. Have you tried a different CV axle, perhaps there's a defect in your passenger one for some reason? In any case, as hawairish has said, you can totally do a 2" SFD, just have to keep in mind the complications he mentioned. Is your rear end lifted with spacers as well, or springs? If it's springs, I would suggest doing a 3" SFD up front just to make it easier to install and so you don't regret not going bigger later, and toss a 1" spacer in the rear to level it out. I totally understand not wanting to redo the rear end again though.

Very cool! I'll be interested to hear about your experiences. @fleurys how have the limiting straps been holding up for you?