mjotrainbrain

These should be it: https://www.4x4parts.com/i-21184333-power-steering-rack-bushings.html

Start looking around the forum for something called a sub-frame drop (SFD). You'll need to fabricate one of those for a 6" lift, and then add 2" lift coils. You could theoretically do an 8" SFD with stock coils, but personally I don't like the idea of putting the subframe on stilts that tall. I believe that size has been done a couple times now, so you should be able to get steering to work, not sure if you'll need a custom front driveshaft. You'll almost certainly need one in the rear and custom links, but these things seem to vary from case-to-case more than makes sense. Oh yeah, and you'll of course need longer brake lines and way longer shocks and springs in the rear, there's a few different vehicles that people have use parts from for that stuff before, you'll start to find out more about it as you research SFD's.

Downside of spacers is they move the range of articulation further down, so the CV's can potentially reach an angle where they get damaged. With AC springs they maintain the factory range of movement, however they cannot go to an angle higher than factory, so they cannot get damaged simply by drooping too far. If you do decide to "cheap out" and go with spacers, I would highly recommend sfcreation.com. He's a guy on the forum here and makes a great product.

That Curt rack is the one I have as well, it's solid. Just like any other rack, they rust from the inside out, so I'd spray extra paint down in there before assembly. And for mine, the hex head on the included screws stripped out pretty easily. Otherwise, it's been good.

I'd be interested to know as well. I've heard it doesn't work, but I'm not sure. I like a bright dash in the day, and I'd love to change the color, but at night I DO NOT appreciate bright lights in the cabin.

Yes, specifying the method is important. No idea how the volume of fluid compares between R50's and 4th gen 4Runners, but the standard practice there is to drop the pan 3-4 times and replace the 3-4 quarts that come out when doing so. This will replace near enough to all the fluid without any real risk of harm to the tranny, other than the inconvenience of having to do it. The more things that get brought up on here, the more maintenance I realize I should have done to mine...

Due to most tire manufacturers exaggerating their tire sizes (ie. a "32" is really anywhere from 31.5-31.8 usually), you do have a decent sized tire on there IMO. When I had 32x11.50r15 on my '02 QX4 it would have a bit of a hard time finding that last gear sometimes, especially if it dropped down a gear to climb a long hill; it would take FOREVER to figure itself out on the other side. That being said, how long have you had oversize tires? If it's been a while now, this issue probably isn't coupled to that. Was the vehicle fully warmed up? I know auto trannies sometimes don't shift right if they're cold, especially if you have oversize tires too.

Yup, that's my video. Never followed up with further thoughts, kinda just left my experience hanging. Basically it can be taken as evidence that unibody flex really should be taken into account when making modifications that span the length of these vehicles. Although, skidplates and rock sliders could have potentially stiffened the vehicle enough to make this a non-issue. Even so, conduit clamps seem to be the way to go. Yes, that's more or less what happened. My rack was actually bolted to a very stiff piece of rubber (cheap-o/sketchy coil spring spacers from AutoZone like these https://www.autozone.com/suspension-system-coil-springs-and-lift-lowering/coil-spring-booster/superior-automotive-coil-spring-booster/541731_0_0) which was then bolted to the rack, however that piece of rubber was SUPER stiff; the rack may as well have been bolted directly to the roof (which it would have been if not for the fact that my Curt roofrack was too narrow by an inch or so, could probably bend conduit clamps enough to make them work though). Couple that stiffness with an 80+lb tire strapped up top and beating the crap out of my rig at a challenging offroad park within a week of this modification, and it's no surprise that multiple bolts sheared. Initially this made me skeptical of any method that bolted the roofrack to the roof rails (rather than clamping onto the crossbars), and I may have vocalized this skepticism; I don't remember. In any case, I have now seen enough examples of the conduit clamp method to be convinced it is the best way to do it, unless you want the convenience of easy-on/off, in which case the stock mounting solution to the crossbars is best in my opinion.

Yup, those loaded! Looks really good. I remember seeing somebody did this a couple years ago and I always wanted to, but the Infiniti bumper doesn't have reflectors and I didn't want to blindly go cutting into the bumper cover.

I had several methods of mounting the rack on my QX4 and was never quite pleased with it, I'd be interested to see him do some writeups!

That's right, I remember now!

The more I look at it, the more I'm convinced you're on IG. If you are, what's your username? I bet I follow you and just don't remember. Gosh I love black R50's...your post sent me on a Craigslist cruise haha.

That's a seriously good looking rig! If you've got a good sunset pic feel free to add that to the October 2018 Truck of the Month thread, it'll be open for 10 more days. Really like the details like CB antenna placement, light bar placement, and low roof rack. Looks real slick.

https://www.arb.com.au/nissan-pathfinder-r50-1999-2005/fuel-tanks-storage/ Can't find a price on it.

There is a company that makes an extended range tank that goes where the spare is. Not really what it seems like you're looking for, but it's the only thing on the subject I've heard about in three years. I'll try to hunt down the link to it.

Technically only one of them (don't remember which) is rated as a tow point, but even so I wouldn't use them unless absolutely necessary. Not worth tweaking the vehicle if you don't have to. If you're burried to the rockers in mud I wouldn't even think about it, but if you're just slipping on a slick hill and need a winch up it would probably hold.

The proportions on that icon are hilarious

Yeah yeah, enjoy the confidence that it won't rot through in a couple months...ya darn Arizona people! How do you plan to coat it? Just some kind of paint, or powdercoat, or? When I painted my bumper I grinded all the rust off, then used Rustoleum etching primer and several coats of Rustoleum enamel. Looked awesome and was tough (abused it a lot, barely scuffed it), until one unusually warm day mid-winter (raining and 35ish) when most of it just fell off while driving home from class. Just something to consider.

Looks like hawairish desperately needs to paint that bumper!

For about $50 a piece (so cheaper than the average quality wheel spacers) you could get 15" wheels of the proper specs. I had great luck with ProComp PCW51-5883. To run 33's, you're going to have to do some serious trimming. A handful of people have done it on 2" lifts, and it really does require butchering the body panels.

ProComp #: PCW51-5883

I know you DM'd me, but you have a couple different details in here so I'll address them too. Those camber bolts should handle the issue, not all shops are familiar with camber bolts so make sure they know what they are. Also, I've had issues with camber bolts breaking before, which I'm going to assume is due to alignment techs using an impact rather than tightening appropriately, may be worth requesting that they take the time to torque them appropriately. 31" tires will fit fine on stock offset wheels, however the issue is if you want to drop down to a 15" wheel you have to make sure it will fit over the front brakes; not all will. I'll follow up with the part # of ProComp wheels that I and several others have used with great success. Just keep in mind if you get wheels with a larger center bore than your hub you'll want to get hubcentric rings to eliminate any vibrations.

PS, don't mind the nasty fabric. Previous owner is responsible. Really need to clean it, but I can't really justify effort on seats with cigarette holes and foam coming out...

OK, so the LED's I used for my map lights and dome lights are by Yorkim and are extremely bright in my 4Runner, my QX4, my dad's Tacoma, and my mom's Escape. Highly recommend them. Can't say for sure about superbrightleds, however I have been very happy with their bulbs in other applications. Unlike many cheaper bulbs, I haven't had any bad ones from either of these companies. This pic is taken with all interior LED lights on from the backseat, as you can see, you can see! Very well in fact! It's almost annoyingly bright, haha. Stock I could hardly read a map, now I could just about do surgery (if you're crazy enough to let my meathooks on ya!).