mjotrainbrain

Wow, looks like you've got some dedication to restoring this rig! Glad to see it's getting fixed up instead of scrapped. Those new coils look beefier than stock, are you lifting it along with the rebuild?

To expand on what @XPLORx4 is saying here for clarity, longer struts for R50's do not exist. As such, no matter what lift kit you go with, your front suspension will have exactly the same range of motion. Whether you lift 2" with coils or spacers, when you're rolling down the road the road your CV's are at exactly the same angle. However, when you're offroad and unload the front suspension on one side (flexing), the CV's will have a different experience with a spacer vs coil lift. With a coil lift the suspension can still only droop as much as it could when it was factory-stock, so your CV's will be A-OK guaranteed. However, if you have a spacer lift you run the risk of having full suspension droop be outside the range of motion of the CV's (since a spacer lift moves the entire strut assembly downward), something you may not notice until you've driven your R50 someplace where it would be especially unpleasant to deal with a CV breakage. Spacer lifts can work, and work well, just keep in mind if you go too high you're pushing your CV's beyond their limits in some situations.

As far as I know those just give you someplace to set items so you aren't scraping the roof itself; they certainly seem too flimsy to add any extra support worth noting. I tried the pre-facelift crossbars on mine at one point because I liked the lower-profile look but I have to agree with @RainGoat, they are quite flimsy by comparison to the post-facelift crossbars, and really you're only getting the bars about 1.25" lower if I remember right, so if you have a basket and carry weight up there I certainly wouldn't recommend them.

Basically yes, you have the concepts down. Keep in mind, the stock R50 springs are pretty soft so it may be desirable to go with aftermarket springs to avoid bottoming out if you intend to offroad; once aftermarket springs are broken in, topping out isn't much of an issue. If you do choose to go the spacer route, while it's more fabrication work, I'd suggest making custom strut spacers that correct for the camber so you don't have to use aftermarket camber bolts to get a proper alignment. If you tow at all or carry lots of gear in the back you'll notice that the rear springs are pretty soft too, so you'd really be best off upgrading the springs all the way around, just my 2c worth.

(At least on my QX4) the spoiler is mounted to the hinges; the hinges for models with the spoiler have a protrusion that holds the spoiler away from the body slightly.

Yeah, the midwest has been crazy lately! I live in west Michigan and haven't left my house since Monday haha. Soooooooooo much snow!

Your best bet is a pull apart yard. You'll need the rear glass hinges and of course the spoiler itself.

Those sliders look really good! Got any pics of underneath where they mount?

That's some serious dedication, great job!

Looks like an absolute BEAST in this pic! Goes to show once again how good lifted black R50's look; my favorite.

Not a lot of recent posts in this thread, but it's a good starting point to get an idea of the combos you can do as far as wheels/tires/suspension.

Unfortunately I don't know anything about that exact one, but I suspect it's a rather generic part. And yes, it was just bolted to the plastic cover. Should prove very easy to add if you get one.

Ok, thanks. I'm thinking personally I'll be going with E just because I'm paranoid about tire punctures in the woods.

Ok, thanks. I'm thinjing personally I'll be going with E just because I'm paranoid about tire punctures in the woods.

Wow, looks great! Really aggressive sidewall on those Wildpeaks, are they the load range E? I've heard the sidewall on those has a more aggressive tread than range C.

I suspect this may have been @RedPath88's plan.

I got scared for a second, thought that first one was yours! Didn't take long to notice the difference though. Nice looking vehicles for sure!

Thanks for the kind words! I do attempt to be helpful within my knowledge's bounds. I keep a closer eye on Craigslist than is probably healthy. It's always a possibility!

Looks like you're stuck with me for a while now!

Looks like you did a pretty good job of it, hopefully your solution holds up for ya!

Merged with duplicate thread posted in incorrect sub-forum.

From what I understand the drivetrain similarities are just in the transfer case, as far as how the AUTO mode operates. The overdrive is going to be totally contained in the transmission which (I believe) is roughly the same in Pathfinders all the way back to '88. I'm not an expert on Nissan drivetrains by any means though. Are you sure the vibration is only in overdrive?

Not sure on Pathfinders, but I know on 4Runners that's a sign of the torque converter dying...not sure if something else could be a factor.