Charlie_Brown

Pulled brand new alternator, brackets and used ac pump from pick and pull along with a new dipstick. Looked around to see if any of the wd21s had Manual locking hubs, unfortunately they did not. Shame the xterra engine was pulled completely. Could have used the brackets from that instead of the r50. Remainder of the weekend was spent pulling the engine out of my dad b4000 mazda. Not leaving a lot of time for my truck especially when it snows the next day lol.

I really love that interrupt on the doors. Not sure what package I God but it looks nowhere as good

If love to see this happen, a lot of users seem to have a X. I would consider getting one myself when my wd21 is completely dead.

Tightened the torsion bars, just guessed on where they should be at. I can't seem to figure out where the swivel bolt is on the 92. Anyone want to give me a hint? Lubed the locks and gave it a bath. Ordered new fuel injectors along with a new fuel filter. Come to think of it i should habe put the new oil filter in while I was down there. Hopefully next week I can make it to pick and pull

Put front diff in along with the front driveline. Diff was a bitch, seriously fskc that thing. Why is it so hard to line back up and get in when sliding the neck through it. After that found out my slave was bad and had to get a new one, still leaked air because the damn copper washers wouldn't compress enpugh. My dad finally got it tight after swapping them around and was able to finally drive the truck for a short bit. I'm tired of everything on this truck fighting me, everything has taken almost a full day and I've replaced or cleaned up everything on the truck at this point besides the rear axle.

Haha sounds like my exhaust only I don't have the holes. It us solid but rusted shut through and through so even thinking about working on it is pointless. I want a new exhaust anyways though so it's a good excuse to spend the $$$

You doing the 2.5 pipe out to glasspack, high flow cat, magna or something else? Put the rear driveshaft on, should have done the front while inward at it but I didn't think about it, rigged up a way to keep a vg30 belt from slipping so I could run the truck and let idle, burnt a lot of oil but after a half hour or so it ceased thankfully. Found out an injector us bad causing misfire, waterpump is bad causing MAJOR leak. Truck was put in time by my dad and mounted the headers to the old exhaust.

Installed thorley headers, "fixed" dipstick issue and was finally able to start the truck up. Damn she sounds mean! Began trying to figure out what to do with the alternator and p/s pump and future belts. Has anyone else swapped a vg33 in wd21, keeping oil filter in the same spot while also keeping alternator and p/s in vg30 positions? I've not been able to find much on it since everyone tends to keep all accessories from vg30 which I am not doing.

Further IOUs in my opinion are worth it for further knowledge and experience. Just my 2 cents.

Rewired the vg33

Put the vg33 long block in finally and mounted transmission back up. That was more of a process than I had imagined it would have been. Tomorrow going to reinstall t bars and possibly driveshafts before work

I bought my truck with plastidip over the rims and fenders/doors and whatever else the clear coat was coming off. One time wheeling I took nearly all the dip off the rims lol

Removed torsion bars, drivers side large bolt up under engine bay 4x4 is just spinning so it's not 100% off. Not sure how I'm going to stop it considering there isn't any room to get a wrench to hold it and no way could you get a socket. Anybody have any ideas for me to try?

Pulled front diff and took off exhaust manifold. Sprayed bolts down for tomorrow and greased the rear passenger door lock that kept getting stuck. Mold is already coming back pretty hard after just two weeks so I kept my window cracked since no rain this weekend. Gonna take off the torsion bars tomorrow and I'll be all ready for vg33 to go in

Is it running rough? If so check timing, otherwise I'd be thinking of a tune up and see if that clears up anything with mpgs.

Love XE simplicity but I have to say being able to adjust side view mirrors with the push of a button has me envious along with stock 31s. Hate sunroof, nothing but problems and the rest of the electrical are unnecessary.

Don't let the 6th plug scare you. Is it a pain, yes however when you get used to it, it actually becomes quite easy to change. I believe I have a 6"extention as well that I always used to change it and never needed a u joint. It works quite well but a u joint is easier on your knuckles hitting the fire wall. I like that idea with an old spark plug, I have a few laying about I might have to use one for that

Cleaned the mold out of it finally and started to take the front diff off. Drivers side 12mm bolts stopped me since they are on too tight and I don't want to strip the dang things. Sprayed liquid wrench on them and the exhaust manifold bolts. Hopefully it doesn't rain while I'm working on it this weekend.

I need to see where my leak is. I was blessed to look into my truck after all the snow and find Hella mold

Awesome, thank you I began taking the torsion bars out by just removing the cross member they are connected to when I pulled the block but when it didn't move I was too frustrated to care and just pulled the clutch lol. Overall it took me a good 10 hours I would say to get the block out though this is the first time I've ever done this.

My thought exactly haha

Thank you

Okay so the old VG30 was a bitch to take out. I heard of others pushing the transmission back so I did that and was still not able to get the block+clutch assembly out at once. Ended up having to take the clutch off the block as well to get the block out. Am I just doing this the hard way or is there something I am missing? I am in the process of VG33 swap and to attempt to install the clutch with the block half way in again is beyond daunting. Maybe I'm just a wimp but man screw that hahaha. It's all the dang oil pans fault for being so bulky. I should add I'm running stock height pathy with blown shocks so a little on the smaller side. I have looked to see what others did to get the block out however it is more so glanced over beyond pushing the transmission back.

Okay so the old VG30 was a bitch to take out. I heard of others pushing the transmission back so I did that and was still not able to get the block+clutch assembly out at once. Ended up having to take the clutch off the block as well to get the block out. Am I just doing this the hard way or is there something I am missing? I am in the process of VG33 swap and to attempt to install the clutch with the block half way in again is beyond daunting. Maybe I'm just a wimp but man screw that hahaha. It's all the dang oil pans fault for being so bulky. I should add I'm running stock height pathy with blown shocks so a little on the smaller side. I have looked to see what others did to get the block out however it is more so glanced over beyond pushing the transmission back.