Charlie_Brown

Makes sense, I just figured 33et was a stock option for some vehicles haha my mistake

I thought the et was the turbo? That is good to know another opinion on cold air intake. I was considering doing that on top of a snorkel but that just seems kinda pointless. Not many people have talked about their experiences with cold air intakes on here.

Yes I have heard of the 30de just never a 33de. That is the reason I am hesitant in this situation lol otherwise I would just outright assume it was a misprint

Yeah I read about the er but nothing about a de which is what is leading me to believe that it is just a misprint or I am just not informed

Anyone?

I was planning on putting 33s on the truck before I destroyed the engine. Multiple people say they have a noticeable power loss with 33s and up so I figured since I already ruined the block it would be better to go this route now rather than later. If I stick 30 the only good thing about it is I could be done pretty much tomorrow.

I'll have to consider that on my build. This might be a dumb question however I just want to be sure, VG33E is the only one they made other than VG33ET right? I keep seeing vg33de around but it seems people are just talking about vg33e. Only reason I am not sure is the vg30de does exist

Thanks for the tip, I'll look into JDM now Yeah I read the xterra solves that issue and was planning on searching around for one for my swap if I got an engine out of another pathy Mr. 510 actually does still make brackets for the vg33 swap to move the power steering and alternator in the right place for quest I'd imagine but I'm not sure on the crank. I'll have to ask him on his facebook

I ended up not getting the engine after finding out that not only would I have to pull the engine but it also has over 100k. Not worth 900$ in my opinion however this is still really good information to know so thank you

I found a vg33 a guy is selling for 900$ but he parted the throttle body out. Going for a vg33 swap

Do I need to modify, will it not work at all, I've not found much on it on forums

While dismantling my engine I just had one guy hold the other sproket in place woth a wrench while i loosened mine. As soon as the bolt broke free we switched, the loosened bolt will toghten again but not very much. Done it twice and ut has worked perfectly both times, the i took TBD off both sprockets and zip tied it to itself at the bottom/wedged some wood so reinstalling the belt would be easier instead of counting teeth and dealing with the lower end of TB

Looked into options for new block, new gaskets set got shipped and rear glass/trunk struts so I installed the struts. Looked into snorkel head while dealing with being sick

I second the ground, a halogen can run without however a lot of LEDS are sensitive to this and will either flicker, be dim or in rare cases just refuse to work.

I like your jerry can set up I was thinking of doing a rear bumper tucked away like this but also having it wrapping around the side to rear wheel well and sloped as extra sliders. Anyways, looks awesome!

There is 3 scratches and one is pretty pronounced and can only be fixed by boring the cylinders. The thing I find so odd with that is the knock sounded like it was top end rather than bottom end especially when I listened through a hose. On top of that my ECU has not picked up any codes. Looking at my options however I'm kinda considering pulling an engine off pick and pull and having it hot dipped/rebuilding the block. Tell me if I'm stupid in thinking this however in my mind I'll have a new engine and spent less money since all the long and short blocks I've found for sale have been close to or above 2000$ Not often someone messes up a block like I did

Tore apart everything on the engine to the block. Found out some sad @!*% and am going to either rebuild or engine swap now. The fact that it was raining all day was extremely fitting hahaha

Those wrap around the piston right? That's what I'm guessing is scratching the cylinder. I don't understand how that creates a knock however instead of a grinding. Also not sure how I would lose so much power when it is just one cylinder. Looks like I need to do more research in the matter, I'm way passed my engine knowledge

Well I tore apart the engine and I'm a little confused. Both heads are off and I looked at the valves, no light shown through when putting a flashlight up to it and they were all closed after loosening the rocker arms assembly. So it seems to me that they are not bent My cylinders all looked fine just had a build up of carbon on all but two, one thing however is grooves were on one of the cylinders indicating some form of wear. If I bent a piston rod however wouldn't the engine seized and not work? No cracked pistons, no light through valves, lifters seem fine and hold oil so what the he'll is causing the knock and terrible run? I'm about to just throw a new engine at this truck if I can get one for cheap that or look into long block short block

Installed some tube side rails I got from wreckers. I am surprised how beefy they are considering how much @!*% I hear about them over these forums hahaha

Maybe you should look into getting a D21 2WD so you don't have the excess body roll as well. Just a thought

That is not a bad idea I'll do that since it will be exposed anyways

Went to pick and pull and got to play around on a 91. Always fun

Just an update so yall dont thibk i abonded the ol' girl Well I went to pick and pull today to get the head assembly form a 91. Man yall didn't warn me that I would have to take off every damn thing! Haha I couldn't believe how much is attached just to get them off. I ran out of time getting the second head under the I take manifold so I'll be back tomorrow to get that along with a few other things like some nerf bars till I get rock sliders.

Damn I'm really hoping I get lucky with valves and lifters rather than having a bent rod. That much of a tear down is pretty much a rebuild. I'll perform a leak down test asap after buying the attachment. At least they are not *too expensive.