Charlie_Brown

Do you know of any others, other than having one made (not against that option as it would be cheaper anyways) Yeah I just got done doing a 3in SL so I'm trying to address steering issues now rather than later and ruin new ball joints.

Hahaha unfortunately I still have yet to learn how to post pictures here with my phone lol plus the truck is so far from being finished it's laughable. Wait till I paint it, I'll be posting a few photos on the fb site for sure and figure out how to get it on here. Mounted winch inside the bumper, more drilling and making things work. Reclocked the winch and accidentally pulled the damn brake cap completely off the engine. Wasn't hard to reinstall but certainly frustrating. Winch control module is mounted on bracket I bent and mounted on top if the bumper, I think it looks pretty good honestly. Remounted bumper on the truck and installed panrod drop bracket. Opted against installing my current (1.5-2in lift) RC control arms, seemed like a waste of time so instead ordered diff drop bushings and looked into new carpet for the truck. I really hate red on red on red. Ran out of parts to install. Going to drill more mounting holes into the bumper for some added support tomorrow.

I've been considering modifying the steering setup with the calimini idler brace (only one ice found still in production) and doing the 2wd conversion. Should be more than strong to handle anything I ever throw at it and be able to run 33s full time.

Thank you! I was leaning towards superlift over calimini for sure anyways. As for SAS, I don't know how to weld unfortunately otherwise I would be tempted to take on that project and paying someone to do it is far more $$$ than I like to spend. For now SAW is a dream for future.

My stock arms are sitting about the same as yours so that is good to know. I'm definitely leaning towards getting proper UCAs regardless of the fact it's another 200$. Would rather do it right and not have to buy new ball joints as soon as I hit dirt. Searching on forums I've seen people say AC control arms do nothing for the ball joints (one individual said it makes it worse!) While superlift and RC are the same but have not heard much on how well they correct angles. Calimini I've heard good things but Jesus who wants to spend 400$ for UCAs!?! I don't even care you get new ball joints will it, not worth it plus dealing with the hassle of making it for on the truck. But I'm rambling, question is just how each of them perform to correct bj angles (3in suspension).

I thought that might be the case when I first discovered it and more behind the interior of the door. It also collects a bunch of hair and makes the truck look hella gross! hahaha Installed 3 inch suspension lift, painted and sanded rust spots on bumper, driller new holes to allow the fairlead to align as it should and threaded a mounting spot on top for the winch control module. New torsion bars look awesome on the truck. Decided to throw on the 35 tires I have from a Craigslist buy, truck looks super good and it worthy as a head Turner finally. Shot bolts with penetrating oil for UCAs for tomorrow

Before I blew my motor i had planned to lift the truck a modest 1 to 2 inches just for some clearance, well I just got done installing a 2 in BL and 3 in SL with HD Tbars. I still have the UCAs for the 1.5-2in lift and was curious if they still might work. My thought is they would work better than stock but the bjs would still suffer since they wouldn't be exactly correct however I've heard others running 2 inches of lift without changing the stock UCAs so maybe I'm wrong? The UCAs are from RC. Hoping someone more savvy than I can help guide me.

Installed a 2in body lift. I'm surprised how simple doing that was, hardly have to remove anything. Cleaned up a bit of the mess the PO left me on the rear passenger door. Not sure if it is some really crappy and still gummy kind of adhesive or what but it is everywhere, behind the door cover, under the kicker panel, all ran down the door to the bottom. Scrapped most off, figured I'll do an actual real cleaning of it when I'm done wrenching on the truck. Odorless and not super noticeable since I'm in the driver's seat so it can wait a month or two lol. Tomorrow I'm going to try mounting my winch, hammering back my bumper and fixing the turn signals on it, re mount and start on torsion bars.

Check all your grounds. I forgot to put my main ground back on and had the same issue. Painted the Nissan emblem on the grill, blue circle chromed out to red Nissan. Flashy but looks pretty goid. Bent and cut a bracket for the snorkel to be mounted to the A pillar. Need to drill holes, grind smooth and paint it tomorrow. Mounted new rims with the 33 super swampers just to make sure they would fit on the truck. They "fit" but now I'm looking at minimum 4inch lift. Considering caliminis suspension lift kit with the new torsion bars (mine are sagged pretty hard) with a 2 inch BL. Anyone have experience with this lift? Opinions? Y'all think it would be comparable in price to SAS? I don't know how to weld so I'd have to take it to a shop unfortunately. Leaning on the lifts for cost factor but open to all opinions and experiences.

When cutting a radiator hose that is not a steel braided one you can get an easy clean cut with a razor blade with two easy steps First put your hose clamp and tighten it where you want to cut so you have a straight line to follow, next apply any type of lube you wish to around the area you want to cut and to your blade, the lube strips the friction so razor blades cut through like butter and you don't have a rough cut anymore.

Bolted everything back on the engine and got it running again. Reworked where I had my wiring so my shroud could fit in and put new radiator in. After 3 trips into town I finally got a hose that will work for the lower radiator hose, just took a little trimming to the hose but came out perfect and smooth. Mocked the fender back into place and bolted it all back down, cut and bent a new bracket for the snorkel support. It's not pretty right now bit I might end up straightening It a little more before painting Painted windshield wipers, drilled and rethreaded two bolts that snapped off for the radiator support bracket. Spent more time running into town than actually working bit it all got done somehow.

Installed new timing belt and tensioner, got timing on CORRECTLY this time. Main difference between having someone help you that knows what they are doing verses having people help you that doesn't know what they are doing. So much easier. Plumbed the snorkel and painted the fender. Got impatient with the paint since it was stopping me from mounting and working on the bracket for the top so I applied my second coat too soon and now I have dry lake bed. Going to sand it back down tomorrow and start fresh, though the paint is only temporary it bothers me to see it like that. Then again I don't know, maybe I'll jut wait on it till I paint the whole truck. It will make that project come sooner rather than later that way since it will annoy me looking at it. Oh yeah, fixed a ground I forgot to put back on.

Beat fender more so snorkel is pretty straight, been thinking of how I'm going to paint the truck and looking at ideas. I'll tear the engine back apart next weekend when I get the new belt. Considering running into town and picking up a rattle can of red paint for the fender and just spraying over the cuts and paint that chipped off. I don't care if it stays or not since I'm not going to keep it that color but I feel like I should just wait for when I actually paint it. Not sire, will probably just get a rattle can so I can finish the install since all that's left is easy.

Cut into my fender for the snorkel, beat the crap out if it to try to get it straight with some success. Still not happy entirely with how it sits but it's too late to work on it, took out the air filter box so I can begin the plumbing tomorrow if I feel like it. That or tear the engine back down, one of the two.

fskced up the timing. Now I have to tear the engine apart again. These water pumps are absolutely retarded, who makes something so ass backwards where you have to take timing belt off when changing the damn pump. I'm frustrated and done working on this truck for awhile

Put the grille back on, cleaned threads of paint and found the stud I need so I can complete the engine next weekend

I had just started to tighten it when It snaooed. Loosening it is what weakened it, it was stuck in place and would barely even move. It was just old and was over tightened before I guess. Not much I could have done about it but spend more time with liquid wrench before moving it. Oh well, I needed a break from the vulture wagon anyways hahaha. I'll have to double check that torque spec

I have no idea, I looked on rock auto but none of them mentioned coming with or without a replacement bolt, just the pulley and spring. Wasn't planning on swapping either the belt or the tensioner since they are in good shape and I'm burning money on this truck faster than I can handle so I didn't want to order it and still be stuck in the same spot.

Finished sanding the tire carrier, removed and sanded the side steps to bare metal, painted Bedliner on all of it 2 coats. Tried to find that &^%*ing stud again for the third day, no luck. Called dealership (it's an hour and a half drive one way so not my first pick) got the part number and ordered it for 3 dollars. Won't be able to drive my truck on the fourth but what can you do I guess. Next year. fskc this truck hahaha Anyways, timing belt tensioner stud part number for Nissan dealership; 13073V5001

To help anyone in the future, the part number for this stud is 13073V5001 at Nissan dealership and costs 3 dollars. Way better than pick and pull. I tried auto pars stores, hardware stores, nobody seemed to have it. Just go to the dealership.

I can get it at wreckers for sure I'm just trying to stay away from a used bolt. I just started to tighten mine when it snapped and I wasn't even trying it. My bolt off the old engine has 300k on her so I'm not trying to use that one. I'm gonna try fastenal tomorrow if they are open but it might come down to dealer

Timing tensioner Bolt (rod) broke when I was tightening it back up and now I'm stuck, my napa didn't have anything but header bolts, no lick with AutoZone, Lowe's or orchard. Can any of you please point me in the right direction on getting a replacement either online of a brick and mortar store. I refuse to use an old bolt and test the same thing happening again. Thank you

Sanded the entire spare tire swing to bare metal, replaced waterpump for so when I got the damn timing belt back on for the tensioner bolt to snap. &^%*ing figures. Painted pulleys and random engine parts something are shiney when they go back on, painted grille

Mounted the alternator and tensioner. Replaced AC intercooler and straightened out the bracket to the frame that the p.o bent in a small wreck. Ordered new radiator and belt since I didn't do anything else on Sunday but hang out with friends.

Replaced all six fuel injectors along with the fuel filter. Blew out the real tube and after testing her out found out my water pump is indeed bad. Can still hear a slight misfire so I'm gonna try cleaning the MAF however I know for a fact I have one or two exhaust leaks so I could easily just be hearing thst. I'll probably just wait till I get a new exhaust.