Charlie_Brown

That is good to know lucky at this point I don't need to mess with them and their lengths bit in the future I'll have to remember that

Flushed the coolant system and repaired a wire that broke from it's connection so she can start and run again. Trying to get enough motivation to pull the rad out and redo the power steering lines.

Yep, black box is just a connection however I was unaware that the red and green wires were fusible, I figured that was in the next set of connections immediately after. Good to know

It is literally the connection box that connects to the positive terminal right at the battery. I took it off and apart and it's not a disable link it's just a connection for anyone else who may want to know. Ended up a wire pulled away from the connector so just the insulation was connected in my case.

Anyone know what this is for and if it is a fusable link or just a Connection? Can I bypass it and wire straight onto the battery post or like I said is it a disable link?

The block attached to the positive cable is making it so I can't start the truck up. Thought it might habe just been the terminal since it was cracked and rotten bit after replacing it's still having troubles starting. Gotta go the the junkyard and get a new cable. Not paying 122$ for that. Seemingly fixed my coolant leak once and for all. I say seemingly because until I run the truck for a few hours I won't know for sure bit I see now way of it failing. Looking at exhaust parts now with magnaflow high flow cat and red cherry bomb style muffler. Anyone have any thought, opinions or remarks on exhaust and which way I should go? Never done anything with exhaust before.

Took it out on a dirt road for shooting, nothing big just a road with some minor ruts since the gate was closed. Truck performs great, ecu 55 and the only issue with the whole engine after the swap is a coolant hose has a leak which stopped me from getting an alignment. Swapped the 33 super swampers on it and looking at trimming the fenders a little so I don't rub at full flex and turning bit other than that it doesn't rub at all. Plus it would be interesting trimming the fenders and making them look good and not hacked. Still have to redo the power steering line but I'm just happy to be driving it again and not have any major issues

33x12.50r15 beadlocks on super swampers with 3.5in SL and 2in BL. Only rub is on the fender flares in corners at turns and on flex. Thinking about trimming to get rid of it and give it a better look. Have to paint the truck regardless so really not much stopping me.

Last three weekends I cut, bent and painted new brackets for the power steering out of 1/4 inch steel. Bent and moved the lines for the pressurized line, bent the outlet for the return hose so it wants going straight to the frame and added 6 feet of hose back to the fluid housing. Thankfully got my dad to help me out this weekend however it was only after we were done with everything that we saw that the return line is hitting the centerlink when it turns. I thought it was going to just barely kiss it but it hits hard so now I'm looking at getting a different line and maybe drilling new holes in my bracket to raise it however much I possibly can. Cut a notch out of the fan shroud since after the body lift if wants to rub against it and put the radiator back in. I'm going to run the power steering as it is right now to get new tires and an alignment, later I'll be bothered to take it all back off and work new lines.

Everything is torqued down and greased. Need to attempt an amatures allaignment but that can wait. Time to start brackets

Don't forget to depressurize the system and run it out if gas before pulling the Injectors. Gas in the eyes burns like a son of a bitch

Front v8 Cherokee springs. Google it you'll get the answer because I'm not positive on the year but I want to say 98. Type in Google lifting wd21 using jeep Cherokee springs. You'll get forum threads right off the bat. Can we just put all this information in one forum and pin it at the top so it doesn't have to be asked all the time? Would help out newbies and make it so we don't habe to answer the same questions all the time.

I messaged you

Yep, that's exactly how I did it and how it says to do it in the bible. When in doubt, pull the bible out. Especially for something as critical as the timing belt is in our engines

Got the tie rod adjustment sleeves drilled and retapped, putting the zerk fittings in now so it's all ready to go in first th8ng in the morning and I can torque it all down.havw to thread two of the tie rods first though, not a big deal. Looked around for where the hell I'm going to mount this vice for the time being till the garage gets cleaned out a bit have an idea with a junk table I've been using to paint parts on in the driveway so power steering bracket should be coming along sooner rather than later. I'll just have to put counter weights on the other end of the table. This vice is no joke! hahaha

Bought your grandpappys vice he used to build ships in WW2 for 100 bucks off Craigslist. Is it overkill since I'm really just using it to make brackets? Yeah. But it was cheaper than getting one brand new. Time to beat 1/4 thick steel!

Cut and painted some shims last week from 1/4 steel. Got them installed after fighting the motor mounts for 2 dsys. As soon as the fronts came off each motor mount would suck in and would not allow the new bolt to thread in. PITA! Something that was supposed to be simple took two days lol

Isn't there a diagram of which fuse goes to what on the backside of the cover plate that tells you this?

Got spindle on drivers uca and installed everything. Was a bit of a PITA by myself this time using my leg to jack the LCA up while holding it in position For uca but got it done and the truck is back on 4 wheels again. Started it up, had my brother in law put it in 1st and reverse and let out the clutch to see if the motor would jump. Motor was solid on start up and both gears so motor mounts are still good and shouldn't be sagging from my knowledge. Not sure if there is another test I could try to be 100% sure but I'll have to Google more for that. Back to the idea of shimming the motor with a 1/4 steel or aluminum block. CL only hits going straight and hardly rubs but last thing i want is to rub a hole in the oilpan. I just find it so strange I'm the only one who has had this problem with 2wd steering conversion.

Vg30 oil pan and dented it to fit the crank. Considering the truck is 24 years old I'm thinking if I install new motor mounts it could allieve the situation as well since the old ones are most likely adding pretty good. Not sure how to check that though, guess it's time to search google

Got the centerlink on, hits oil pan for some reason so I'm considering shimming the motor to clear it. Put clear coat on uca spindle, hopefully by tomorrow night i can finish that up and install it to the drivers side, just have to remember to get up at 4am for another clear coat.

Spring can o my go on one way, it hooks into the wheel itself

Replaced drivers side upper and lower ball joints and greased bearings. Added more coats of paint to the spindle so after some clear coats it will be ready to go in and I can tie everything together again. Removed tie rods and centerlink from the truck to begin the 2wd steering conversion and immediately ran into issues with my truck being a vg33 swap and a massaged out oil pan that barely cleared the original centerlink. Bummer but oh well, still need to get the TREs drilled and tapped to fit

Greased the bearings on passenger side, wanted to grease the cv hub bearings but couldn't get it open from the front. Installed new control arm and both upper and lower ball joints and reinstalled everything. Took apart drivers side and got control arm out, bushings drilled and burned out, spindle primed and has first coat of paint. I need to get grease and a grease gun now. So many zerk fittings to do now. Kinda annoyed my top balljoint zerk fitting doesn't want to thread in but it should still work. Might put some teflon on it and see if that helps when I go to grease it all.

Installed idler arm brace, took off brake pad assembly after messing with frozed bolts and snapped my only Alan wrench socket I had of correct size turning out the seized bolts to the &^%*ing hub. Got all but two free. Last of clear coating on spindle done so control arm should be going on soon. Or in short I fought bolts till they broke my tools leaving me dead for the day.