deej

Can you say "Stinger" ? Here's what they look like on a Yoda http://www.marlincrawler.com/images/dean_500.jpg but I'ld love to see one on a Pathy Google "stinger bumper designs" or something like that.

Good enough reason for me

Good to hear you're feeling better, keep us posted on your progress. What's happening in March that it's your deadline?

At least you got something to keep you busy while you wait for parts.......I hate when little jobs turn into big ones though Good luck with the rest of your "little" jobs

I have heard good things about the selection in the Pro Comp line and price seems reasonable.......also the Rancho Shocks aren't a long travel shock, they just change the ride.

What I'm thinking is if you get a shock with the most travel extended but as close to 16" compressed as possible , it should work the best as long as it bolts up. The only thing you might want to keep an eye on is the bump stops.....a shock that compresses too much will hit the bump stops so you may want to make them longer a bit to compensate. As a general rule of thumb, the shocks will only be extending great distances in a "crawling" scenerio. What I think you are looking for is a 16" compressed. The only thing that should make a difference in compressed length is if you have a suspension lift, then add your lift to the compressed length and go up from there. Ex 2" of suspension lift and the Chevy's should work (16" compressed) since you've added 2" to the stock compressed Pathy shocks (14" compressed). You want to avoid a shock hitting its extremes either way but compressed is less desirable because it's usually at higher speeds.....if your xtending your shocks fully at high speeds, you got bigger problems Am I out to lunch here anyone?

Counter clockwise Propane tanks loosen clockwise....I wonder why? Hehe -thnkboutit-

Just tighten them a bit or if your really want the squealing to go away replace them with new ones and keep the old one as a spare.......belts are cheap, take up little space and are nice to have around when you need one.

Just a few words for a young driver......."DO NOT USE CRUISE CONTROL ON ICE OR SNOW" I don't mean to yell, but this is very important Happy Birthday and happy wheeling

I always like to hear stories of fire prevention, good job mws

As far as I know we don't have any. What are the symptoms if the filter needs replacement? Or is it like a furnace filter and should be replaced every so many months or miles with no symptoms?

OK thanks. So are you guys just replacing these shocks with stiffer shocks? I agree, I'm not too impressed with my Munroes. They haven't broke though........yet

Hahaha, I just lost it there....... The only noise I notice when shifting from 2H to 4H is when my rear tires are spinning as I shift. If the tires aren't spinning I'm able to shift in and out of 2H and 4H at will. 4L, however, I do have to stop and put the clutch in. This is in a 98.

Years and years ago when I test drove a 91 Pathy I remember the switch, I thought it had to do with shifting more than shock dampening. I could be wrong though

I "Roger" that, it's a "big 10-4" "copy that". I never use them myself, if someone else wants to they can, but it's not a must. Most of the time I just say "Hi-deej here"

Alot of the handheld ones come with a detachable antenna (which is what I have and would work for your 5-10 car lengths), if you get a good quality tuned magnetic mount antenna you can attach it to the handheld as an external antenna for further distances. I have never had any problems communicating with mine, just an idea.

You can put a toggle switch on the power and turn the fan off, but DON'T forget to turn it back on after you cross water

Ahhhhh, that would explain why I couldn't find one in my 98. Thanks Trainman

What year did they start using the cabin air filter?

"RALLEY THE TROOPS, WE'RE GOING TO CARDOMAIN!!!!!"......... That guy is gettin' it hardcore, good job guys. Hey Wheelman, did you ever find a 'really cool roof rack' ?

With these being a unibody, I'ld say that's a structural problem and should be attended to pronto, like quick. I, myself wouldn't be driving on that , that being said, whatever you do to fix it should probably be checked out by a certified shop just to make sure that it is still safe. Maybe check with a Nissan autobody shop, they may be able to get you the panel you are looking for.

Check the u-joints first,they are the easiest. Grab the driveshaft and try and move it side to side in all directions. There should be no "play" or "slop" when you try to move it.

So are you "legal" yet?

Good to see it made it through the first night. I got my fingers crossed for ya for the second night, hopefully it's not shot up. I like that you're getting a Yota to finish the job, it'll work out fine for you Rami.

It actually takes away from clearance by 1/2" on the inside of the tire and adds 1/2" ground clearance at the bottom and takes away 1/2" fender clearance if that makes sense. 31"X10.5" are a good choice of tire