deej

Must use LSD additive if LSD, additive will not affect open diff but regular GL without additive will damage LSD. Play it safe and use LSD safe GL if you're not sure.

I'm with you on that, and Facebook too.

I'm lucky so far, my FE has been holding up well. I did the struts. The most time and money has been into the rear. I did the lower CA bushings, the exhaust, just finished alt and battery and I still need to do the upper CA bushings. I am getting a minor clunking from the front that I need to address soon as well. Other than those little issues, these trucks are built tough and access to replacement parts is getting cheaper and easier. My wife and I came close to selling our Pathy but realized soon enough that it is worth way more to us than anyone else, that's why I say repairing yours is worth it.

That's a good start, I just finished dropping another $1000 in my 98 with 230,000kms and it is well worth it.

Will do, thanks.

Hmm, mine is one of the listed. Does this cause the check engine light to come on as well?

That's awesome, me wants! P.S. Do up your seatbelt....

Looks like I'm due for a new alternator too. What years/engine Quest alternators will work? Are they the same as the Mercury Villager alternators?

Both arms in 4 hours is actually pretty good.

I usually don't plug in my block heater till it's -15 or 20C so your 10 below would be plenty cold enough to plug it in or at least it wouldn't hurt.

This is where I used an angle grinder with a narrow cutting wheel and cut off the head of the bolt. The order I did the removal was this: 1) Loosen the nut 2) Grind off the head right down to the mount (this is 5-10 minutes) 3) Tighten the nut again to turn the bolt and free up the head end of the bolt 4) The Bolt SHOULD pull through from the nut end. If it doesn't, impact chisel the nut end off as close to the mount as possible and pry the mount opening apart enough to remove the arm with bolt, bushing and sleeve still in it. As far as the sleeve around the bushing, I never removed mine because I had no idea how to get it out and I was able to press the new bushing in (with great difficulty). here is the post that I think is the real deal. If you can find a socket or something of the same circumference as the sleeve but not as big as the arm housing, you should be able to press it right out. Remember to use ALOT of grease when you press the new bushings in.

Heehee, I should have got one of those pics too....except made them 'before and after' pics. My thermometer like that had snow on it and when I brushed the snow off to see the temp, the needle DROPPED a couple of degrees..sheesh!

Low coolant level?

Pro for some, con for others.... I get a kick out of him

Our former Off Coord Ken Miller, the guy who kinda looks like Lancaster. The other Sirius plus for me is Howard Stern...again, not on XM or USB.

Sirius X2, we get CFL coverage.....something I can't get on XM OR USB

I think I found the culprit...

It has started in -30C pretty consistently, block heater and thin synthetic oil are my two best friends.

Audio amp...

12 ton should be plenty to press the bushings, I'm not sure about the size but there was the snowmobile piston trick mentioned earlier. The only reason I took the wheels off was to give me more room to work at the back, I had to grind the old bolt heads off in order to get the axle end free. If you want, you should be able to leave the wheel on for the frame rail end. It might be a little tight for room on the axle end with the wheels on but someone else might be able to confirm this.

Ya, I took the wheels off and I probably shouldn't have. I did do one side at a time though which I would really recommend. In the end it was a combination of a floor jack, a bottle jack, two jack stands, an extra set of hands (my brother), a little "whoops", some swearing, and a ton of luck that finally got it to line up. As usual, I think I took the hard way though.....

Ahhh, that would explain it. I looked at those sleeves and I had no idea how to get them out..anyway, it worked out with LOTS of grease.

I just caught the last 10 mins. Just wait till that thing drives circles around their "trail rigs" Hehe

Last time I had that it was time for a new battery....

I ended up reaming the old bushings out because they were too spongee to try and press out. I used a cutting drill bit and went around the outside of the old bushing and "cut" the old rubber bushing out. A bench vise and a large socket worked to press the 4x4parts.com bushings in. I picked up the bolts from the dealer and they were $$ but I bought extras just to be sure. One thing I would do differently is spend the extra money and buy the Split bushings and not the one piece ones that I bought. I had to shave off a shoulder to get them to press in. It was a long process but got easier with each arm/press. The hardest part was lining up the axle on the second arm installation.