hawairish

Guess I'll be the guy to say it, but a lot of people here are interested to know how you went about accomplishing this, what kind of problems you ran into, materials, etc. The guys here want to dream a little, so do tell more. I take it you did a 6" SFD, 1" spacer, with the ACs. I also imagine your rack and pinion probably needed to be rotated significantly, and probably new/modified lines. Have you re-geared for the 35s?

Checked your brake fluid level or brake pads? BR-51 and BR-63 of the 2001.5 FSM also have some diagnostic steps to try.

Ah, sorry, I thought "garage at work" meant the shop where you work and was doing the install at. I was trying to figure out what kind of shop had such a low garage! Guess you mean the parking garage where you work. My bad.

Old tricks to diagnose or stop squeals (temporarily). Chalk, crayon/wax, baby powder, soap...

All you would need to do is find ways to lower the rear temporarily. You have a few easier options than pulling the rack: Deflate the tires a little and crawl out Borrow/find two wheels/tires (or donuts) from an older 2wd Frontier/HB (stocks were 26") Load up the rear with heavy stuff Compress the springs a little using ratchet straps to draw the axle closer to the chassis (take precautions here) You can obviously do these up front, too (except loading it up), but only if you need more clearance. Good luck.

The last time I thought I could revive an idler pulley, I was only buying time. It soon grenaded on me. Nothing like losing power steering mid-drive. Two; the power steering pump tensions its belt. Since the top idler is only for the AC belt, you should be able to just leave the belt off, start it up, and see if your squeal goes away. If it doesn't, it's probably the other idler.

Word. I only asked because I've gotten some Sirius freebies in the past while buying used radios. Though you had acquired a subscription when you bought it.

Is it your account, though? (Not that I have any conscience about whether it is or isn't...free Sirius is free Sirius ) Thanks for the clarification on the port install.

Also, assuming you change the module, how will you transfer the subscription? I think you'd have to call them up and give them the new ID, and I would think they'd ask for some account details. Unless you plan to get your own subscription... If you can get to the module, it would be very easy to try a different antenna just to rule that out.

Gotcha. What's a "Port" install? And I think the harness p/n is on that link I put, except it's been supercedes to B8377-5W900. Both seem available from courtesyparts.com. A Google for that p/n has a write-up for installing satellite in a 350Z...I imagine all those parts are interchangeable.

I don't doubt it's OEM...the Owner's Manual references it a few times, including its operation on 4-22. But, seeing as satellite radio was still pretty new a decade ago, I doubt many R50s have it. I think the p/n is B8046-CR011, superseding the p/n found here: http://nissanpartspeople.com/product/Pathfinder/2004/Pathfinder%20Audio/Satelite%20Radio There are several "Infinit Nissan satellite radio" results on eBay, including a recently-ended auction for the p/n above. I see mention of the Clarion above in previous posts, but it's not clear to me if you found the actual satellite module. The p/n and Sirius ID would be on the module's labels, at least according to all the pics on eBay. But what's the hiccup? I don't think a new(er) module will help...satellite tech is satellite tech: it doesn't exactly change much or fast (seeing as it requires sending new satellites up and possibly obsoleting others). I'm sure they can update firmware, but I'd be certain it stays backwards compatible with older devices. If you're receiving anything that resembles satellite, including the Preview channel if you didn't have a valid subscription, you're in good shape. If it was a bad module, I'd expect an all-or-nothing experience (assuming the radio even recognized the device). I'd start by checking the antenna cable and seeing it's gotten pinched or worn along the way. Many features like these probably get added by the dealership instead of at the factory, so they're not loomed with other wires. Cracks to the antenna jack may also cause a loose connection. I think the antenna module is also sealed, so check for that.

Ah yes, I see there's a trim kit (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120957417/Metra-95-7417-Dash-Kit.html?tp=3121). Still, pretty cheap. Well, thought I'd try anyway. You'd be surprised how easy it is...you just match up the cable colors. Butt connectors are a fine approach, though soldering and heat-shrink tubing is my preference. For me, I also absolutely refuse to have any shop install any equipment. Major a trust issue. A long time ago, we saw a pattern between my buddies' and my vehicles...we all bought something from a shop (at different times) only to have it stolen very soon after. The way I see it, some dude knows what equipment you have, what your car looks like, what alarm you've got (if any), how things are installed (and easily uninstalled)...all he needs is an address (which, from my experiences, they've asked for). Naturally, if you can avoid giving that final piece, you're better off. I've had my share of stolen systems, which is why I don't go gonzo on them anymore. I recommend using security screws to attach the radio to the truck. Styles like snake-eyes, pinheads (Torx, Hex, Phillips), tri-way, and multi-node are good examples. It's not to prevent stealing the radio; it's to promote further damage when stealing said radio. I'd rather some fk-face destroy my dash to steal my radio--and possibly damage the radio so that no one can use it--than allow him to easily steal it. I want him to work for it so that the damage far exceeds my deductible so I don't end up having to eat it by not filing a claim at all. When my insurance company determines it'll cost $2K to repair/replace everything, they'll apply my deductible, cut me a check, and I'll profit from the hassle when I do the repairs/replacement myself. (Or, if I can't do the repair/replacement, the cost is covered.) But that's just me.

Couldn't resist... http://www.crutchfield.ca/Nissan_Antenna_Adapter_Diversity_antenna_to_Motoro_p/12040ni10.htm Antenna adapter. They have other flavors; this one has an extra female socket (the smaller one) in case you wanted to chain another FM device, like Satellite radio module or FM-tuner. Others are 1:1. Some kits come with both the aftermarket-to-OE connections (shown) and the OE-to-aftermarket (for putting your stock radio in another vehicle, for whatever reason) for about the same price. http://www.crutchfield.ca/Metra_70_7550_Wire_Harness_for_Nissan_Infi_94_up_p/120707550.htm Metra's are of good quality, but they're really all the same, and they fit a ton of other Nissans. http://www.scosche.com/oem-amp-interface-80wx4 This is used for wiring up the Bose amp, if you have it and plan to use it. Crutchfield sells one that already has the above wiring harness connected. But since all the wires are color coded, and all they do is butt-crimp them...it's a bit pricey for what you get. This does not need any power source. Unless you think you'll need to constantly tune your speaker outputs, you can just tune it once and tuck the module under the radio. For guys switching to a single-DIN unit, you can find pockets or delete panels for other Nissans for cheap. I'd avoid some of the generic pockets. All are easy finds on eBay and Amazon.

Ha, not that it would've been a terrible thing if you did...just not in that color. I both miss and don't miss my Jeep. Fun vehicle, but too impractical. No one would rent me a trailer because of the soft top...I remember arguing how stupid it was while pointing to a f*ck1ng Prius in the lot with a trailer attached...liability my @$$. The doors don't stay open (really really annoying on even the tiniest slopes or with a little wind); kits to "fix" that start at $50. I replaced the hood latches because there's no locking mechanism, and at highway speeds, you can see and feel the hood fluttering (pucker moment every time). But it was fun driving around without the doors and top...except you couldn't make stops to buy things for fear of someone pulling a five-finger discount on your goods that can't be hidden anywhere without dropping big bucks on an aftermarket trunk. I did make and save a lot of money buying and selling Jeep take-offs, though. Oh, those Jeepers. What more do you need for your radio? You should only need an antenna adapter, wiring harness, and Scosche OEA-4 (if you have and plan to keep the Bose amp). All of those are dirt cheap. It will attach to your OE brackets; no kit required. I replaced my Bose unit with a single-DIN Pioneer; took maybe 30 mins to solder up the connections on my workbench, then another 30 to install...all plug-and-play. I say DIY. Let me know if you want pics or links for parts...I can pull my stuff out easily and show you what you need and need to do. Very very easy. You'll probably find that the Pioneer's matching blue color is tough to see during the day, even with its Dimmer mode off. (My Pioneer unit also has all 200K+ colors.) I almost can't read the screen. I recently did all my LEDs to blue, too, and it all looks great at night, but not being able to see the radio during the day has me wanting to try a different dash color. Oh, and my mysterious rattle...also a loose upper shock mount! I was able to tighten mine further and no more noise. Go figure.

I wouldn't recommend welding the diff if you have any intention of using it as a daily driver. You will eat up tires or break things. Every time you go around a corner, one wheel needs to rotate faster than the other. With it welded, you'll have a lot of wheel hop and chirping (and it'll be squirrelly when it's wet out). It's acceptable on loose terrain where traction can break, but on roads, something else will break. As for the sticker, it's orange and usually wider than it is tall, says to use LSD oil.

I agree. The 2005 FSM has an entire section dedicated to the brake control. While it does suggest checking harnesses, it does also indicate that all three lights being on indicates a malfunction. Probably wouldn't hurt to read through it and to get some ideas of possible causes. The FSM reminded me that even trivial items, like a tire with low pressure, or different tire in a set (i.e., 1 tire different from the other 3), could even set it off. Tiny details from various sensors. For my WRX, there was a tiny delay in the brake switch signal...the car was sensing the braking of the car before the brake pedal was being applied...equals "does not compute".

Do you have the FSM? They're pinned both here and at the NICO forum. It'll be in there.

Shot in the dark here, but I had an issue like that on a non-Nissan vehicle (08 Subaru WRX) and the problem was a bad brake pedal sensor (switch). The traction control module basically had some conflicting information between it and the various other sensors, and consequently disabled those systems (in my case, all traction related lights, 3-4 of them, came on). The take-away is there's probably a faulty sensor that is disabling the systems (or at least indicating a problem). I would think the FSM might indicate what the condition is.

I'd think there's enough give for a 1" spacer...one I saw on eBay showed it with stock tubes. Pull the trigger on a VG33ER swap.

Assuming the pattern isn't changed on pre-facelifts, it's basically the pattern to pull the codes, but with one additional step (that escapes me). I think it was just turning the key to OFF (starting the truck sets it into O2 sensor test modes). This is the fastest way to reset the ECU. But I think the battery can be disconnected for some length of time. After the ECU is reset, there is a driving pattern that needs to be performed set the ECU's "readiness state", but it's usually addressed over several prolonged driving events. (But in my case, I needed to do the pattern to pass emissions.) It was a lot different on my 98 Frontier...it required turning a tiny screw (potentiometer) in an access hole on the ECU itself. I eventually broke the screw off while it was in diagnostic mode...not a good thing. I conveniently had a thumb-wheel potentiometer handy, and soldered that in...it made setting the modes a breeze going forward. That's when I also figured out that the truck was capable of learning. If I flogged it after the reset, I had much better throttle response (even under casual driving), but lower MPG regardless of my driving style. If I drove moderately after the reset, MPG went way up (4-6 MPG, easily) for casual driving, but it felt dogged under WOT. The air filter on the KA24DE is also atop the engine/TB, so it just has a long tube going to the resonator (re: my cheap plastic reference previously). I pulled the resonator, re-mounted the air temp sensor (the MAF is integrated into the TB), and reset. I never put a K&N on that truck; just pulling the resonator and resetting the ECU was noticeable enough (and $50 was better spent on alcohol back then). Not sure about TB spacers. My impression from the inter webs is that they weren't very beneficial. I recall a lot of chatter about them for both the KA and VG Frontiers back in the day. There might be some logic to reducing any turbulence on the air, but I think it's more pertinent for forced-air vs. NA setups. Seems to me that some sort of velocity stack would be more promising than a spacer.

Well put, gv280z. I guess that's what it boils down to...brand name and brand loyalty. Aside from airlines, though, neither of those matter much to me personally, but I'm certain they do for others.

I stopped messing with intake stuff a while ago. My past few vehicles (08 WRX, 08 Wrangler) and now PF have had drop-in K&N filters, and that's about it. They've always felt better (sound improvements aside), though maybe it's just all in my head. I've also always reset my ECU when installing it, so that the ECU can detect any changes in air flow.

But for $300 bucks, is it worth it? Weapon-R has a system for half that made for 3.3L PFs (p/n 804-118-101, http://www.amazon.com/Weapon-R-804-118-101-Dragon-Intake-Polished/dp/B000ED23OO). Slap a conical K&N on it, and make a simple heat shield, and boom...K&CDN_S4 CAI.

$10 on eBay, free shipping. Search "261530W001".

The part number is on the page; you can take it to any Nissan Dealer and they can order it for you. Check eBay, too.