hawairish

Can't believe I didn't think about doing it that way, too! See, that rivet tool comes in handy, doesn't it?

Well, yes, but different pinion (rack & pinion vs. ring & pinion)

I'll pass. But good luck on the group buy!

Yes, but at the same time wanted it back a little to reduce the angle of the PHB bushings. Also getting the spring perches centered-up and squared so that the springs don't want to push outward. That all said, it actually seems like the ideal solution might be a small increase in length on the lower arm, and a larger increase on the upper arm. Correct, you want to net-out the angles on our driveshafts, since this minimizes acceleration/deceleration that the driveshaft can see. Driveshafts with constant-velocity joints don't need this, though.

For the trailing arms, I'm going to try a set of OE lengths first. The purpose there is to have a stronger set of lower arms. But with the approach I'm taking, I'm also hoping to have an inexpensive answer to poly bushings. They will not use OE-size bushings. But custom length arms go beyond wheel centering. They're also for correcting driveshaft and pinion angles. Lengthening a pair, or even lengthening both (by same or different lengths) may not improve anything. Depends on the link setup. I've not crunched the numbers, but I think we would benefit most by only a longer length upper arm. This would effectively tilt the axle back, center the wheel, and make the pinion and driveshaft more inline with each other. On up-travel, axle would stay centered...doesnt seem like it would, but it's entirely related to where all the link mounts are as the axle travels.

Woodward Steering up in WY. I can give you the p/ns for the joints, but there's a separate shaft which I can only estimate the length for now.

Thanks! There are also a few mounts meant for bikes/motorcycles that use ram/ball mounts. The bracket I used allows for simple bolt on of those mounts, but I found those parts to be a little expensive and bulky. And if not cranked down, the phone will move when off-roading.

My brain's working OT on it...hope to have something nice and comprehensive in the coming weeks.

Ok, so my mind went nuts on this topic over the weekend. I'm moving things forward (as best as I can with weekly work travel for the near future, anyway), since some others have been PM'ing me. I ordered a pair Moog 80145 springs. $46 shipped from Amazon (Prime). They are for an 03-07 4Runner. OME coils shares fitment with 03-10 4Runners and all FJs, btw. These have a 190 lbs/in spring rate, same(ish) free height as stock (and OME), and ID of 5.34" (vs 5.06"). I plan to build a bolt-on "top hat" adapter that supports a lower spring isolator and clip to prevent coil fall-out. Since this may net about 6" of lift, I have a similar plan to use 2nd Gen 4R Moog springs for something more moderate (and spec'd near OE R50 spring rate). I also ordered a set of poly bushings as inexpensive option for use in beefier, custom-length trailing arms. And then, not to blow smoke up anyone's arse, I have a design for a lower strut adapter. It would net a little over 3", allow for camber adjustment, move the spring perch way up, and not prohibit use of lift springs or strut spacers. 7" of lift would not be out of the question. Of course, this means nothing without subframe spacers...and needless to say, I have a redesign that may make a 6" subframe spacer practical and provide necessary lateral support. Stay tuned, of course...

All in time

May as well add another. The OE socket location is that flat spot about 8" from where you installed it, at about the 4 o'clock position. You may actually have a pigtail back there already.

Virgil, did you know about the OE location? I thought they all came standard anyway.

No sweat, man, I don't mind paraphrasing. A lot of newcomers aren't aware of the power that is the "FSM". It is the official Nissan service guide, and is what Nissan techs reference...and being free, that's awesome (they used to cost hundreds!)

Well, I have a sawzall, but using that doesn't seem like fun. (I'll have a cut-off soon enough, but not for cutting springs) The springs in mind are from a 3rd or 4th Gen 4Runner, or any FJ Cruiser. The ID of the rear springs is around 5"-5.5" and pigtails around 3-3/8" from what I've researched. We're 5" ID. To put things in perspective... OE R50 springs (Moog 81115) are spec'd at 14.3" free-height @ 120 lbs/in spring rate. OME R50 springs are 14.3"@ 140 lbs/in. OE rear FJ is 14.9" @ 180-190 lbs/in. OE 3rd Gen 4R (particularly MY99, the "tall year") is 16.25" @ 150 lbs/in. OME 896 (HD for an FJ) measured 15-1/8" with an ID of 5-1/16" per a local seller this morning; OME specs at 15.35" @ 318 lbs/in. (This would be a rough ride empty...but loaded up, probably rock solid. Important part is that ID he gave). Assuming for a moment that both ends fit our perches, it's clear we'd get appreciable lift from any OE 4R/FJ spring simply because of the spring rate and free height. Add 2" for having to mount the pigtail on a perch. Now we're in the ballpark of 4"-6" of lift, without cutting. There are tons of spring options for those vehicles, including a few variable-rate springs. OME springs are the same price as ours, but OE Moog springs are $50/pair..."lift" springs for 25% of what OME's cost? Yes, please! So anyway, there's where my mind is at.

There's that of course, but then again there's also the means to cut them. Of all the cutting tools I do have, even I don't have something suitable to do it. Nothing a cheap HF cut-off couldn't solve of course. I think I may have a suitable replacement that's available off-the-shelf and has several options, including variable spring rates, and is for a far more popular vehicle than the WJ. By my numbers, OE springs could net 4", and lift springs that much more. A guy in my area has a set handy, so hoping I can pick them up over the weekend.

For what it's worth, I've been trying to mock-up rear lift items for a more comprehensive SFD package, since I'm in need of a little more rear lift. The WJ springs are a reasonable approach, but I'm not sure how many people are willing to buy new springs and immediately cut them down. I'm still researching other non-spacer solutions. I'm also hoping to have a work estimate to get some trailing arms welded up, as well as quotes for some other parts. Hopefully I can help you out down the line.

I use a specific bracket for a JK and a case+holster for my phone of choice. http://www.quadratec.com/products/17017_005.htm http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Seidio-Kickstand-Holster-Samsung/dp/B00PF9KIAS The bracket fits with a trivial amount of bending, mounts using a radio bracket bolt. I drill out the rivet on the holster and bolt it to the mount (I also retain the mechanism that allows it to rotate) using a small socket flathead bolt and nylock. Since the phone clips into the holster, it's not going anywhere.

What's your offer?

Does the Q have a LSD? What gears in both? A lot of people would be interested in seeing how the coilovers turn out. No real recommendations for the engine except some of the "while you're at it..." advice. I'm not terribly familiar with the 3.3L, but you'll get plenty of advice here I'm sure.

I think I found my answer: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/4449-aux-button/

No sweat man! It'll be a fun project, I'm excited for you. Don't forget, too, that it'll be a good time to change out a lot small maintenance parts and make things as fresh as possible. I might suggest the rear main seal on the engine (I presume you're pulling the transmission, too, or just the t-case?), the u-joints on the drive shafts, and boots on the CVs. Seals and gaskets for the front axle. Transmission mount. Ball joints. Yada yada.

And I totally applaud that mindset! I hear you on the leather...me: black leather in AZ. Aside from being hot to the touch, it makes my ass sweat something awful! It'll be a cool project for you, but keep a couple things in mind with this particular donor: the transfer case is an auto-mode, and is actually a bit different than the part-time 4wd t-cases found on many other Nissan's. You'll need to also transfer over a few electronic modules and wiring harnesses for this one, and depending on the year, you may need a different dash bezel to accommodate the selector switch. You could do an engine swap to the QX4, and swap all the seats (not sure what interior colors you've got, and if it'd look tacky). But if that QX4 has the 3.5L, you're losing out on a rather decent HP improvement. Just some things to keep in mind. Either way, keep us posted and good luck!

Actually, there is support. Check out Kyle's response and pics in the other thread. The reason I didn't attempt to reinforce it is because of the angles that the blind nuts will be at relative to each other...there's a slight opposition to each one, so that alone adds rigidity. Plus, the bottom corner of the quarter panel has a structurally-sound shape that helps the cantilever. Also, I believe one of the steps on my stepper bit ended up being near-perfect for the blind nuts. I did also buy a 13.5mm bit, but it didn't hold up well.

I came across a radio bezel from a 99 QX4 2wd on eBay (link). Anybody have any idea what that AUX switch is for? I could find some use for that switch, but I can't find any parts reference to it. I may be able to find it if I can tell what component that controlled. And if anyone else has this style bezel but with a pocket where those switches are, and switches where that square blank is, the part number for that is 68485-5W400. The square blank is 68493-4W100. I like this particular style because the pocket is useless to me, and that square blank is some additional real estate for custom switches, mounts, etc.

Does that QX4 not run? Seems like you'd want to just use that instead, no?