hawairish

Yeah, it adds up pretty quickly if you want to start fresh with new parts. Another option is to get a donor LSD and repurpose parts of it. All the H233B LSDs used the same parts, so in theory, you could get an older W/D21 diff and salvage the parts from it. No guarantees it'll boost your numbers, but good possibility it'll help. The R50 diffs were rather weak to start with.

Check the rotor runout. They are out-of-spec at 0.1mm/0.004".

You can get them from any Nissan parts dealer. I got mine from courtesyparts.com, but there are plenty others. When I did my project last year, a few sizes were on national backorder or otherwise NLA (er, no longer available). All the part numbers are in the FSM, and the pieces run about $35/ea...not cheap when you generally will swap them in pairs for this project. Ideally, you don't just add pieces, but instead swap pieces out depending on the configuration and specs of your specific LSD. Unfortunately, you can't really know what to replace until you know what's in it. The FSM does indicate the specific configuration for your model, but it doesn't tell you the thickness of each plate, since that spec is "adjustable" by using thicker or thinner pieces. It also doesn't have a means to determine what thickness will equate to what breakaway torque...that is very much trial-and-error. W/D21s had mid-to-high 200 ft-lb breakaway torques, which I've understood as being streetable. The pair I rebuilt ended up and 180 ft-lbs and 170 ft-lbs, but it was relatively easy to hit 300 ft-lbs (I stayed at those lower numbers because I needed to ration my parts and build two similar LSDs). Both have performed quite well. My take on things: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40280-was-the-factory-lsds-breakaway-torque-any-good/?p=758726

I've been running Iridium IX for about 16 months now...no complaints, though I feel like I'm running rich...hopefully not from an underburn. I plan to pull everything from the valve covers and up to do some maintenance in the coming weeks (I think my TPS is on its way out, too). Will see how they've held up at that point. Installed Laser Platinums in duke90's truck a few months ago. Haven't heard any performance complaints either.

You could've told that 2nd mechanic to "stick it" because he doesn't know what he's dealing with. I think we need more details. Thesystem has its own brains, so if something is malfunctioning, it'll trigger some lights on the cluster. Does it do anything when you turn the switch (lights, noise, etc.)?

Front is a little tougher. You'll have to unbolt the CVs (don't have to remove them, just unbolt them from the axle), unbolt the axle housing from the hangers, then work the axle down. The axle (rather, the housing and the diff) has an awkward balance in all directions and working space is limited. I use a floor jack and a pair of jack stands to ease it down in stages. And to clarify comments above and your options...if you have the HG46 and the donor is HG43 -or- you have HG43 and the donor is HG46 -and- you want to keep the gears you have, then you'll have to put the LSD diff into your 3rd member and re-use your rear gears (front diff can be left alone). Otherwise, what XPLORx4 mentioned is accurate.

Very possible, very easy if the gears are the same. If gears are different, there's a little bit of set-up required. Otherwise, it's completely bolt-on.

Awesome, glad to hear! Thanks for the update.

How long ago was that posted? Found him, but not anything about that project. I'm not into FB enough to really dig any further. He seems to like red spray paint overspray. But I like the stance he's got.

Sounds like someone hacked some circuits. I'd start by pulling the switch console down and checking for gremlins, and maybe some continuity checks on the switches.

Yeah, I can't imagine those being a comfortable ride considering they're almost 4x the spring rate of OE coils, not to mention for an IRS. But, if you can find an extra 400lbs of cargo, I bet it'll be pretty good in all honesty. Of course, that's not an ideal scenario. Don't forget you've got a fellow NPORA'r who's selling a set of new coils for quite a bargain...check the For Sale section.

Does seem pretty sketch. Any more details on how they overcame the original issue of making it steerable?

Wow, that's some incompetence. Sounds almost deliberate...

Same guys that did the strut bearings?

I think it's just poor choice for a "generic" pic on that item. http://www.automotix.net/usedautoparts/1986-nissan-d21_pickup-upper_control_arm-inventory.html

The 2610 is for the rear of an R51, not an R50.

Not sure I've ever seen a rating, but the I would imagine the weakest link is the cross bars, not the rails themselves. The roof in general should be very capable of supporting several hundred pounds (thinking in terms of a vehicle rollover), and the rails are also quite rigid. It also depends on which roof rack and cross bars came with your truck. That said, if you can make a suitable platform to mount the tent to that distributes the weight along the rails, and also isn't a risk for ripping off from wind/drag, I don't think you'd have a problem. If you've seen any of the posts about mounting a roof basket lower to the roof using steel channel nuts and strut channels, that'd probably be where I'd start in terms of mounting a tent. FWIW, I have the newer style roof rack (full upper rails, thick oval cross bars) and I've carried 280 lbs of Ikea 8' countertops on it. I've also carried lumber up there (16 8' 2x4s is about where I've limited myself, and that's about 200 lbs)

When all else fails, there's always a BFH eagerly waiting its turn. Head to nissanpartsdeal.com, enter your 96 VIN, and go to Power Train > Speedometer Pinion. It should return the part number of what came with the vehicle. Won't tell you what color it is, and it's looking like 19T may have been the only option anyway. A long time ago, I recall seeing a table that paired all that info...but that was a long time ago. Could always throw the 92 sensor in and take it for a spin with a GPS. If the GPS says you're going faster than the speedo, go down a tooth. Speedo faster than GPS, up a tooth. It's also possible to calculate the new tooth count to account for tire size and gearing changes, since it's all just ratios.

I hear ya. Though, neither have really given me too much grief. No conversion kits, but an option involving WD21 Pathfinder brakes. Won't go into detail about it here, but will post something up about it soon.

Yes, brake clicking is abnormal. Sounds like you got them adjusted properly, though. Seeing as the amount of movement from any part during braking small (aside from drum rotation), hard to think of anything coming into new contact repetitively. Can you get a pic up? Maybe something else might stand out? Have you tried swapping the drums, just to rule those out?

It's not for everyone, but I like it! I always wanted to get a set of half or tube doors for my Jeep, seeing how easy it was removing the doors in general. It's a bit more complicated on a Pathfinder, though, but you've got the right idea...good job! Considering any coverings, like maybe some thick clear vinyl and snap-clips/Velcro/magnets?

The wave washer should have no impact. It's a non-factor when brake pressure is applied by the wheel cylinder, and is pretty much negligible when applying the parking brake anyway. Sorry, I meant that the pic is of the LH side, but I digitally mirrored the image so that it would look like the RH side (note "Nissan" on the wheel cylinder is mirrored). I just happened to have that pic handy for reference. When you put the drums on, and right before fully seating it on the wheel hub, do you have a lot of play between the drum and shoes? You mentioned adjusting the adjuster, but did you completely loosen the brake shoes, or are the shoes close to the drum surface? By "clicks rotationally", you mean "click-click-click-click-click" when normal braking is applied? You didn't have to open the fluid lines for anything, right? Since you mentioned that gentle braking has no impact, does it feel like it takes longer to engage?

Sorry, can't answer whether the 96 fits the 92, but since the 96 does also have a gear, perhaps it needs to be swapped onto the replacement VSS? In that case, sounds like the new VSS wouldn't be necessary if you can get the 96 one out (and presuming it fits). Perhaps some penetrating oil, slight hammer taps, and time will help?

A few questions: When do you hear the clicking noise (while turning the drum manually; while driving; while applying the brakes; etc)? Do you have the noise when just applying the parking brake? When you took everything apart, did you do both sides at the same time, or just one side at a time? (The adjusters are side-specific, in case everything got mingled together.) Are all the springs seated, and installed in the right direction? (One spring has a particular orientation) Is the star adjuster lever thingy seated properly? Did you grease any of the friction points on the brake backing plate? Can you get a pic...or does it look like this? (The pic is actually of the LH side, image is mirrored...and ignore the floating wheel studs in back...it's magic!)

True for the 3.3L, but he's got the 3.5L, which uses individual coil packs. Sliderslider, are two with M ohms a different brand by chance? Not sure if it makes a difference, and in the FSM, I only see that a 0-ohm reading is no-good; everything else is ok.