hawairish

If you abuse it, sure. Or likely in conjunction with too much lift, but that's a failure with the lift, not the locker. Never had a problem with the Lokka when I had it, and now with an ARB, it's no different. Doesn't matter the vehicle or the locking method, there are a lot of CV-busting things you shouldn't do. Gunning it up a rock is one of them...it's when it abruptly catches traction is when you should expect something to break.

Would he need to remove the thrust block in the diff for the swap? Changing the outer grease seal requires completely disassembling the axle shaft assembly...which requires a press, and is a lot of work for a $1 part and likely warrants changing out the bearings while you're in there. Definitely change out the inner oil seal at the end of the tube...noting that I've had to destroy them to remove them. Lastly, there's a large o-ring on the outer lip of the axle tube that should be replaced.

EL-49 in the 94 FSM says it's NO and that it interrupts the wiper motor relay. Not sure how much the design has changed on the wiper motor assembly, but I had this problem on my 04. The wiper motor assembly housing (which houses the switch) had a crack in it that reduced its rigidity, and ultimately prevented the wiper arm from fully seating in the plastic rest below the window. It was just enough to not close the circuit. I wrapped the housing tightly with gaffers tape and haven't had the problem since.

Posted a reply on NICO, but to recap here, your 2wd has a 2-piece driveshaft that uses a center support bearing, common to all RWD Nissans cars and trucks. They even used the same part across the board, p/n 37521-6P026. OEM replacements can be had for $25-$40, and it's a straightforward job. I'd pull the driveshaft down first and confirm it spins freely.

Sorry, meant this as a statement, not a question.

Where were they tight? Did you push the pistons back into the calipers before installing the new pads? A dab of brake lube on the retaining clips is also good. The caliper assembly should be able to move freely on the pins, which is best tested with the pads removed?

Welcome back!

Sounds like a short in the LED bulbs. Put the OE ones back in and see if the problem goes away.

Yeah, it'd be nice if they mounted to the OE step locations, but not the case. But yes, your bolt count sounds about right according to the post jyeager linked. However, my RRO sliders are like Rick13's in that thread, where mine have 3 attachment legs (6 bolts) and I think two pinch-seam bolts. Either way, yes, you need to drill into the unibody to mount them. Did you receive large self-tapping bolts with them? That's supposedly the original attachment method, though I'm not a fan of it. However, I put the truck on them a few times the other weekend, and they held up very well.

Oh well. Just needed something for measurements...

Did you replace the arms completely, or just change out the bushings? If the former, got your old arms available?

Gotcha, 2wd. The difference in tire sizes causes the ABS tone rings at each corner to spin at different rates. The truck expects all of the sensors to be returning the same signal frequency, but the front tires are rotating faster than the rears, and the system believes that your front tires are slipping so can't proportion the brakes properly and throws a code.

Agreed. That's how I read it. Shouldn't do it even if not in 4wd...it'll confused the ABS system.

This was on my 4-cyl Frontier. Had a noise, not so much a grind as it was an occasional screech/squeak, but I knew the bearings on an idler pulley were getting a little worn. At the time, though, replacement bearings and pulleys weren't available, not even from Nissan (later determined that a 240SX bearing fit, but different pulley despite similar engine). Best I could do was pull it and try to inject some grease. But, while driving (and making a turn, no less), instantly lost power steering when the bearing grenaded, shooting steel balls everywhere. Sounded like a glass bottle had exploded under the hood. The sound and the steering feedback...I damn near shat my pantalones. Will need someone to rev it up...drive by wire; no throttle cable.

Hopefully it's something external to your engine. Not sure it'd be the transmission if it occurs in park. Check that all your pulleys are tight, yet spin freely. Any slight grinding from them, and the bearings may be ready to go. It's not fun when one of those grenades on you (ask me how I know). Checking may require removal of the belts. May make sense to change the belts while you're at it...but if you suspect a bad pulley, just re-use the current belts so that if it fails, it won't damage a new belt. Having an extra helper to throttle it will you listen under the hood helps, of course.

Those are the OME HD coils. You'll have to ask AC why they don't advertise them, and many other parts, as such. Breaking down their part numbers... SPAME928...Spring, Pathfinder, Old Man Emu, p/n 2928 is their heavy-duty spring. SPOME923...Spring, Pathfinder, Old Man Emu, p/n 2923 is their medium-duty spring. SPOME921...Spring, Pathfinder, Old Man Emu, p/n 2921 is their light-duty spring. All 3 springs have the same spring rate (200 lbs/in), just different free lengths. See here. The $167 they charge it almost exactly what everyone else sells OME springs for, but a few places offer free shipping. The $180 spring is the 2" AC spring.

Bearing: Race: Bearing driver kit you can rent from just about any parts store for $0 (you buy it with a refundable deposit): My recommendation before you dive into changing them is to spray off all the grease with some brake cleaner, then roll them by hand. If they feel jerky or rough, they should be replaced. HF has a cheap dial indicator for checking runout to see if your rotors are worn or warped.

Lol. Cojones mas grandes. I really wish we had a video or better pics of the final obstacle. That was something awesome. Basically about 150' of 1.5'-2' boulder steps. I ended up getting hung up a couple times when the slick rock shifted the truck, but eventually wormed up it. It did a number on my front skid plate... Already got plans for a new one. Here's the video of the obstacle just ahead of where the Xterra and I are waiting in that first pic: I was with 2nd Gen Frontier CC and Xterra Pro-4X trucks, so they only had rear lockers. They struggled a bit over the 2nd boulder...what you can't see was a deep sandy spot that was just robbing traction for both front and rear tires. What I lacked in ground clearance, I made up on traction, but it's time for more lift.

Went on a kick-off run for two local Nissan groups to a trail called Hackberry Creek. Three of us opted for a more-difficult trail, and it was great. Skids, sliders, and lockers were a must. Heavy overnight rains turned much of the trail into waterways, and near-freezing temps and wind kept things interesting. Definitely bent at least one trailing arm, the front skid is a little more bowl-like, and the rear bumper is probably beyond repair. All the reason for a proper bumper, right??

Yep, it was a big issue, just for a different engine. @thorpe991: That seems like a pretty solid price, and those problems listed seem pretty trivial. There are definitely some upgrades available for it. Any issues with the title? Has the timing belt been serviced? Do you have an OBD scanner that you can use to check for any stored codes, or to confirm that it has passed its Readiness Tests (assuming that a clever seller hasn't recently reset them, or pulled the SES bulb)?

Not a problem on this truck. That started with MY05 trucks.

I have the R200A ARB locker that used to be on that truck. Amazing the transformation it's gone through. He's got a few other good posts on Nissan4Wheelers.com.

Man, that looks like a fun day! So, about the SAS...I think this is one scenario where IFS is actually better, mainly because the axle and diff can be well above the centerline of the tires (with the right amount of lift). Maybe what you really need is a miniature plow on your skid that pushes snow into your tracks for better flotation. I also couldn't help but notice how flat your LCAs are, though...almost even looks like your crossmember is lower than the LCAs in some pics. I thought you had a little more lift than SFD height? @Snowboarder12345: interesting thought about the WD21 grafting since there are SAS kits now. But surely too much work when you think about what's required just to get a donor frame, and then still have to SAS that. In my opinion, I think the R50 chassis is already prime for 4- or 5-link SAS. Remove a few bolts and disconnect some hoses, and it's like a clean slate. Then, a custom subframe to add motor mount perches, steering box mount, panhard drop, etc. That's how I'd approach it, anyway.

Picked off 3 buckets-worth of dried mud from the underbody and wheelwells from last weekend's excursion. That's what was left after power washing some of it the other day. Still need to power wash it again.