hawairish

Yes, there are adapters. However, to clear the front hubs on your truck, that adapter would need to be fairly thick, probably at least 2” to clear fixed hubs and several more to clear manual hubs. I’d rule the option out.

Doubtful. Pro-4X trim implies 05+ Frontier (D40) or Xterra (N40) trucks, which have 6x4.5" lug patterns. Nissan trucks and SUVs up to 04 are 6x5.5". So, they won't fit.

Alright, we've been busy. Big batch of parts finally cut and cleaned up, ready for drilling and bending. Couple tweaks on parts from the last sets, most notably changes to the motor mount spacers. Same footprint, but more efficient piece with tons more tool access. In other news...I ordered another CNC plasma table last week. This one will increase cutting sizes to 48" x 33" (my current is 25" x 23", though I've not installed the kit that bumps it to 25" x 33"). This gets us a step closer to making bumpers and skids a reality. Still tons of things to think about in that regard, but since the table won't ship until January, we have some time to plan.

That reads like a power issue, not a ground. You can't get "5 volts because of the ground wire"...that doesn't make sense. No regular accessory circuit in the vehicle should be putting out 5v. There are 5v circuits on the truck, but those all have some other module (ECM, TCM, Smart Entrance Control Unit, etc.) at the head of it, and most of those circuits aren't powering a component; the lower voltage is usually to measure smaller voltage drops. Did you ever check the voltage going to some other contact point on the truck, or did you do a continuity check on the ground wire? Regardless, sounds like you should double check some wiring before introducing another electrical component on your truck. When the truck is on (engine off), all closed circuits should be putting out the same voltage as the battery, and there's a dozen places to confirm that. If that's not the case, you have an issue that needs addressing.

How do you get 5v on a 12v (14v) system, let alone that from a ground wire? I think only the interior light circuits output 5v when the lights are off. I use those cheap voltmeters everywhere. Super simple to install. Two in my truck (one under the radio and another at the rear by a separate power panel), plus one on a recent battery/refrigerator project. The voltage is maybe ±0.1v compared to my equally-cheap voltmeters, but totally sufficient for my needs. The one under the radio is tapped off the nearby power socket, so only on when keyed to the ACC and ON position. The rear is on a dedicated switched circuit direct from the battery. As far as reading the battery when the truck's not running and running...well, it's just going to read either the battery (not running) or the alternator (running). But, I presume that's what you actually want?

Hmm, yeah keep me posted. I think at some point long ago I took pictures of the bolts on the p/n labels and always wondered if I had transposed them. Either way, get whatever's cheaper. Not all the long bolts need to be cut, just where they interfere with something, like the sway bar links.

I agree that $50 is too much, but you won't find anything to match OE easily. Believe me, I've looked. The OE bolts are flanged M14 x 1.5 x 80mm (not including those nubs at the end), and the nuts are PTLN flanges. You won't find flange bolts like that, unless you want to pay >$20/ea for some titanium ones. You can look for M14 x 2.0 and 9/16"-18 x 3.25" sizes, but you won't find them in comparable quality to OEM. Either the flange won't be available (not even sure it exists for 9/16"-18), it won't be zinc plated (plain or black-oxidized hardly offer much corrosion resistance), or the length (especially 3.25") will be tough to find. You can find hex bolt options no problem, if you're willing to change to flat washers. But look, forget all that. The FSM doesn't spec replacing the bolts...it only specs replacing the nuts. If anything, buy a couple or more of the short bolts (54368-0W02A) depending on how gnarly yours look and 8 of the PTLN nuts (08918-6441A). That way you follow spec, and have some bolts handy should you have to destroy them out (it happens when you round a nut) or the threads get boogered. Short bolts are $2/ea and nuts $1/ea from nissanpartsdeal.com or courtesyparts.com (these are actual Nissan dealerships; use "nis10" at Courtesy for a discount). The long bolts (55080-0W00B) are what drive the cost up, at $6/ea, and they have those stupid shear-offs that prevent fitment in some places...avoid them.

Welcome to the group. Honestly, my vote would be to basically leave it mostly stock. Do whatever maintenance and repair is appropriate for the age, mileage, and condition of the vehicle, but upgrade a few things, then just enjoy it. Modifying the truck is a slippery slope and, frankly, there's not much for upgrades out there. It's a great truck as-is; goal number one is just getting—and keeping—it, on the road. If anything: Invest in a proper lift and suspension package: Old Man Emu springs, shocks, and struts. Great reputation, great ride and handling qualities, moderate lift. Pricey, but worth it. I wouldn't bother with spacers here, unless it's to help level out your stance...if you'll already be taking everything off the truck, just replace it the right stuff. Get some quality all-terrain tires in OE size (P265/70-15), or maybe upgrade to LT's or 31x10.5 if you think you'll have an inkling to venture off-road one day. If you like the stock look but want larger wheels (yours are 15x7), consider finding (or piece together) a set of 17x8 LE wheels from 01-04 Pathfinders or the 17x8 "Supercharger" wheels from 02-04 Frontiers/Xterras. Good looks without having to fuss with backspacing and center bore nuisances. If you're into tunes, upgrade the head-unit and/or speakers; maybe add an amp and sub. Anything else is going to requiring drilling, more wiring, and perhaps even custom fabrication. Not that I frown on that stuff, but if you're just getting into things and hoping for bolt-on stuff, you probably won't find it. I wouldn't go gonzo with a bunch of stuff you're probably not going to use, unless that's just part of the dream you're going for. I won't judge. If you plan to be in the vehicle for long trips, focus on maintenance, creature comforts, and roadside readiness, especially if you have passengers. Perhaps consider making some sort of storage/cargo unit for the rear to help keep gear and tools organized and accessible; add a reliable air compressor (I love having an on-board system, personally); or purchase a 12v fridge/freezer for those extended road trips (may require some other things, like a backup battery or fridge slide, etc.).

The spacer isn't visible (not sure what rubber grummet you speak of). The pic is of the bottom of the spacer, so it gets installed when the strut is assembled. If the spacer isn't installed, the non-keyed portion of the strut shaft will eventually dig into the metal insert of the mount and eventually allow for 1/2" of vertical play, which may also wallow out the hole over time.

If you're talking about the odd circular clips where the carpet folds over itself when the seat is up, I've popped at least one of them off before. I recall it being a little bit of trouble getting it to snap back on...it's more like a snap than a push-clip. I want to say I may have cracked it on accident and ended up gluing it back on...don't remember. Owner's manual says to not secure more than 22 lbs per cargo hook...so 88 lbs if using the floor hooks, supposedly. It includes the side and ceiling hooks, but I don't think I'd ever use those as cargo-tie downs; they just don't seem strong enough.

Thanks, noted. Yeah, there's no change at all. May just be because no matter how I try to escape, it's still hot out here. Road temps are probably over 125°F anyway.

Hopefully I'll see some numbers like that once the weather cools down a lot in a few months. An electric fan crosses my mind every now and then, but I don't want to deal with the wiring, temp sensors, and whatnot. I'm also not sure what to make of the mechanical fan after charging the system up...there was no change in vent temp when idling vs. driving. Should I have expected a slightly lower temp while driving? Seems like the fan is doing its job, no?

Way late reply on this. I had just been dealing with it, though I don't really drive often enough for it to be a problem. Today, I hooked up some gauges to the system and discovered that both high and low pressures were below spec. At a little above 100°F ambient today, max AC with recirc was putting out 80°F from the center vent. Definitely not normal. I had some cans of r134a laying around, so I thought I'd give recharging a try (never done AC work before). The FSM specs weren't terribly useful for my environment (high temp, low humidity) and the PSI ranges seemed very wide, and the discharge temps seemed way off, so I tried to determine some middle numbers to shoot for. Starting from around 25psi low and 210psi high, I pulled pressures up to 45psi and 360psi by adding around 8 ozs of refrigerant (spec. capacity is about 16oz), which produced a vent temp of 58°F...and what a difference that made running some errands today! The numbers are seemingly within spec now (as best as I can tell for not having numbers for my environment, anyway), but obviously I have some concerns about having to add that much to the system. For now, it'll have to do because I don't have time to look into it.

Yeah, glad you got it sorted. I came on tonight specifically to chime in here, but now I'm worthless. I do have a question, though...why does it look like your entire axle is rotated 10° counter clockwise? I don't recall things being nearly as tilted as they appear on your truck...in fact, I thought everything was pretty level (especially since the wheel cylinder bleeder valves need to be at the top; your setup looks like it could trap a little air). I don't have drum brakes for reference. Maybe your springs are just worn?

Does this truck have VDC or the proportioning valve? If there are two brake hoses coming down to the axle, it has VDC. Is the RH drum tough the remove? RH brake gets RH-thread adjuster.

@mandersen8 Saw on the FB that the missing link resolved the wobble.

I looked to do the opposite on my truck a few years ago...when I installed an aftermarket unit, I had no plans of retaining the steering controls. The switch seemed spotty anyway. So I bought an OE cover thinking I could just remove the controls and cover it, but when I did, a mounting tab or bracket interfered. Looking into the opening, I couldn't see any screws/bolts that suggested the bracket was easily removable, let alone whether it was a removable bracket at all. I didn't feel like dismantling the steering wheel housing to figure it out, so I just left it all intact. If your MY didn't have controls as an option in the first place, I'd say it seems like a lot of work and money for little gain. I like having the audio controls (only on the LH side of the wheel...why do car manufacturers put them on the RH side, 8" from the radio?), but reaching for the radio isn't the end of the world. Back in the day, I just always used a hand-held remote for the headunit; I still have head units with remotes, but I never use them any more.

No sweat. Look, we've all wanted our truck to be more than what it was at some point. Let's just get you the right information about what it is right now, so you know what you're working with. Even in stock form, a lot of people here will attest to its capabilities, so there's not really anything to be ashamed of. There's tons of information here that you won't find in any other Pathfinder forum, so don't let this experience deter you. As for the fogs, I may be able to help. Mine are still in the bumper cover that I removed last year, sitting on the side of the house. I was planning to incorporate them into the bumper I built, but I've abandoned that idea and just haven't told myself yet. I tend to hoard R50 parts for longer than I should. But anyway, explore your options and let me know if I can help.

Hopefully! But yeah, given some product decisions, we just need better and/or efficient ways to do things. Drilling holes is definitely not efficient, but it will be better. A larger and slower drill press was a must. Though, I did also buy another tiny flux core welder...probably not a must, but I couldn't resist. I've also been eyeballing a horizontal bandsaw...

A guy in town is selling one. I need another garage, first.

Whatever is going on with these replies, take it to Facebook or Instagram or wherever else because that bull@!*% doesn't belong here. @joshualaw205 My 04 has OE glass fogs. A p/n crossref shows fitment for 99-04 trucks. I suggest hitting a junkyard or eBay for options. LH: 26155-2W125 (full assembly, ~$182), 26159-2W100 (housing only, NLA) RH: 26150-2W125 (full assembly, ~$182), 26154-2W100 (housing only, NLA) You seem proud of the truck, but it seems like there's misinformation. You've acquired followers hell-bent on exploiting it, too. I'm not one, but the bottom line is that there weren't factory or dealer options for a rear locker, front LSD, special tow wiring, suspension lift, nor extended range fuel tank for any Pathfinder, probably ever. You could get an optional rear LSD, 4-pin trailer harness, and tire carrier on WD21 and R50, but that's about it. Even when your truck was new, those other items may not have existed at the time even in the aftermarket (they hardly exist now), and no way Nissan nor a dealership was pioneering upgrades like those. All US-destined R50s were made in Japan, so nothing unique there either. If you're interested in learning about what the truck does have, this is a good community for that. A "what is this?" or "is this stock?" thread may help answer some questions you (and apparently others) may have about your truck, but this thread isn't a good place for that sort of discovery. Maybe there are some customizations on the truck that we can help identify. @everyone else: Fellas, whether he's lying or misinformed, just offer information, insight, or correction and move on. Call a guy out if you have to, but have some tact; this isn't FB or IG. He seemed to have a genuine question about fog lights, and then things got stupid fast. If you can't contribute, don't reply.

Overdue thanks! I think that's a very likely possibility. Well...sorta. Things have been slow-moving, and my fault really...overworking at my regular job, working on a downright horrible Land Cruiser project, and a few other projects eventually just burned me out a bit. So, I took a vacation! Spent a few weeks driving around the country with my family, caught a few baseball games, visited family, and just put some miles on the new Telluride. Notably, I did spend one of those weeks on the road at my company's headquarters working...not that I really wanted to, but it saved me the trouble of having to fly back out there later and it was actually on the way home. Plus, the expense report paid for all my gas on the trip. It was a good way to clear my head. @TowndawgR50 and I haven't stopped chatting about things, and feeling a little refreshed now, we're ready to move forward again. After the first prototype sets were made a few months, we learned a few things and it's just been a matter of adjusting things to get the product we want. So we've tweaked the designs a little, purchased some more equipment, and are working on a few more tooling items before cutting the raw parts. The near term goal is to produce a small batch of kits and finally get them on the PNW Piners' trucks. Steering joints ordered already. The biggest change from the first kit is that we've decided to drill all bolt holes. The plasma cutter can cut small circles and can do it reasonably well, but it can't do it consistently well. So we're needing jigs to ensure we can mark all holes quickly and consistently, and while it'll be extra work drilling, we think it'll produce a cleaner product. It also gives us opportunities to use press in studs, which will simplify installation in a few places. I've got an expansion kit for the plasma table arriving this week. While it doesn't give us any massive cutting widths, it's a beneficial upgrade that I'm pretty stoked about nonetheless. No immediate need for it, but the need to do skids keeps surfacing, and there's a good possibility we may see if bumpers are viable.

Don't get me wrong, Dustin did some cool things to his truck and I've got respect for him. I just assert there is value to having a missing link. I'd even still advocate it on a non-SFD truck, especially as a means to attach a skid plate which, in addition to providing much-needed protection, also stiffens the subframe. All things said, I hope the ML solves your problem. Keep us posted.

I saw some of those posts, one from a former owner here. I totally disagree with him; a missing link is a must for SFD trucks...and not something made from angle-iron, rebar, or conduit; not rigid enough. Non-SFD trucks probably see less benefit because the subframe is no less rigid than the chassis it's directly bolted to. This is what our subframe looks like naked: Top Bottom As you can see, there's a single crossmember that only provides rigidity towards the front of the subframe. When it's bolted to the chassis without SFD, the chassis adds rigidity to the rear. When you move it away from the chassis via SFD, the rear of the subframe can flex. The missing link boxes in the subframe somewhat, reducing flex. Those damage pics are from my buddy's truck, @Jax99. His spacers are identical to mine...in fact, I had them made and I did that install several years ago, shortly after installing my own. The difference is that I've had a missing link and skid plate the whole time. He's since had the subframe replaced and the chassis repaired, with the blocks welded on in that spot and gusseted to the subframe, plus the truck now has my old missing link and skid plates. But wait, there's more...he recently struck a curb on the same side he had subframe damage. This is the difference of damage transfer when a missing link exists and the spacer is reinforced: For yours, I think you need similar gusseting. I'd say weld them to the top of the subframe if needed, but you may also need to consider a way to box in that 6"x2" tube.

In all likelihood, the source of the wobble is due to the weakening of the rear subframe mount on the unibody, induced by the narrow rounded top of the spacer, the height of the spacer, and the lack of a missing link. The unibody pad at the rear is just two thin layers of formed sheet metal with some nuts welded on. Your 2" wide spacers probably only have a contact area about 1.5" wide, and with rounded edges top and bottom. Being 6" tall creates leverage, too. Lacking a missing link allows the rear horns of the subframe to flex; the subframe may even already be cracked. The rear subframe also absorbs a lot of impact from the tires hitting the road or other objects. Of all things, the missing link is perhaps the most important part. I know you've got one ordered, but you should also consider some other lateral bracing because of the height of yours and low contact area on the spacer. The welds you've applied are not sufficient. This is what is possible without a missing link on an SFD'd truck (not mine):