hawairish

I appreciate that, thanks. I don't mind helping with more specific questions, but the post is too broad right now. Since @TowndawgR50 and I still make kits occasionally, there's a conflict of interest to divulge all we know here. Keep in mind nearly all of this is either documented around the forum (loosely or otherwise), and practically none of it is off-the-shelf. I applaud DIY effort, but I think more research is required here before I can help with anything. For sure, spacer dimensions have been posted for years, and I've personally detailed everything about the most expensive part, the steering link, on NPORA previously.

And btw, I'll echo XPLORx4's concerns about whether the mounts can support additional stress. Fitment is one thing, function is another.

Love that green... The bumper spot won't be a good one, unfortunately. There is body metal right behind that spot, and the bumper will block nearly half of the camera view because of the wide-angle lens. Even on my setup, the lens picks up the edge of the rims (which is part of the reason I want to relocate it to the center hub.) The spot above the license plate would be ideal if drilling through, though you'd probably want a style like the Crux CUL-03 instead, where the body of the camera is angled out. The wide angle lens will just pick up everything in view along the horizon, but perhaps not be too practical for reverse use if it's not angled downward a little. You'd just need to check if the image can be rotated 180° to support both vertical and horizontal (under) mounting. Alternatively, Slart's suggestion of using one of the integrated license plate mount cameras would allow you do drill a concealed hole behind the plate...but either way, you'll be drilling a hole. Yet another option is to mount an enclosed camera at the top of the lift gate, perhaps even mounted to the spoiler. There's a significant amount of space to route the wires inside the weather strip without it getting pinched. You could drill two small holes into the spoiler to undermount a CUL-10 style camera with adjustable bracket, or a fixed-mount lip style like the CUL-09 or CUL-06. Double-sided adhesive would also be suitable, though I prefer mechanical fastening personally. Wiring to that point is easy; I run my GMRS antenna wire out of the chassis along the weather strip. @R50JR has his reverse camera mounted up top on his roof basket and it gives a good reverse view.

A flush mount angled camera would be your best bet...single hole, one and done. Drilling into the liftgate (or truck, for that matter) takes a little courage, but mask it off, double check your clearances inside the liftgate (particular for the wiper motor and linkages), and take your time. It is possible to get wiring through the liftage tube/grommet going into the chassis. I've run wiring there previously for some LED lights I installed. Just need a rigid wire to fish/pull wires through, and removal of all the trim liftgate trim and weatherstripping. For the reverse signal, you've some options: Behind the front passenger kick panel, one of the harnesses has a yellow wire that is the reverse signal. The harness will depend on whether it's AT or MT, but they're in the same area. The FSM details it (I can help with more info about your truck). Many cameras will have a power wire "tail" at the RCA side and a positive and negative lead on the camera side. The camera-side wires can be tapped into the reverse signals at the tail light with the pos/neg wires (or just pos from the reverse pos signal and ground the neg wire). You can then connect the tail wire to the reverse signal on the radio, without having to use the reverse signal from the kick panel. (The tail light will power the camera and signal the radio.) If the camera side signal wires aren't long enough to reach the tail light (plausible in your case if installing on the lift gate), but you plan to use the reverse signal at the kick panel, you can cap the pos wire at the camera side and just ground the neg wire. You then need to connect the reverse signal, radio reverse wire, and the camera's tail wire together (this will send the radio the signal and power the camera). If the camera lacks the tail wire, you'll have to use the reverse signal from the kick panel for the radio signal, and also the tail light for the camera's power leads. Note that if your radio supports live camera viewing, you won't be able to utilize this camera for it because the camera will only be powered when in reverse. I recently added a reverse camera to my truck as a Phase 1 project, and while it fits the immediate need, it's not the end product. Because of the tire carrier, I made a bracket and ran the wires externally along the frame: This setup is temporary, and I may even redo the camera mount to center it in the hub. Phase 2 setup will require rewiring this camera completely as part of a quad-view setup using front, rear, and forward- and rear-facing undercarriage cameras for trail use. The live views of those will probably make my wife throw up.

If you've got the older axle perch style, the coilovers will probably fit, at least on the passenger side since the shock angles rearward, and not vertically like the newer post style. The driver's side, however, might interfere with emissions or the panhard tower. If you've got the post style shock mounts, I don't see them clearing the spring and tire under flex. Are the AirLift bags or OME/LR springs an option?

Pretty close! The all-mode switch is in the OE spot. "2WD" controls my tire inflation/deflation setup, "AUTO" charges the system (for locker or quick-connect use), "4H" engages the rear locker, and "4LO" engages both lockers. I just put the full details on my TJM thread to not clutter your thread.

Long overdue update to my locker setup. The locker itself is great...still worth every penny. No problems whatsoever. Having since installed a few other ARB units in a few trucks over the years, I still prefer the TJM. Unfortunately, I have a feeling these won't be available much longer. I've made several changes to the onboard air setup that supports this over the years. I eventually moved the MV50 out from the cubby area because it was too loud. It was reinstalled under the hood: The 1/2 gallon air tank also got removed from the system. It was nice to have some reserve for air locker usage, but wasn't too useful for other functions because it just meant additional compressor run time to pressurize it. I may incorporate it on another project. At that time (I think), I had also wired in a digital pressure gauge in the glovebox plus installed air/Schrader valves at each tire for use with 3' whips for a tire inflation setup. The petcock gave me the ability to also dump air, which is nice to get everything to a consistent PSI. I also re-wired the digital pressure switch to have switches to manually override the power and relays for other functions. Made the whips with clip-ons, hose clamps, and a cut-up Harbor Freight air hose. Then in 2020, the installation of ARBs in Rockit's QX4 prompted the need for an air compressor in his truck, so I pulled my setup out, acquired cruise control parts to match his setup, and made some brackets to shoe horn an ARB into his truck: This took a lot more effort than I had anticipated because of the cruise control pieces. For reference, the space normally looks like this: I made 3 brackets total: one to move the pump closer to the fuse box, another to move the 'bulb' closer to the firewall, and then the compressor bracket that mounted to the strut mount: The original plan was for me to acquire a CMKA12 just for mocking up Rockit's setup, but the distributor for the shop I bought from sent me an open box unit, so I had to deal with some BS there. The shop cut me a discount and I just kept the unit and made myself a bracket for my truck: While at it, I added a small fuse box and some relays for future items. I also needed to rewire the digital pressure gauge a bit to handle another solenoid for deflation air dump, but also rearranged the plumbing to make it a little more compact for storing in the glovebox. Everything is still controlled through the all-mode switch: Didn't mention it earlier, but these panel bezels are interchangeable on the radio bezels. My truck originally had a panel with a pocket and 2 switch blanks, so I bought one for an LE. It just snaps into the bezel. The all-mode switch functions as such: 2WD: Inflation/deflation mode. I attach all the whips to the tires, and can either auto-inflate to my preset PSI on the digital pressure switch, or I can turn off the compressor and open the dump solenoid and/or petcock to deflate. AUTO: Compressor on; charges the system to 100 PSI for locker usage while driving, or for quick-connect usage (rear bumper and under hood) while stationary. 4H: Rear locker engaged. 4LO: Front and rear locker engaged. If I haven't mentioned it here previously, I hate dealing with pneumatics. These projects take so much effort to do. I have a slow leak somewhere and have no interest in finding it, let alone ever touching this system again.

It’ll matter for the R51 though because of the independent rear suspension...but to your point, having it a little higher for off-road use shouldn’t be a long-term problem. He’d still need to maintain a regular ride height like Mr. Reverse suggested, since the change in suspension will affect camber. Though @Moses76 should clarify if he’s seeking to replace the spring with an air spring/bag, or if he’s talking about Airlift bags inside the existing springs. Two different systems, with the latter not really controlling ride height, just load handling. The former is part of a full suspension system, which I believe is what he’s referring to.

Glad you guys found this useful. At some point since my last post, I had finally received a new-old-stock full 3rd LSD member I had ordered earlier in the year...completely unused, never-installed housing, gears, carrier unit, probably sitting on a shelf for the last 25+ years. Took it apart to check the setup, cleaned and lubed the parts, then gave it a test. It peaked at 307 ft-bs (actually, it peaked at 330, but I discarded it from the dataset), averaging around 298 ft-lbs, and with the "optimal" 6:5 setup and the older spring plates (with tabs) and spring discs. (Realizing now I should've taken pics of the spring plates.) I owed a buddy a rebuilt LSD for his 99 Frontier, to replace one I had repacked a few years ago. It was still holding up, but he felt it wasn't grabbing as well as it used to (I think we had it around 180 ft-lbs, but my testing method at the time was far more primitive). Plus, he had recently supercharged his truck, so a little more grip would be nice. Rather than give him the 300 unit with bunch of nice unused pieces, I swapped in some "A" grade used pieces and changed the setup to 7:4 to bring it down to 250 ft-lbs. He hit the trails with it over the weekend and said it made it a big difference. (We also took the truck around the block after getting the LSD in...and man, that supercharger makes a huge difference in that truck!) His old unit was reading about 80 ft-lbs when I tested it his place, but I later took it apart, cleaned it all out, and noticed that the springs were series. Put them back to parallel (he mentioned he may have flipped them at some point) and it retested around 165 ft-lbs. Not sure why there was such a large change from flipping the springs, but may have also been a residual film on the pieces, perhaps from old or dirty oil. The pieces cleaned off well and looked to be in good shape (I used some new pieces originally), so I think freshening up the pieces played a part (I didn't shuffle them around, either). Anyway, I ended up reusing this carrier for my Frontier LSD. After trying a few configurations, I'm going with an 8:3 setup that yields 105 ft-lbs. Since I have so many spare LSD pieces, I put the junkiest of pieces and a few 1.4mm pieces into the setup, too. I'm not sure what's a reasonable setup for a 2wd street truck. To that front, I have also acquired a D21 V6 2WD H233B axle w/ 3.9 gears and WD21 disc brakes to swap into the truck. Figuring to start that project this month.

Four years later... Truck's at 190K now, still on the same brake setup, and still stops well. @TowndawgR50 still hasn't swapped his stuff, but now has a nicely repacked LSD to go with it. He's nearly there. Meanwhile, I'm nearing the start of a similar disc swap on my 98 Frontier 2wd...which includes swapping out the H190 axle (3.7, open) with an H233B (3.9, LSD). Axle housing and gears from a D21 V6 2WD, discs from a WD21, and a moderately-packed 105 ft-lb LSD of my own configuration.

I don't think we've confirmed that all aftermarket axles have lesser operating angles than stock, but yes, some have less. I did a write up on this a few months ago. When you say it sounds like binding when in 4WD, you mean you hear/feel something while driving? Or just a driveway test? Not sure why it'd be more pronounced in 4wd—I'd guess because torque and/or resistance is being applied—but you should confirm if it's binding at all. Pull the tire, put a screwdriver in the rotor, and slowly turn it with minimal, consistent force. Any hesitation you feel is probably from binding (presuming it's not something else, like brakes or bearings). Plan on a full day for SFD install. I don't recall a set of instructions being online, though I started writing some a while ago and never finished. You don't need an engine hoist. I've always supported the engine from underneath, or you can buy an engine support bar to support from above (Harbor Freight sells one that worked well on an install). If you've been on the bubble about installing a Lokka, this would also be a good time to do it since the SFD install requires dropping the diff.

The spindle in question is for 2wd applications only...but mainly because it's just the spindles. I'm sure they'll physically fit 4WD applications (Frontier, Xterra, and Pathfinder), but without all the cradles and brackets to bring the LCAs and differential down, it'll surely be a CV buster. There are several full fits that include all that stuff and probably fit all the same. To match the lift, will need a rear subframe drop and lift springs, among other bits.

Our unibody trucks have all of the following components mounted to a front subframe: suspension (lower control arm + MacPherson strut) steering (rack and pinion) drivetrain (front differential) motor mounts A subframe drop uses a series of spacers to separate the subframe from the chassis and motor. You gain lift without replacing any individual suspension components, just by moving the subframe away from the chassis. Typical SFD sizes are 3" and 4" and do not require other suspension part upgrades, but you can use lift springs in conjunction with it...that's where the 6" total lift comes from (i.e., 4" SFD + 2" lift springs). Our CVs are near their maximum operating angles with only 2" of conventional lift; anything more risks busting CVs. (Note that springs alone can't cause broken CVs.) An SFD is essential/required if you want more than 2" of lift because it assures CVs can be kept within their operating angles. Also, an SFD only addresses the front suspension. For the rear suspension, OME and AC have 2" springs for non-SFD applications. Beyond that, there's an array of LR springs that are good for up to 4", as well as spacers.

Welcome @jessrob. Bearer of bad news here: Max lift the truck can support without an SFD (subframe drop) is 2", accomplished with lift springs (OME, AC) or strut spacers. The use of spacers may lead to busted CVs, depending on your setup. SFD allows for more lift, which allows for up to about 6" total lift, but they are custom parts. There are practically no performance bolt-ons for our truck except a K&N filter. No intakes, no headers, no tuners. Our VQ35DE shares virtually nothing with other VQ35DE-equipped cars. Anything you do here will be custom. The last statement also applies to exhaust. The truck is fairly capable and underrated, but there's no aftermarket for it. That's not to say things can't be upgraded. Lift is the most readily-achievable goal; OME has a great product in both springs and struts/shocks. I'd advise sifting around the forum a bit more to learn about lift options and SFDs.

Been done once that I'm aware of: The guy who did it (@tmorgan4), and the guy who last owned it (@GrandpaX) haven't been on for a while.

You know me, I get carried away.

@TheGhost Since you have the MT, we can clear up the diagram on EL-86 a little, but I also think we're dealing with a couple small discrepancies. Keep in mind a lot of these diagrams also show items you might not see on your truck. Here's the breakdown of EL-86, with the bold harnesses IDs being what you should expect to see on your truck: 1E = Typo #1. It says "M/T Model", but EL-81 says harness 76M is for "VG30E engine A/T model". EL-44 shows 1E as having 6 wires for AT, and you've indicated there's 8 wires. So, this won't be on your truck. See 5E. 2E = "Back-up lamp switch", found on MT-33 as "Reverse lamp switch" on the OD gear case. EL-30 says it has white/black and red/black wires and confirms as using harness 2E, and that harness 5E has 8 wires. The inhibitor switch on an AT provides the reverse signal, which is likely why 1E is 6-wire. 3E = "Neutral position switch", also on MT-33 by the same name, also on the OD gear case. As such, this is the neutral switch for the transmission. More on this later... 4E = "Transfer switch" aka "4wd switch", per EL-44. This should be your rear-most sensor, or "Transfer Switch #2" in your sketch. In the picture you last uploaded, I believe the harness circled in green needs to be connected to the open harness in your hand given the yellow and black wires indicated on EL-44. (The picture's too small for me to assert much, though.) EL-44 also confirms that 4E is for MT, but does not show an expected 6E harness label by the AT switch. 5E = Typo #2; says "4WD A/T Model", but EL-81 says harness 78M for "VG30E engine M/T model". Everything else has so far confirmed this should be an 8-wire harness on MT trucks. 6E = I suspect this is the correct harness for the AT Transfer Switch, but the diagram is wrong in indicating that it's two harnesses. 7E (AT) & 8E (MT) = These Vehicle Speed Sensors won't be mistaken as switches...they'll have a cylindrical body coming off them. Wires will be red and white Given the various EL diagrams, these appear to be the pins for 5E (note that the numbers from the terminal side, so they might be reversed depending on how you're looking at it): 1 - white/black (2E - Back up light switch) 2 - ? (3E - Neutral Position switch?) 3 - yellow (4E - Transfer/4WD Switch) 4 - red (8E - VSS ) 5 - ? (3E - Neutral Position switch?) 6 - red/black (2E - Back up light switch) 7 - black (4E - Transfer/4wd Switch) 8 - white (8E - VSS) Now, about that neutral switch...or "switches", since I suspect (expect?) both AT and MT models to possibly have both. For sure, there's a neutral position switch on the transmission, either a dedicated switch the MT, or part of the inhibitor switch on the AT. TF-9 shows a switch, and in a different position than MT-33, so I presume it to be a separate switch, but I'm just not seeing proof anywhere...I can't find any circuit diagram that includes it. Normally I'd expect these switches to be covered in the EL - Warning Lamps section because they'd be used to warn of an unsafe condition, such as leaving the t-case in neutral while the transmission was in park (AT) or neutral (AT or MT)...the vehicle can roll. This condition triggers the "ATP" lamp, and while I don't see any mention of it, there is one illustration that suggests it's there. To that extent, I can't find much that covers the MT transmission's NPS circuit, except in the SMJ/"foldout" diagram, though I at least expected to see it as a trigger for deactivating the cruise control, but nothing there. Anywho....more pictures would help, though since 75% of the 5E can be identified, hopefully that's some process of elimination.

@TheGhost See my reply here.

The 95 FSM shows only one transfer switch...but two switch "designs" existed. See EL-44. The diagram there indicates that for VG30E models that MT trucks had two single-wire connections using yellow and black wires, and AT trucks had a single dual-wire harness with yellow and yellow/black wires. I'm not sure what transmission you have, but I'd be willing to the switches really only differ by their harness. The location, per TF-9, shows it to be on the passenger side of the rear case of the transfer case. An actual picture of that 2nd switch, with relative position on the t-case or transmission, from your sketch would help. Otherwise, if you have the MT, the other switch might be the Transfer/Neutral Position Switch (doesn't exist on AT). Your picture in post #7 is of a switch where the terminal cap/boot has broken off (i.e., the wires aren't supposed to be exposed or disconnected there), so I presume that to be both the switch you're looking for, and the source of the problem. I imagine that could be fixed pretty easily with some solder and some sealant. Otherwise, it appears to be a $28 part from Nissan, if even available. MT switch: AT switch: But depending on how far you want to go down the rabbit hole... The screenshot above, from NissanPartsDeal (.com) shows the applications, part numbers, and part number succession. Both NPD and Nissan (parts.nissanusa.com) also show 32005-ZD30A (MT) replaced 32005-SSG13, and 32005-33G1B (AT) replaced 32005-SSG14, both of which were for 1st Gen Frontiers and Xterras. The MT 32005-SSG13 switch has a direct replacement on RockAuto from Standard Motor Parts NS268 ($29), listed as 4WD Switch. The AT 32005-SSG14 switch has a direct replacement on RockAuto from Standard Motor Products LS287 ($17), but appears as a Back Up (Reverse) Lamp Switch on various Nissan MT trucks and cars, such as 94-95 Hardbody and 95-98 200SX (among others) Since AT switch seems to fit other models, it stands to reason parts in the same category should also fit, such as the Beck/Arnley 2011791 ($8) switch for a 200SX; notably, many of those similar parts only seem to differ by wire length. That all said, I'd be willing to bet you can grab just about any of those switches and they'd work fine, if not direct fits despite some possibility that some wires may be too short. Not that you couldn't splice things if needed. If the factory switch still works (you just need to do a simple continuity check when 4wd engaged and disengaged), then it seems like you could repair the switch, potentially without even removing it from the case.

That retainer damage doesn't come from high mileage...someone's had fun with that truck. Can't say I've seen a set as bad as those. Replacement pieces aren't available from Nissan unfortunately. Nothing stops their reuse, but with all the parts all hammered like that, it's probably just a matter of time before something chips off and causes more damage. I need to rebuild some LSD units soon (possibly this weekend), so I might be able to free up a replacement set. Remind me...did you end up putting an open 4.363 diff in the truck temporarily? Or is your truck down right now with this diff out?

The bracket we did for R50JR’s truck won’t work in yours because of all the cruise control stuff. As he mentioned, I built two additional brackets to relocate the cruise control pump closer to the fuse block and also move then vacuum bulb closer to the firewall in order to get the compressor in at an angle. But, I think of modified version of his bracket plus the additional relocation brackets might turn out better that the previous effort.

But doesn't seem too far off, either, though. Although I've not gotten to the point of stuttering, but my fill-ups from the E line are normally in the 16-16.5gal range. I don't think I've ever exceeded 17gal, even when trying to push below the E. I don't have much faith that there's any useful reserve there.

Yep, he's got a 2nd set of links to make for you.

XPLORx4's original instructions are the easiest and quickest solution, and this is correctable in a few minutes. Follow his instructions above, except please also disconnect the battery since you're potentially dealing with the airbag due to the clock spring. You are looking for this steering linkage: Loosen the bolt in green and completely remove the lower bolt as shown. Then you can collapse the link to disconnect it from steering rack (if you need the link to collapse more, remove the bolt in green). Go back inside the truck, gently rotate the steering wheel back into the correct position, and wrap the seatbelt through it to keep it from spinning. Back under the truck, avoid rotating the link any more than necessary (the seatbelt will allow some movement), align the lower part of the link and extend it back onto the steering spline. Reinstall and tighten the bolts. Hopefully the direction you correct the steering wheel is in the correct damage as to not damage the clock spring, as mentioned previously. Rotate it slowly and gently. Stop at any hesitation.

Looks like 0.25" spacing to me. Middle piece has 2.5" written on it and covers 10 units.