hawairish

https://www.remcodsc.com/coupling/ I'd never heard of such a thing, and now seeing it, I'm completely intrigued. A very neat concept...but something about trying to attach a contraption to the snout of an H233B just doesn't sit well with me...it's such an irregular shape, but I see how notching some of the ribs would help. I think I'd just be content reaching under and flipping the collar by hand, but I'd really love to see something like that in person. That'd surely simplify towing, although it looks like a pretty expensive option between the kit and driveshaft modification. Since it uses Dana 1310-series u-joints, just need to find an outside-clip flange yoke for the H233B. I think all the R50s used some non-standard inside-clip u-joint, but there's a 1310 OE unit; just used one the other week for my H190A-->H233B swap. I wrote down the Spicer p/n for it somewhere, and I think it's still available new.

Crawling around to disconnect and reconnect the driveshaft would suck, even on dry surface. You'd also need to make sure no one, including yourself, decides to start the truck and put it in gear when it's disconnected. That'll make for a bad day. Doing some additional light reading into the topic, though, I'm going to have to retract my prior opinion. The locked vs. unlocked steering got me thinking...it seems doable, but potentially unsafe. Compelling arguments read about included: Locked wheels being a slight angle, causing the vehicle to be towed crooked. The steering wheel lock being damaged. Unlocked wheels being able to turn left or right, causing fishtailing. Steering and suspension components being designed primarily for forward motion, not reverse. U-Haul having specific warnings to never to a car backwards on a dollly: https://www.uhaul.com/Articles/Tips/120/Tow-Dolly-User-Instructions/ So, given that, while it seems mechanically possible to do what's proposed, I'd say it's advised not to...which leaves disconnecting the driveshaft as the winning option. Carry a blanket to throw on the ground, and some big warning flag to throw on the steering wheel to prevent starting (perhaps in addition to disconnecting the battery once it's on the dolly).

And even if you pull the driveshaft, you’d still need a splined yoke to keep the fluid from draining out the rear output. Towing backwards on a dolly with manual hubs...I don’t see a problem with that. Should work out pretty well, actually.

I'd love to see the new Jimny's over here. Agreed on Nissan not taking some bolder steps in vehicles, outside the GTR. The Z Proto doesn't do enough for me, either. I really wish the IDx concept would come to fruition with a proper engine and RWD configuration. But, they just seem exceptionally weak in the truck and SUV market. The pickups have always been a staple, though I'm not sure if the Titan has made significant gains in popularity over the last 15+ years.

I don't like it. Congratulations, Nissan, for making another lackluster car...or another Honda Pilot. I've grown so tired of Nissan engineers talking about WD21 inspiration and then they still produce some homage crapmobile. There's no lineage here whatsoever (and arguably, any lineage may have only ever existed in the Xterra). A second generation in a row they couldn't even get the rear door handles correct. Personally, I like the new Navara front end over the Frontier. I was hopeful that the new Frontier would have the body lines of the more recent Navara, but both were a departure. I keep hoping that Nissan will produce another matching-body truck/SUV combo like the Hardbody/Pathfinder and 1st and 2nd gen Frontiers/Xterras (and even 3rd gen Pathfinder). In this case, I was hoping for a Frontier/Terra joint release. Disappointed yet again. I'll add that the Pathfinders (R50 and R51) and Xterras (WD22 and N40) should never have coexisted (and the R50 wasn't a good successor to the WD21)...which gets me to the new Pathfinder: With the Xterra having been out of the picture for a several years, Nissan should have done a chassis-share between the Frontier and Pathfinder. And bring the diesels over! (There are a single- and twin-turbo diesels overseas!) Nissan just continues to create bland vehicles here. I can't tell the difference between a Versa, Sentra, Altima, or Maxima any more. It's probably just a matter of time before the Frontier and Titan are FWD, too.

I had a similar issue on my 04...not that these systems share anything, though. But same symptoms: just steady throttle and then a random occasional throttle surge/hesitation. Would also happen when using cruise control, and was enough to cancel cruise. Mine did throw some "A-B" throttle position codes sometimes, but not always. "P2135" seems to ring a bell. The blips would occur regardless of code thrown (I don't recall checking if codes were pending). In the end, I pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it thoroughly. I went a few extra steps of drilling out the rivets on the cover and cleaning all electrical contacts inside. I probably wouldn't recommend going that far, but basic cleaning might not hurt.

Finished the parking brakes on the Frontier today! I'm very pleased with how it turned out, far better than what I did on the Pathfinder. The other night I determined that the 300ZX brake kit wasn't going to work. The return springs were too short, as were the anti-rattle pins. Figuring that if the Passport parts worked, maybe a kit for the Passport would work, too. The kit arrived today and worked out perfectly...so perfectly that I'd say 100% of the kit pieces are compatible with the WD21 brakes. The parts on the left are from Carlson 17396 for the Passport (and several other Honda, Isuzu, and Acura vehicles 1994-2015), and the parts on the right are from Carlson 17418 for the 300ZX (and Q45, both 1990-96). The kits differ by the return springs at the top, and the anti-rattle pieces in the middle (pins, round springs, and retainers). The blue springs, red/orange springs, and adjusters are identical. Everything from the kit got used (well, except the c-clip and spring washer...didn't bother, wasn't needed). The return spring design is a little different from OE, but worked just fine. The proof: I'm stoked to have all that sorted finally. If you're ever missing parking brake parts for your disc brake-equipped WD21, find a Passport or Rodeo (or others). And now... Parking Brakes, Redux I mentioned in my post the other day that I was going to try a totally different approach by splicing the WD21 and D22 cables together. The results came out great. I've not explored if the exact same approach can be taken on the R50, but should be the same fundamentally. Since I did this on the D22, I'll try to explain it in R50 terms as best as possible. The pics, of course, will be of the D22 because I'm not even going to redo the R50 (I think I tossed those lines anyway). Specialty tools wise, I used: a hydraulic crimper like the one used in the original project — for crimping the wire stops and butt splice connectors lineman's pliers, or something suitable for cutting 1/8" steel wire rope (small bolt cutters would work, too) a knock-off Dremel with a flexible shaft and metal cut-off discs — for cutting off crimp rings and cutting the parking cable outer sleeve and pinch clamp (Oetiker) pliers — for tightening pinch clamps on the rubber boots and hoses used to protect the parking brakes (optional?) Hardware: 2x 1/8" ID wire stops (I was going to use aluminum ones, but ended up using copper ones instead) 2x 1/0 (or "0") AWG butt splice connectors (I bought some from a local True Value that still carries hardware assortments, but they're available on eBay) 4x-8x single pinch hose clamps (18.2mm to 21mm; McMaster 5435K31) (...also optional) 5/8" ID thin-wall rubber hose (to cover the connector and protect the line; the stuff I grabbed at the hardware store was a thinner wall for plumbing use and was sold by the foot) The parking brake cable is two main parts: an inner cable, and an outer sleeve. For this approach, we're only splicing together the outer sleeves. The inner cable remains fully intact, minus cutting the ends and crimping new wire stops on. Before cutting the outer sleeve, make 100% sure the inner cable is pulled out of the way (cutting the inner cable in the wrong place is definitely not a good thing). The rest of the cable is just rubber boots, tubes, and brackets used for protecting and attaching the cables to the truck. Nissan uses compression rings to secure the rubber on the cable. The outer sleeve is made up of a metal "tube" and a plastic/vinyl jacket. The tube is actually a thick spring, which is why it's both rigid and flexible. I recommend a Dremel and small metal cut-off wheel over other means. An angle grinder with a cut-off wheel should work fine, but might be a little overkill. Just be sure to not distort the core, since it is just a spring. If needed, use a reamer, or jeweler's file, or other deburring tool to clean the opening, since the inner cable will need to pass back through without snagging. The end should also be flattened (the piece in the pic was scrapped, so it wasn't cleaned up). The cable has a 10mm outer diameter. I initially tried a 2/0 AWG connector, but it was too loose. The 1/0 connecter was a perfect slip fit, not loose, and not tight. The parking brake cable is mounted to the backing plate by a metal "foot" that is crimped to the outer sleeve. We're leaving that crimped part intact and cutting several inches away from it. I did 10" for this application, but something a little shorter (6"?) would be better. Not too short, but not too long. This will make it easier to sheath the cable with another rubber hose. (Remember, it's far easier to shorten something than it is to lengthen it...so be sure to cut enough material to work it.) The process starts by breaking down the WD21 cables to get the foot. Technically, you could just caveman cut right through the entire cable without doing any prep-work here. All that needs to be done here is to salvage the "foot" off the cable with enough of the outer sleeve still attached, and to keep the spring. Everything else won't be needed (you can try reusing the hose, but I preferred buying new stuff). My approach was to: Cut the exposed inner cable at the very end of the cable, farthest away from the foot. Remove the inner cable from the outer cable. Keep the spring. Use the Dremel to cut all the compression rings (I made two cuts on opposites sides of the ring...made it easier to remove the ring halves than make one cut and fight to pry it open). On the end farthest from the foot, I slid the boot down and cut the outer sleeve. Remove all the hoses on the line, leaving about 3' of outer sleeve with the foot at the end. Maybe keep the boots if they're not trashed. Now, the process repeats on the truck's cables. Start by cutting off the wire stop at the very end of the inner cable (cut right up against the stop), the pull the spring off (doesn't get re-used). Now, this is where things get tricky. On the D22, there's a short (18") tube that protects the line and is in between the foot boot and another up the line. On the R50, I think the tube is a little longer and is held in place by the brackets. Obviously, this tube obstructs where you'll be cutting. If you want to salvage the tube, you'll need to loosen up enough things (such as the brackets) in order to slide the tube up, exposing the area of the outer sleeve to be cut. If you don't care about the tube, you can just cut through it, but you'll still need to cut back enough to expose the outer sleeve (you can always put a larger ID tube over it after it's spliced). From here out, take your time with measurements and cuts. Definitely measure thrice, cut once. If you cut even a little too short, it's hard to find any slack to make up for it. Take your time. Start by mounting the WD21 cable to the backing plate. Make sure as much of the R50 cable is routed and attached in its normal position along the trailing arms (in my case on the D22, attached to the frame and routed over the leaf spring). Bend the WD21 cable to contour the original path of the R50 cable, then mark a suitable position on the R50 cable to cut (wrapping tape around it helps). This should probably be about 6" from the R50 foot. Make sure you also leave enough space to slide any protective hoses up the cable so they can be slid down after crimping. BEFORE YOU CUT ANYTHING: Follow the cable to the middle of the truck, where they connect to the parking brake lever and tensioning mechanism. You must pull the inner cable out enough so that it won't be cut! You may have to pop a dust boot off of a mount to do so. Cut the R50 outer sleeve only. You may need to detach the cable from the trailing arms so that you have room to work in. Once cut, reattach the cable to the trailing arm, again routing it in its normal position. Bend the WD21 cable again to contour to the desired path, aligning it to the cut end of the R50 cable. Check and double-check the cut position on the WD21 so that it'll meet up tightly with the R50 end, then mark the WD21 cable. Detach the WD21 foot from the backing plate, then cut the sleeve. It may be wise to leave a little extra on the cut, since the cable can flex if it's a little too long. If it's a little too short, it could be a problem. Once both cables are cut, you can confirm the lengths by slipping the butt splice connector on them. Do not crimp it at this time; it's just a test fitment. It should end up like this (well, similar...this is the D22 of course): You can see in this pic the connector is not crimped and that I have already mocked up the boot at the end. At this point, there's a bit of an order-of-operations. You must have everything in place on the line before anything is crimped. That means any boots, pinch clamps, the butt connector, protective hoses...everything must be in place first. Once the butt connecter is crimped, nothing else can be added or removed to the line. In my case, I left (or created) enough slack to slide a longer piece of tube that will get slid down. Reattach everything to the truck. Bolt the WD21 foot on the backing plate, and R50 cables on the trailing arm again. Everything should be snugged up a little, too. The reason is that the cable must be in its normal resting state with it's all crimped together, otherwise you'll hate yourself later. You can also push the inner cable back through the sleeve from the middle of the truck now. If it jams where the cables meet, you can move the cables around to guide it through. Once everything is attached correctly and pieces are on the cable, you can crimp the butt connecter. The hydraulic kit has a "50" and "75" die for 1/0 and 2/0. respectively, but a "60" would have been better here. The 75 is too big, and the 50 too small, but the 50 needs to be used here. Don't max out the 50 crimp! Instead, feel for a stopping point on the hydraulic crimper before the dies meet—this is the point where the crimper is starting to apply excess pressure to the spring core. I imagine the crimper could surely collapse the core, which would be a very bad thing. So, crimp firmly, but carefully. It should end up like this: Keep pressure on the outer sleeve while crimping to ensure it stays fully engaged in the connector and doesn't create a gap. At this point, you can slide down any protective hose over the connector, or crimp the pinch clamps on the boots or elsewhere. Here's how mine turned out: This is the RH side, but the LH side turned out almost the same. Also, don't rely on any numerical measurements here when you change sides. Just because you cut 6" on the RH side, doesn't mean 6" will work on the LH side. Despite all the warnings above, the only thing I forgot to do was put a pinch clamp on the outer protective hose. Now...I put earlier notes that the pinch clamps were optional. It seems like Nissan used the compression rings on the rubber parts mainly to keep moisture and debris out. I'd say you could use hose clamps instead (I did on the LH when I forgot), but the pinch clamps were a nice substitute to keep an OE look. I wanted the protective hoses clamped specifically to keep water out of the line and eventually working its way into the butt splice connector. The ones I got from McMaster were perfect. I imagine you could also use CV boot band clamps, but these pinch clamps were far easier. As far as the rest of the setup goes, just take your time. Other key points and suggestions: Slack all the inner cable lines as much as possible before cutting the wire or crimping anything on. This includes loosening the parking brake cable adjuster from inside the truck. This way, you can tension everything up later (it'll surely need to be tensioned regardless, so leave room to tension it). After everything has been slacked, start with one side. The parking brake system is designed to equalize pressure to both sides, even when one side engages first. You need to determine which side might have less cable exposed to work with at the adjustment point I think the R50 is fairly equal. But on my D22, my RH cable was only shortened 1/2" (where the OE wire stop was cut off), while I needed to cut 2" off the LH cable, because of the way it's connected. Do one side first. Pull the inner cable enough so that it is taut. Use the parking brake shoe with the lever to confirm a suitable crimp spot for the wire stop. Cut the wire behind it (i.e., leave space for the wire stop), cut 1/2" of insulation off the cable end, then crimp the wire stop on (the wire stop must be on the steel portion of the cable, not the insulation). Fully assemble the parking brakes (shoes, springs, rotor, etc.) on this side. This is so you can confirm sufficient slack was taken up at the lever point. Now, do the other side. Be sure to pull the cable taut, then repeat the wire stop installation and parking brake assembly, including rotor. Adjust the tension on the parking brake lever according to spec (see FSM). Again, I'm super pleased with the results, but there was a LOT of "think" time to check and double-check (and even then, I still forgot that clamp). Definitely pay attention to the order of operations when cutting or crimping anything; it seems very easy to make a little mistake that will render a component completely useless and require a complete replacement, if not a bit more corrective work.

That's why you're the man!

Correct. Also, both are 2-pinion open diffs. The H190 is a spare I picked up a few years ago to replace some busted side gears in the truck, and the H233 probably came from the D21 axle donor.

Yep, Honda and Isuzu had partnerships for a long while. Passport and Rodeo, Trooper and SLX (Acura). But yeah, dumb luck finding a part from those that would work. I only gave it a thought because I’ve seen the brake parts used on other Nissan conversions. I had exhausted my research skills trying to find similar Nissan vehicles, cars included, that might be similar. Despite the 300ZX having some cross refs, the other brake parts are vastly different.

Axle swap/conversion is nearly complete. Fresh "orange sticker", too. In case anyone is curious, here's the size difference between an H190 and an H233:

Started my D22 project a few weeks ago. The fuel pump failed a few months prior, so I pulled the bed, replaced the pump, and got to work. I pulled everything off the frame except the tank, all of which got disassembled (even the leaf springs), cleaned up with a wire cup, painted, and reassembled. The rear axle conversion is nearly complete at this point. At this point, the main stuff that's left to do is finish up the parking brakes, shorten the driveshaft, and install the catback exhaust. As far as the disc brake swap goes, this time around the dust shields on the backing plates were in a good-enough condition to keep. The calipers needed a lot of work...the pistons were toasted by the previous owner (one of them had become molten at one point), so everything got rebuilt. I ran into a snag a few weeks ago when I realized I nearly all the parking brake hardware was missing. For reference, this is a complete assembly. The good news is that a 300ZX disc brake hardware kit (Carlson 17418) is nearly identical, and included almost everything. RockAuto didn't show any kits for a WD21, and this kit doesn't crossref either, but after a few OE part number lookups, I was able to confirm all the main parts (in particular the spreaders) and a few springs were the same or similar enough to chance. Left missing was the bigger metal piece near the top that separates the shoes (called a "strut") for both RH and LH sides, and one of those triangular-ish washers. The washer was also used on 300ZX, but dealers want $55(!) for it, and the struts are NLA...and were only used on WD21s. I was able to find a parts broker who can get 2 of the washers for $1/ea and a RH strut for a few bucks, but not the LH. Better that nothing, but there'd still be a problem if I couldn't find another. Of course, I could just use the truck without a parking brake (which is, unfortunately, typical of many homebrew swaps I've seen...no thanks.) Yesterday I went to a several JYs hoping to find another WD21, but no luck. At my last yard, I came across a 94 Honda Passport with disc brakes and figured that since it was another Japanese 6x5.5-bolt 100mm-bore setup from around the same time, maybe it'd be similar. The rotor's drum shape/size looked questionable, but I pulled it anyway. The internals looked very similar, but I couldn't confirm any dimensions at the yard, so I pulled the washers and struts and took a chance. Sure enough, they were practically identical...in fact, the washers were identical. The struts weren't an exact fit, but they were super close. The length was nearly spot on, maybe 1-2mm shorter between the throats than the OE piece (not entirely sure because I didn't pull apart my truck to find out), but the only fitment issue was that the throat on the lever side was just a little too narrow. A few seconds with a flat file, and they fit perfectly now. So anyway, if you're missing hardware, a hardware kit for a 300ZX, and bits from a Honda Passport/Isuzu Rodeo (and several other related applications) will do. It may also be the case that a similar parking brake hardware kit for those trucks works, too...looks very similar. (On a related note, parts from the vehicles have been used on D21/D22 2WD disc brake swaps for a few years.) With all that sorted out, I'm stoked I can move forward with the parking brakes. I'm taking a different approach to the cables than I did on the R50, and I think it'll turn out a lot better. The general idea is to splice the mounting foot from the WD21 cable onto the D22 cable. I've cut up a WD21 cable enough to get all the insulating boots/shields off it, leaving the foot that's crimped to the cable jacket. I'll cut the jacket a few inches down from the crimp, and then do a similar cut on the D22 cable (the cable needs to be extended a little during this process anyway). They'll be crimped back together with a 2/0 compression butt splice connector, then resheathed. Should look pretty stock when it's done. More to follow...

If you have the inside snap rings on the u-joints, you gotta stick with inners. The outer joints are a different size anyway, and the yokes lack the ring-lands for outers. $400 for that work sounds like a very good deal.

Having the t-case down is the perfect time to put some crawler gears in. Absolutely, yes. The engine+transmission+t-case assembly relies on 3 mounts total; 2 motor, 1 trans, so the one in question is right before the t-case. Is the t-case leaking or is this just maintenance? If you're having a shop do it, I imagine any additional work (pulling the transmission) is going to quickly inflate labor costs unfortunately. However, I hear it's easier to pull the transmission and t-case down together if you're to do any work. @TowndawgR50 or @02_Pathy can confirm or deny that since they've done the work. Not sure if the VG33 has a rear crossover coolant pipe or thermostat, but if it does, that's surely a while-you're-at-it gasket job. Unfortunately, having the transmission down won't improve any access to the motor mounts. The diff bump just blocks too much of the driver's side mount. The passenger side is slightly improved, but still...it's a tight space to work in, even when the diff is down. I can't help much with the leak, though. I'm in a similar situation with some little trickle leak there.

Done it, didn't enjoy it. I destroyed them out with a combination of drill bits through the rubber to get the metal bushing out, then a sawzall to surgically cut the outer shell just enough to punch/chisel the shell out. It's a lot of work, and I only did it for poly bushing. Using a floor press isn't an option unless you've got some pretty specific tools/holders because the flange of the bushing obstructs the tube, and the shape causes other problems; you can't press out from the backside either because the rest of the arm obstructs the press ram. If you're just planning to put rubber bushings in, definitely just buy the complete arm. If you want poly, prepare to work for it.

@AR97Pathfinder Yep, 2923 are the MD fronts (2928 are HD), with 2922 MD rears. If the KYBs are new and otherwise doing fine, I'd probably stick with them.

I'll second the OME MD springs. Great ride quality, and good for a small lift amount, too. Good time to look into shock and strut replacement, too.

What R50JR said. At 25% the costs and installation effort of air lockers, it's a great option. They're still streetable, even in inclement weather, but just require a less-aggressive driving style. That's a reasonable trade-off in my opinion.

It's doable at home. At minimum you'll need a good floor jack, 4 jackstands, and a typical set of metric sockets, wrenches, and extensions. You'll also need a separate means to support the engine, such as an engine support bar, a transmission jack (works fine under the oil pan or transmission), another jackstand supporting the back end of block (use caution), or even a pile of 2x4s (Google "wheel cribs"). It's nice to have another set of hands/eyes, but I've done this sort of work several times by myself to install SFDs, install lockers, etc. It's tedious job because there's a lot of stuff to disconnect (skids, CVs from axle flanges, front driveshaft, axle from hangers, air box stuff, etc.) and because you have to go pretty slowly checking that things are supported/balanced and that you've slacked things (like the power steering lines). Plus, limited space next to the motor. Not a fun job, but doable. You'll use two jackstands to support the front chassis (use the lift pads under the front of the driver's door). The other two can be used to assist lowering the front axle...I put the jack under the differential area, a jackstand at the end of the passenger side axle tube, and another jackstand under the pinion flange (to keep the diff from rotating, because it's not balanced at all). Lower the jack a little, then lower one jackstand a notch, then lower the other jackstand a notch; repeat until it's as low as you can get it, then drag it out with the jack. When lowering the subframe, it helps to keep the rear-most rear subframe bolt threaded just enough to act as a guide pin for the subframe as you lower it, plus allows the subframe to pivots on the bolt heads so that the front of the subframe can go lower. The jackstands can then be used to support the subframe when it's lowered enough. Since you live in a rust area, you'll need to see if it's even safe to remove the subframe nuts and hardware, which has probably never been removed before. If it doesn't look safe, you'll need another approach. You'll still need to drop the front axle to access the motor mount nuts, and then use an engine hoist or transmission jack to lift the engine enough to clear the mounts from the subframe. This is tougher because you'll need at least 2" to clear things, which means you'll need to check hoses and wires all over the engine bay, as well as the fan inside the shroud, and tension on the transmission mount (which could stretch the rubber there, too). To that extent, I'd check the transmission mount too, while you're at it.

TowndawgR50 showed me this last night. I'm curious to know what it really means, since I also saw the other Nissan vehicle applications. I'm going to remain skeptical, but optimistic, that it comes around. Just seems way too late though, but I'd say if any company is positioned to manufacture and sell them, it'll be them. Lokka's reputation has seemed to deteriorate over the years, though. My last order, when I was researching the 31-spline swap, went poorly...they never shipped after a month despite being in stock, and it still took several weeks to get a refund. At the time, they had all sorts of bullshart excuses for me, including that one of their warehouses burned down. Their FB page, completely outdated, is still loaded with customer complaints about orders. I'd just be cautious about the company they've seemingly become, which is surprising because of how well my first order with them a few years prior went. If it does come out, hopefully it'll also actually be for the 33-spline diffs, unlike the others with incorrect application listings.

It's been a few years since I changed one. It was when I was installing an SFD on a buddy's truck. IIRC, his driver's side was split because of the engine rotation; stretches the mount on the driver's side, compresses on the passenger side. Installing the SFD is what revealed/confirmed the issue, but we knew going into the install that he was experiencing the same subtle clunk/bump when shifting that you described. It varied by acceleration but was most prominent when the transmission shifted in either direction. Sometimes it was a bump, sometimes it was a clunk, depends on how forceful the acceleration/deceleration was. The mount came out in two pieces...supposed to be one, of course. It's changed in similar fashion to installing a SFD...requires supporting the engine, dropping the front differential, and lowering the subframe a little, just enough to clear the two studs at the bottom of the motor mount. The diff gets dropped because the snout blocks the motor mount nuts...not much room to work with. A single nut holds the mount up top, and it can be a pain to reach and requires the airbox and intake plumbing to be removed; a bit tougher on the passenger side, but in all likelihood the mount should be okay. All things considered, changing one or both is a day's job...kind of one of those things where you change both while you're in there.

My money's on a busted motor mount, driver's side I think. Put a floor jack under the oil pan (block of wood between) and lift it up a small amount, maybe 1/2" or so. Check for separation of the rubber from underneath the truck.

Nice! Looks to be a perfect spot.

Well...there's how it was done vs. how I'd do it. The guy who did my powder coating took it upon himself to destroy them out without telling me. I presume his tools included an angle grinder, sledge hammer, and a gorilla on 'roids. If I were to have done it, I would've probably ground down the button head of the pin and tried to punch it through without bending the @!*% out of my brackets like he did. I don't recall the pins being serviceable, but I can't remember. The busted bushings fragments I got back looked to be a pot metal that probably would've withstood the curing heat cycle, but I dunno. I prefer step bits, and usually for metals, you should always start with small holes and enlarge them, whether it be with a step bit or multiple drill bits. If you go at a hole with too big of a bit, you'll shred the body metal easily. HSS and titanium coated HSS bits will work fine, unless you want to spring for cobalt stuff. A little lubrication helps, too. Also, it's not clear if you plan to use rivnuts or nut. The step bits I used from Harbor Freight happened to have the odds sizes that worked best with the rivnuts I used.

Yeah, as R50JR knows, I struggled to find what I needed, or what was even practical, reasonably priced, and without a totally ambiguous product description. And even then, I'm not super impressed with the stuff I ended up with, but it will do (most) of what I want it to and it was relatively inexpensive. The center of it will be a Crimestopper VSMC-4000 4-camera quad-view switcher. It can display several arrangements of 1 to 4 camera views simultaneously, supports input triggers, provides camera power signals, dual video output, IR remote and push-button selector. Most units only had some of those features. Information about it is so non-existent, that I couldn't even get Crimestopper to respond with information, and I just requested the instructions. The instructions suck; none of the diagrams, ports, or wiring colors seem consistent. The only way I know it'll work for me is because I wired nearly everything up on the bench, tested it, and took notes. This is why I need to rewire my reverse light so that the VSMC-4000 powers it instead so that my radio can use it for reverse, and then use all the other cameras for live view. For the undercarriage cameras, I plan to make some sort of mount/cradle that holds and protects both cameras. I can't get the view I want unless the cameras are below the transmission crossmember, which makes them susceptible to damage because they'll be exposed. So, the cradle will be designed to have some sort of spring load to it so that it can tuck upward if I drag it across rock or dirt. I'd like to incorporate it into a transmission skid plate. All this has yet to be designed. Nice. Yeah, fishing the wire was a bit of pain for me too, but I liked the results. Looking forward (backwards?) to see the results.