SpecialWarr

The best fix is to run new speaker wires from the new head unit, bypass the rear factory amp and go straight to the speakers. Boom! 4 ( or more speakers) good to go!

That's the intake boot, it's black rubber and held on with 2 big steel hose clamps. The IACV and air regulator are to the top of the photo, to the left of where "E.G.R control valve" is written They are bolted together: Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

I would go with epoxy since we use it often here in the shop but I have a welder and it's the only thing that will work around here at these temperatures. Besides we are coming up to the holiday season and I hope to be able to get some time to getter done! Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Yeaaa ... there is some welding to be done for sure. I really need to commit 4 days to clean, prep, cut, fit and weld that back end and rockers... I just can't seem to find the 4 consecutive days. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Maybe mine just looks enough like crap ( what with the tools and wiring diagrams floating throughout the truck ) that no one wants to take it... even unlocked!

My thoughts are turning to a dirty air intake, dirty Idle Air Control Valve and a leaking intake boot ( caused by a tear in the bottom of the boot most likely) all kinda messy jobs to do but none that require anything other than hand tools, some time to do a good job, 1 new intake boot and 2 big cans of intake cleaner. When mine was doing this I had a warm weekend to do all of the above and the truck now purrs like a kitten in a good mood.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38158-help-1994-pathfinder-stalling-issue/ is a good place to start reading, but it's going to take some time going through the engine bay with some tools to know for sure. The best thing to do is to start with the easy stuff and work your way through to the harder stuff. You should download one of these: http://diyservicemanuals.com/nissan-pathfinder-service-repair-manuals/ and read through it thoroughly I did!

Yes I do... sorry about that!

Yeeea... not much chance of that around here.... I accidentally left the truck unlocked (!!!) overnight ( oyy!!) with my tools in it in plain sight. Not a single piece of paper moved. I suspect there is no money is stealing a 25 year old truck for parts that no one needs.... my wager is on the dude with the Honda, Toyota and Mazda getting theirs ripped off long before mine does. Not that I don't lock my truck.

But you have running lights? No running lights would be a larger problem I think. I know there is a switch under the brake pedal but I thought its "fail mode" was to light up the brake lights. Maybe you want to check that the switch has all of its wires attached? I don't know what to suggest after that though.

There are a few good jacking points but I assume that you are thinking about the front, yes? The crossmember behind the motor's oil pan is a good spot if you have a lever on the jack that can reach that far. Mine hits the bumper so I just turn the handle over and whack my knuckles on the ground until the beast is in the air enough to flip the handle to its normal position. I noticed that the back is a bit more challenging. I have bash plate covering the fuel tank so I used the flatest part of the plate (towards the front of the truck) and a piece of 200x200mm wood to get it into the air. I also noticed that I needed some thick wood under the jackstands since they ran out of travel. For the water: If you have a sunroof / moonroof / hole in the ceiling of the truck with a pane of glass it may be the culprit. One of the other possibilities is that the frame around the windshield is rusted and allowing water in behind it. The windshield is an easy check: remove the trim strip with a medium "+" screwdriver and start poking around with a small nail drift or something like that. If its rusty you'll probably see it though. That's all I can help you with, maybe some other members have other ideas?

Under which driving conditions do they happen most often? Light throttle? Heavy acceleration? At idle after getting off of the highway? When the car is cold?

Fleurys spring lift installed!!! 2" in the back ( back only at this point, front is going to be later ).... My marvelous assistant Joey was a godsend today, I think I would have given up after the first one was done. 2hr wrestling match with the passenger side due to errant spring compressors sliding around. The drivers' side was over and done with in 25 minutes. Before shots look like a regular stock Pathfinder. The NEW look:

Socks have no effect on ride height. They are sealed containers of oil that control the movement of the vehicle through passing their oil through piston and shims. The ride height is set and determined by the tension rod setting in the front and the spring length in the rear. Changing either of those WILL change the ride height, like adding weight in the back!

I don't think I would go so far as to write off the rad until I knew where exactly the leak is from. I found that the previous owner simply replaced the lines with those for a fuel line (bad bad BAD decision) that were oversize ( SERIOUSLY....dude!) And I spent two days screwing around with hoses, fittings clamps and laying in the street and a parking lot fixing it but the rad itself is still tight like a tiger. So I cut around the trans cooler in the rad, clamped up new transmission hoses with new clamps and no transmission leaks..... I still have the engines' rear main seal to replace though.

Haha! I have my spring compressors at hand and I am waiting for a moment for the weather to clear to install a 2" Fleurys lift in the back!

There is a single bolt that holds the tensioner arm taught and a perpendicular bolt (the same size) that locks the adjuster block into place. I believe that all 4 of them are 10mm bolts. Loosen the locking bolt and spray the adjuster bolt with lubricant then unscrew it until the belt is loose enough to pull off..... same deal for the power steering belt on the other side of the motor. Although I did both from underneath I understand that it's possible to do the power steering from above as well. You may want to check the length of belt you get from the store against the one that is on there right now since mine was an inch too short and the store was closed for the weekend by the time I got to throwing it on. At that point I was just pissed so I took my brand new Maxima alternator and ground the case down on the concrete curb by hand until I could get the belt over it. It wasn't pretty.... it was very ghetto.

Oh the headers make a h#ll of a difference! 2.25 all the way even with a medi-ochre muffler like the Walker I have makes a big difference. Put a good muffler on there with higher flow catalytic converter and you have pretty much capped out all of the easy stuff.... after that is shave the heads and boost the compression to 10:1 and you have a rock'n'roll Pathy!

I spent my lunch fixing the non-operative tail light (already did the passenger side during the summer) and replaced the socket with a new one from NAPA then filed, wire brushed and welded a slab of soft steel to the rusty area behind the rear wheel to keep the tire from throwing dirty water/sand and salt directly at my electrical connections. I also removed, disassembled and wd-40ed ( verb?... noun?) the rear wiper amplifier box and the one for the power door locks..... Although I'm sure that just removing the 5CCs of water from inside was more than enough care. Forgot to plug the ECU in after the welding and had a moment of panic when I tried to start it. Oh... and I lit myself on fire for a second because I was, once again, welding in a t-shirt while lying down. I do NOT recommend that.

Although there is one bonus of living in that salty part of the northeast: is that every nut and bolt stays inside the socket until you pull them out... free nutholders!

And since this thread is now active again I would just like to add: still on 31"x10.5....like a couple of years ago.... when I revived this one from the graveyard.

Those are most likely in the Wiring Diagrams appendix. It came as a separate manual. There are a few things listed in regular manual but none of the schematics. I have one but there is no way for me to scan it or take anything less than 4-5 pictures of one single page..( for clarity ). But I can lay it out on the floor at home tonight and post pictures.... lots and lots of pictures.

I am, in theory, putting a 2" Fleurys Special just as soon as my guy comes back with the spring compressors I lent him 3 months ago. Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Did you get this repaired? Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

Sweet! I had a great time watching the GPS tracking over the weekend. What class were you racing?