Rebelord

Rear brace? Never heard of such. But there is the "Missing Link" for sub frame. Connects to the rear bolts of the a-arms. Linky: Jackson AutoSport

Remember if you install lift springs in the rear. But leave the front stock. You will have have high amount of rake. If you want to keep it more stock height. Then get the higher rate monroe coils for the rear and replace the shocks. Easy to do. Just need a good jack, jack stands and time. Extra pair of hands helps out a lot too. Edit: Link to pic with stock fronts and AC rear coils. To show amount of rake: masterryan's current situation.

The original poster said: 90-95 Rear spacers. NOT 96-04

Ok. If you decide to do any part outs let me know. Looking for a few pieces.

Parting it out? Or whole truck only? (Should probably be in parts for sale.)

Damn. Well, if you want to take a ride up there tomorrow let me know. I should be available after 12 noon tomorrow.

From this thread I take it the DEI stuff isnt working out so well? Remember I can give you the info for the full 1" aluminum radiator down here. Runs great for me. Stop n go heavy traffic with trailer I say below 199* F. Once moving back down to 175-180* F

If you can get one from a wrecking yard for el cheapo. Then worth a shot.

True. Im still not fully familiar with Nissan engines. Just past experience of running small blocks with no T-stats. Also, ran many GM LSx and Ford Modular engines with no T-stats in AZ. Never had issues. However, we were all modded and pushing quite a bit of power. So detonation was always a concern. *Cooler is better* in that sense. The VG is a iron block, aluminum head correct? If so, then no t-stat shouldnt be a issue. However someone with some more experience with the sports car Nissans could probably chime a lot better info.

From your posts that your in the desert most of the time. I would run no thermostat summer time. I have had no issues with Napa ones for the past 20 something years. They have the premium 170* one for $16

Changed fuel filter. Napa Gold (Wix) <br />Removed stock side steps. They were rotted out. Pulled a few plugs to check em. Good to go. Sent from smert fone<br />

THAT IS AWESOME! 'Course I am still waiting to see what you come up with shoesandsocks.

Nice! To bad I really need a barrier basically right behind the front seats. My truck is my work truck.

2" of lift is the max you will get with coils on the Pathfinder. That is with the AC lift. OME, Ironman are both about 1.75" with Fluerys/NX4 spacers up front. The subframe drop can be either 2" or 4". The base kit is $495, but you still need a few things. But they offer that for $210 more. Plus you still need a set of rear WJ springs to match the front. Available from Krypton Fabrications.

Fuse, relay. <br />Didn't know R50 had drl either. <br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br />

At full throttle you will be in 2nd gear from ~30-60mph. As for transmission additives. I have never been fond of them. I think of them more as a bandaid if needed. Do your filter change, use the correct fluid see how it goes. If it continues to give you grief then have it diagnostic done at a reputable transmission place.

In the FSM, AT page 309 gives you the MPH and which gearing for given MPH whether half throttle or full throttle. But here is a quick print screen of the chart.

Woot Woot! Have a beer!

Ya. Sorry about that. Took for granted that I am in the US. But 114 to Canada isnt bad at all. Hopefully it works out. Oh, make sure you mark everything before you pull the old one. Unless you are planning on re timing it. Which is a PITA to see the timing tab and mark btw.

Nah. No popcorn needed. His point is valid. Just that IMO the size piping needed for our engines 3.0/3.3/3.5 the difference is close to null. Considering we dont need full 2" dual for proper flow. Getting a little technical. But has anyone ever determined the Volumetric Efficiency of our engines? Cant imagine its much higher than 80% at best. (Someone needs to shoe horn a LSx engine in one of these!)

In the FSM there is a section on how to test your ignition coil. Check that. Plus the resistor that is on the outside of the distributor. There a section on how to test that. Testing those is how I found mine bad. As once those were wonky I pulled my distributor apart.

Do you get any stumbling under load? Does it mostly happen when the engine is warm? On a cold start all is well but then starts the stumble? Sounds similar to when my distributor went out. 1st: Check your fuel pressure. Making sure the fuel pump and regulator is good to go. How to and what pressures are in the FSM. Pretty easy to follow. To check your distributor. You can take off the cap and rotor. Once off, you should see some screws to take off the internal cover. Take that off carefully. Now you will see the coil and ignition module. You can check all the wires in there for any loose connections, corrosion etc. But, you can also remove the components easily. What I found, was my coil was grounding out to the distributor housing on the bottom. To where just looking at everything assembled up top looked normal. If your fuel pressure is good to go. I would check these components in your distributor. A quick check and Amazon has our distributor for Link: $97

Like Precise1 says, check your exhaust gaskets.

Looks good.

Here is a video of OHC lifter tick. Does it sound similar?