Rebelord

Theres a whole TSB about checking grounding and even adding a ground harness and reflash of the PCM for a problem like that. Just do a quick search for TSBs on here.

Is the strut rot bad?

Nice. Good set of tires makes a world of difference.

Throw it up on jack stands, get a ratchet and start checking stuff.

Did you follow the FSM for tightening the front bearings? I dont know the torques off hand. But its something like; tight, spin few times, back off. Tight, spin back off. Lightly tighten. Done. The final torque is basically finger tight IMO. But read the FSM it has exact procedures and torques. If your front bearings are too tight. That can cause issues.

Take your hub off and inspect the wheel bearings. Fairly easy to do. Something is amiss though. Check everything. Could be a stick caliper, slider etc. Once diagnosed, if they will swap your rotors, do it. Possibly pads too if they have gotten hot enough often enough.

http://www.4x4design.com/Pathfinder_R50_96-04.html Scroll down to Control Crossarm Link

Not sure if Steev posted on some of the other Pathfinder forums. Hopefully this can take steam soon.

My 3.3 its on drivers side right above the center cross-member and steering rack. Behind the plastic air dam/wanna-be skid plate.

Most of your questions have been answered already. I run 31" tires right now. Lifts available: Old Man Emu (Firmer than stock; ~1.75" lift), Iron Man (Stock type ride; ~1.5" lift), AC Springs (Very firm ride; 2" lift). Krypton Subframe drop. Can use stock springs for stock ride, or combo with lift springs. Aftermarket support? Limited, but the community is very supportive of homemade modifications and ideas. The R50 as a whole? Nissan built these things pretty tough. 33 spline from transfer case all the way to rear tires, front hubs are 28 spline. Still very tough. 3.3L engine is tough and takes a beating. 3.5L is just as tough but has much more power. There is a lot more, just check out the threads and stickies.

When no junk yards have any for parts because as soon as they hit a yard they are immediately chop shopped then shipped to South America. Because of their popularity in South America, your insurance company even states your rates are higher because of theft to send working vehicles there. (The joys of living in Miami /sigh)

Have you downloaded the FSM yet? There is a sticky for it at the top of this sub forum.

Find another exhaust shop if he only insists on upselling you. No point in spending more money than needed. But if you do have it all re done. Try to find a good shop that has a mandrel bender. Crimp bends are just awful IMO.

Quick easy thing to check is your rack and pinion bushing. Mine were shot and would produce something close to that.

Looks nice. Once I do get my new front struts in the front with the strut spacers. I'll see how the truck ends up sitting. Would be nice, if you could put them with the springs on the front strut to add a lil lift.

If you have a smart phone with bluetooth. Check out the Torque App. Works with bluetooth OBDII adapters. The app costs $5 and the adapter costs about $20-35 on Amazon. Its what I use and works very well. App: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-PIC18F2480-diagnostics-compatible/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377009766&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+obd2

I tow the work trailer a lot with my 99.0. The work trailer weighs 1620lbs. Tows fine, obviously slower on take offs, longer stopping distance. I get 16mpg with or with out it. But, the max speed it tows it comfortably is 60-65. Could do 70, but mileage really drops and the transmission starts to struggle on hills. Good thing for the monster cooler I have for it. If that trailer weighs 2500lbs. You will notice it. Both in sag in the rear if its not balanced for proper tongue weight, and start/stop power. You could invest the ~250 to put on a hitch. Then do a test run, or tow it someplace close to get a feel. See how it feels to you. If you do go another Pathfinder. I would highly recommend one that has the 3.5 in it over the 3.3.

This made me laugh!

There was another thread recently about these type of coil spacers for the rear. I'd have to find it. But I believe the user ended up using Daystar's rear spacers for same model 4Runner and they worked.

Could just be plugged up. Sometimes a pick can be used to free up the check ball. Or just take it off and clean it up then re install.

Be careful of TAG. They have a history. Just google em. FYO

When you exceed the GVWR just with a full tank of gas, camping supplies and two passengers.

Wasnt much there to be honest.

Something very important there: GVWR First, I would go weigh your truck empty. No cargo. Just a full tank of gas. See how much you have to play with. Example: My truck, max GVWR is 5150. With my work tools and two of us in the truck. Its at 5000lbs. Doesnt leave room for much else!

You know what aggravating? I was there today and completely forgot to ask about this. BTW, small shop.