Rebelord

Throw the rear end up on jack stands. Chock the front wheels good. Neutral and rotate the rear tires. Should be able to find it easier. From that, check and make sure you dont have a stick or something caught up anywhere.

Sup guys. I know quite a few of you know about PCoA the Pathfinder forum that is like ours here but based in AUS. I have tried to register for the forum because there is some good info on there. But keeps telling me my @gmail, @hotmail etc emails are not allowed? Anyone here been able to register for those forums?

I carry two quarts of that myself. Thats the fluid my dealer told to me to use if I dont want to buy the Nissan branded Matic-D. If anyone else can check or confirm at their local dealer.

The Iridium IX plugs are only designed to last about 50k miles at most. NGK labels them as "Ultra High Performance". So, either run your trusty V-Groove, G type or the Laser Platinum/Iridium plugs. The Laser versions are designed to be 100k plugs. Speaking of which, Napa has a coupon online for 20% off total in store purchase!! Go get them plugs!!

1999.0 GVWR 5150 GAWR FR 2600 GAWR RR 2850 The Gross Average compared to the Gross Vehicle makes no sense in numbers wise. But who knows what Nissan was thinking.

More details and pics would be great as many have tried but failed when doing relocation kits. Sent from smert fone

Most likely the factory cooler in the bottom of the radiator has a pinhole leak. So bypassing it is priority. You should also flush your coolant in the engine. If your in a hot climate you can do a 2 gal jug of the coolant and the rest water you'll be fine. Sent from smert fone

You can cap the tranny cooler on the radiator. However I wouldn't just rubber cap it. Remove the hard tubes and metal plug cap it. If you have the factory tranny cooler you can use that solo temporary but I would add a larger one to supplement that ASAP. Dont tow with that small one. You can find em at pepboys for like 40-50 at most. If you want to replace the radiator call Sunbelt Radiators in Miami, Fl. Check in my build thread about em. But More later work Sent from smert fone

Nice dude. Looks good! Jelly here of it!! Dude!! Where did you get that Zombie Defense Vehicle decal?! Do want. Also which gauge pod is that? Need one similar for setting tranny temp gauge and such.

Never knew that. Wonder why they dont have them on their website. Sent from smert fone

Those with R50s check your tool bag with your jack. Mine has the tools for the spark plugs. Works great Sent from smert fone

Since when did AC start making strut spacers? Sent from smert fone

Welcome back. Goodyear Duratrac IMO Sent from smert fone

Has one of you checked the tranny fluid level and condition? Also with the larger tires, would be wise to install a tranny cooler in there. Pretty easy to do.

I called it.

Happen to look for groups made on Facebook for old units I was in during my time in the Marine Corp. Found some that were made. Upon which I was able to look up old friends. Bringing back old memories. Some good, some bad. In the end it's nice to see old brothers doing well. As anyone that is or was on the military can attest to; those you served with are truly your brothers and sisters. Semper Fidelis

As Mythbusters say: Plausible. Using Anti-seize is fine. Just dont use a handful per plug.

If they are complete. Even better. Kinda funny that the aftermarket availability for R50's is almost 100% better outside the US.

You could probably sell that ARB bumper for a few hundred bucks. I would take it and take the time to part it out as much as possible. Keep the wheels if I were you. Or could try putting the whole thing for sale on Expedition Portal. I know those trucks are fairly popular there. May have some luck.

I have read about the Bilstiens that are available. They are like the Koni inserts. You take your old strut housing and have to cut and modify then weld on the Bilstiens. Granted there are quite a few shops that do it in Australia. But no one in the US.

Nice. Would love pics and such. Just make a members ride thread. Side note: I tried to register for PCOA but it wont let me. Not sure if they aren't allowing US IP to register. Sent from smert fone

One option for a cheaper code reader is a app called Torque and a bluetooth reader from Amazon. The app is $5 and the readers are about $20-25. Later today I could give a link. But they are easy to find. Just check the customer comments on Torque app compatibility. Works great for me. Sent from smert fone

Was talking about the head warping. But if water didn't get that high then yea, shouldn't have to worry about it.

Nice of them to give you a loaner. But also interesting that they are getting stumped on it also. OMG, this reminded me of a issue I had with my buddies 5.0 Mustang. Similar type issue, couldnt set a proper timing, non consistent idle, ran rich then lean etc etc. What it was, was the intake manifold gasket to the heads. I know yours hasnt been off. But IIRC we do have aluminum heads on a iron block. AND you have played in some water recently. What are the chances of the head possibly getting hit with a bunch of water and warping some. But just enough to cause a lower intake manifold gasket leak? Long shot, not sure on how to do the proper vacuum test for it. But something..

Good News! I heard back from the bigger distributor in Australia. Ok, those parts numbers are for the Chinese entry level shocks and struts. Which the guy did not recommend unless you had no money and had to replace em. But I did find out this information. I will be getting things square on my end to purchase a set of King Springs and the Tough Dog struts. Maybe not the rears since I did JUST replace my rear shocks. But having a matching set is kinda nice.. Waiting on permission to post his info here for you guys to call/email him. But the company is Wholesale Suspension www.wholesalesuspension.com.au