Rebelord

Sounds good. Probably take a wheel off today to clean up and verify. <br />If it is 40mm then the wheels i like that are 16x8.5 and +18mm offset. Giving that the offset calculator is right. Would give me 3mm more clearance inside and outside would extend out 41mm past stock. Which will fit very nicely IMO. <br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br />

Banner Tire South has one. Dont know price but they've been pretty straight. Sometimes cheaper if you pay cash. <br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br />

Nice! Who are you going to have mount and balance them? Here is the link to find who had Road Force Balancing available. Which is worth it IMO. Link: http://www.gsp9700.com/search/FindLocations.cfm

I have been running the Valvoline Next Gen High Mileage oil. Usually you can get it cheap at Walmart like posted above. Plus, if it has as much recycled oil as claimed; then maybe we can say were helping the environment. Plus check advertisements for local auto parts stores. Usually they will have it on sale for ~2xx a quart plus $2-5 off any filter. Which I then usually pick up the Napa Gold or Mobil 1 filter depending who has the sale.

When its time, I'd support Fluerys and just order some from him. T6 Aluminum, threaded and Powder coated. Most of the machine shops around me would charge about ~$150 just to CNC cut/mill the spacers. No threading and I would still have to get em powder coated afterwards.

Didnt take the tire off yet. Yes, on the outside I have the usual 15x7 JJ some JJWWMM squigly markings. JDOT. Took a peak on the inside. There was some stuff caked up. But about the only thing I saw was WN5/S? and possibly a 40. But Ill have to take the tire off tommorow to be sure.

Guys, need some knowledge here. I have been scouring the web and I cannot find the stock wheel specs for my wheels. This is driving me bonkers atm. Reason is, I am wheel/tire shopping. Not quite ready to buy. But getting my "wish list" down. These are the wheels I have that I need the specs for: Factory SE 15x7 6spoke alloy wheels. These are the wheels I am looking at: Level 8 Scorpion 16x8.5 available in 18mm or -6mm offset. Depending on stock wheel specs determines which ones would provide the fit I am looking for. TIA! Rebelord

Just did my write up of my install of my trans cooler in my thread. Linky: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35248-rebelords-19990-r50/

Thanks town. Got my cooler in. Will be updating my Member Ride thread on it. Instead of hijacking this thread.

On the topic of trans coolers. Which line is in and which one is out on the radiator for the tranny. Installing a Hayden 678/9 this week. Was thinking of just bypassing all together. As I think my rad part may be clogged. When cold when I go in drive. Takes a sec to engage drive. But reverse is instant. Trans fluid is nice red not burnt smelling. <br />Live in South Florida so no cold temps. <br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br />

1.75 in / dual<br />2.0 out<br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br />

Did you set the timing? I believe its 15° +/- 2°<br />But check the FSM. <br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br />

Awesome to hear you finally got it!

As this apply's to pretty much any modern vehicle. I need a replacement for my early 99 Pathfinder. Just looking for a good place to get one. Prefer NEW, but dont want to pay dealership prices of $100+

As I said in my post above. Pull your distributor cap. Then remove the cover in the distributor that covers the coil and ignition module. You can pull those using a phillips. Check and see if your coil is shorting out to the distributor. Plus check the module for any damage. Those symptoms are what I had when my coil ground out, then eventually fried the module. But if you can catch it early enough. You can find the coil solo online for fairly cheap. Over replacing the whole distributor like I did.

Thanks for the info on the ride quality. Arent there metal framed pet barriers? Hmm. Most of the metal ones just use tensioners to keep pressure to keep em up. If you get the net, could try that spray that is supposed to keep dogs from chewing your couch etc.

How is the ride of the OME HD springs compared to stock? I expect stiffer. But I dont want to be bashing my kidneys riding around. Heh

Since I cant edit my post above, I'll add this. For those wondering about safety of the engine drop etc in a accident. For years, I have been a F-body buff. 3rd/4th Gens. 1982-2002 Camaro/Firebird. Of which I have made them into autocross cars, to full on drag queens. My first autocross project was a 1990 RS 305 5spd. Which I did full subframe connectors with the x-brace across the middle. |X| <-- like that. Plus, lower reinforcement bars that went from the crossmemberr back to the frame connectors. Up top was a full triangulated brace. Across both strut mounts, then back to a center point on the cowl/fire wall. I tell you, compared to stock. That car you could jack from the center of the side and the whole car would lift up. The 305 didnt have enough power to get into trouble speed wise. But I could take corners at great speeds with out a blink. (Full other suspension was done with wheels and tires.) Now, onto the accident part. Me and some buds were going through some 2 lane back roads in NC while we were stationed there. We hadnt been on these roads yet. So were taking it easy. But still going through some nice twisties about 35mph. Posted speed was 20-25mph. Needless to say, going through a sweeping left hand curve, there was a large tractor taking up the whole road. I went off the road to the right to avoid. But as I went back onto the road. The rear went out on me. I popped the clutch into 2nd gear and tried to power straight out of it. But all I did was catch and then propel myself across the road into a very large old tree. The tree hit first on the passenger side front headlight, then made its way to the drivers side area. Did the engine drop? No. It did get pushed. BUT the fact that everything got pushed because of the bracing, the bracing actually kept the engine from being in my lap. Seatbelt plus airbags worked great. But I think if I didnt have the braces I would have been much worse off than some early style airbag burn and a slight scratch. They are worth it. Plus with as much off roading that I see a lot of you guys do. I think would help with unwanted body flex on the trails. Just need to get mine in to see how im going to fab up a center skid plate to attach to it.

Have you checked the volts your alternator is putting out while running? If its a solid 12-14v. But your battery keeps getting drained then you have a short somewhere. I had a phone charger cause that for me once. I just had to be the one that stays in the back port. But time to bust out the test light and Fluke and chase wires. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Wow! Cant tell if this is stickied or not. But needs to be IMO. One of the first things I noticed while loading up on tools and towing a trailer was a loose feeling front. Saw this and immediately ordered one. So others know. It was $60 shipped to me in Miami, Fl. Which is not bad. Now is just the wait for it. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

OMG! That speaker bar is AWESOME!! I wonder if I could put that in my 99.0?? But all the yards around here dont have any pathfinders. Unless someone in the Miami-Dade area knows of a yard that has a bunch. (They like to chop shop em back to running, then export to S.A.) Or possibly by a retrofit or make something.

Hmm. Would a older 3.0 or 2.8 mechanical distributer work? Or us the guts to convert yours to mechanical? If not, then might have to find one you can control with a separate ignition box. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Yep, but my wheel stayed off key either direction. This is what I had left of my rack bushing. The more complete one was the passenger side. You see what was left of the drivers side.

In the Brakes FSM. There is a section to diagnose ABS. MIne was pages 40-41. I had to ground a pin on the consult to ground, then turn the key on and the ABS light flashes to give you the codes. Like pulling codes from OBD 1 cars. 12 is the handshake code. Check it out. Was able to get the code 26 for Front Left. I would check to make sure the rings arent caked up etc. But if you have to change a sensor. Definitely shop around. But I was able to get OEM one on Amazon for $104. BTW, right now, Standard Motor Products is making these for Nissan. Mine came in a SMP box, but had Nissan stamped on the sensor and the correct Nissan part number printed on the wire and engraved on the plastic housing.

1999.0 with 168k Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2