Rebelord

How high did it rev? If it revved high enough could have kissed a piston with a valve or two. Also, a high possibility is the timing belt skipped a tooth or two. As far as setting the timing. Just read your FSM for your year. It can most definitely be set by you.

Its pretty easy to do. If your nervous just start off with a finer grit sand paper bit till you get the feel for it. I used to clean up stock TPI intakes a lot back in the day. Along with stock aluminum GM heads. Ah..the days.

Porting is when you make the area larger. Polishing is when you clean it up to a smooth surface. <br />A few tricks is to port match the TB to the intake. Also to port match the upper and lower intakes. <br />Polishing them up helps also. Just time consuming. But a dremel with sanding bits makes it easier. <br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br />

The theory craft of exhaust flow rates has been done over and over. Easy to find on hot rod forums. Especially Mustang, LSX engine forums etc. <br />There is actually a formula to calculate it the flow rates of pipe comparisons. But I dont know it off the top of my head. To say the wall friction will make that much of a difference is null. The amount of friction is next to nothing. <br />Where you get the greatest difference is the velocity of the exhaust gasses as they exit. Which needs to be balanced with the needs of the engine. <br />Check out the exhaust section of LS1tech.com<br />Tons of information there on exhaust and its corresponding theory craft. With proven results showing gains and losses. <br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br />

Rockfordcv. Com <br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br /><br />

Have you tried putting the boots on from the one company that makes the good one? Dont remember the name but there is a thread on it. <br />

Hmm. I dont think that is intended. In tank electric fuel pumps should stay cool enough running just when the truck is running. What you can do to test if it is the fuel pump. Is go ahead and remove the inspection cover for it. Take it for a drive when it is hot outside. Then when you shut off the truck and hear the humming. Open the hatch and feel if the fuel pump is still running. If so, maybe the heat over time may have degraded some insulation somewhere causing a ground to keep the pump running even when the truck is shut off. Long shot, but worth a try at least.

Made a snorkel for my truck. Details here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35248-rebelords-19990-r50/?p=665242 Teaser pic:

Oh man, sorry to hear about the wreck. With that in mind now. If he has any back problems or anything that a rougher ride would fatigue or hurt after awhile. Then IronMan is the way to go. You get the lift, but retain stock ride quality. The AC lift I hear is pretty rough. But I'm also used to driving a older '80 and '82 3/4 ton 4x4 Chevy's. Now, thats a rough ride! That sir, has been the funniest line I have read recently.

Oh, and check out Stoic's thread here on a way to lower that roof rack. Clean and simple way to do it. Dont have to use the bars he did, im sure some 1" square tubing would work just as well. Thread -> http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/82167-My-2001-Pathfinder-(R50-)-mild-budget-build?p=1207452#post1207452

Nice. I remember your New Member thread. Remember, with the AC coils. They do have the whole 'top out' issue until they settle for quite a while. But if your looking for a quicker fix. There are the IronMan springs available. A common vendor for them is Camel4x4.com . Each set is $120+shipping. Those give a solid 1.5" lift. Does tend to have a rake to it though. So other tend to run the NX4 spacers up front. There are the NX4 ones, and the ones from Fluery -> http://www.4x4design.com/Pathfinder_R50_96-04.html Which will even out the front. Shockwarehouse.com you can get a full set of KYBs for ~$220 shipped. Thats the front struts and rear shocks. Bamn! For just about $500 you can have the springs and KYBs. Add about $150 more for the strut spacers if you want them. I would personally. Otherwise, trying to squeeze those 32's under there. On a trail he will rub, scrap a lot. Even being used. At the very least, could probably get away with a simple coil spring spacer under the rear springs to add about 1". Usually you can find em at Pepboys, Autozone for like $10 each or the set. I wouldnt trust them, but may be a quick bandaid for the immediate future. More pics! Keep us updated! Rebelord

Thats one thing I have noticed. On the pre facelift Pathfinders. The steps actually are flush with the frame rails underneath. So, they are kinda a impromptu form of sliders, or some protection. But on the facelifted Pathfinders. They tend to hang lower that the frame rails underneath. Thats the only reason I havent removed mine yet. But I think I might. They are pretty rusted. Keep getting cut going under for cleaning and oil changes.

If the truck is fairly local to you. Ask the seller to accompany you to a shop so you can have it checked out. Most transmission shops will do that for you. Some charge a fee, some may want a appointment. Can also see what the local dealership might charge for a vehicle inspection. I know that my local dealer pretty much charges at least $100 to do pretty much anything. But you might have better luck.

Seafoam does NOT kill your cats. ;-) <br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br />

These are worn rack and pinion bushings. They both should be uniform round rubber bushing. Fairly easy to change. No need to remove the rack.

I read a thread not long ago, that someone got CVs from Rockauto and they were binding up. Might take me a bit to find it. But not the first I have heard of it. Edit found it: Wasnt rock auto. But has some info in it. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35117-cv-axle-shudder/page-2?hl=binding&do=findComment&comment=657435

Aftermarket option. From Sunbelt Radiators. More details: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35248-rebelords-19990-r50/?p=663841

Replaced my radiator. Actually found a larger than stock radiator!! 1" thick. Pics are up in my Members Ride thread. Also replaced the Alternator belt. It was toast.

Probably one of the best Hi Lift accesories I have ever seen. http://bmihydraulics.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=garden_flypage.tpl&product_id=47&category_id=12&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=23

Through all my years doing hot rods. I have had Napa, Dynomax, Thrush, Flowmaster, Magnaflow, Borla, etc etc mufflers. By far my favorite has been Magnaflow mufflers. They seem to have a nice idle tone, that is noticeable but not obnoxious. Yet when at full throttle. Open up nicely and have again, a nice tone. Plus with most others I always had drone and rasp sound problems.

Ok. Just how the video looks to me then.

Dude those are nice. Would look pimp on a hard body Pathfinder. <br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br />

Without getting into a bunch of technical jargon. The factory dual 1.75" into the muffler provides more than enough flow for our trucks. The factory dual 1.75" pipes have the same flow rate as a single 2.5" pipe. (Actually 0.639 cfm less). To keep the same flow rate for a dual in, single out muffler. Would be to find one that has dual 1.75" in, 2.5" single out. But a single 2" out is fine. Here is a chart to show you:

Stop! Its Hammer Time! Heh, had to do it. Yep, BFH is the way to go. As Trogdor said, using a nut on the end helps with it too. Plus having a washer and open ended is needed to draw the new one on. Use grease and be very liberal with lube to get the new one to pull on.