Rebelord

Just checked my diffs and transfer case. Diffs are good. Nice honey color and smelled good. Transfer case though not so well. Drained and filled. Transfer case fluid was black. No bueno. Sent from smert fone

Finally did my oil change and fresh NGK platinum g-power plugs. Purrs like a kitten Sent from smert fone

It will work in front and rear; both.

With flares. Nice wheels, what are those? Oh and 33" with just the AC lift and spacers? Sick!

Yep the wheel cylinder needs to be replaced. If you are replacing the drums. Then why not replace the pads? Unless they are outrageous priced in your area. But you can keep current one from what I can see in the pics.

I usually go about 4k miles between changes. Just rolled 174k. Want to keep everything nice and clean. But if I can push the M1 to 6k that would be great! Right now, on a dealer oil change. Had a coupon for $19 oil change at the Nissan dealer. >.> <.< Not sure if I still trust them... Ill do this one M1 with the Bosch Blue extended life filter for 6k. See how it goes. (Edit: I do drive for work a lot. Towing 2-3k lbs trailer upwards of 280 miles a day sometimes. Heavy traffic/stop n go to highway speeds.)

Good enough for me. Still cant complain with the price for 5qts. $23 out the door for Mobil 1 full synthetic.

Going to exchange for the 5W-30. They even have the Bosch Blue filters for $11. Just pick one of them up while I am there.

G-bodys are a valid choice as well. However there are some things to consider with those. They do have a solid axle out back. However it is a small 8 bolt or the smaller 10 bolt. The 10 bolt is better but its not the same 10 bolt that was in trucks etc. When you get into the performance models some had the larger 10 bolt, some had a Bog-warner 9 bolt. You'll find the 9 bolt in the Regal T-types, Olds 442 Cutlass, rarely in the Monte SS. With the Monte SS. Beware of cheap clones. Easy to take a regular Monte and throw a few body parts on it to make it clone. You'll have to run the VIN or check the RPO codes IF they are still there. Depending on year they can be a sticker in the glove box, under the seat etc. I had a 1981 Malibu Classic 4 door. That thing was a blast! Bench seats and all. Threw a 383 in it. Kept the stock 2.73s in the rear end. Would get 18mpg on the highway cruising 60+ Be really slick and find a G-body wagon.

Sounds like the pads are locked to the drums and the click/pop you heard was the pads moving out with the drum and removing parts along the way. Right now, make sure to spray everything good with a liquid penetrate like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster etc. Especially all metal on metal contact points. Your kinda in that grey zone to either get the drum off and fix what needs to be fixed. I wouldnt advise driving to a shop unless its last resort. If you do have access to the adjuster, keep trying to loosen it. (Cant recall which way, but should be in the FSM).

Easy enough. But why the hate towards -20 over -30?

Picked up some Mobil 1 5W-20 High Mileage last night. Now if it will stop raining I can do my oil change. 4k miles in 50 days. (Which btw the 5 qt jug is only $21 at Walmart!)

You've been here long enough you have permission to stay. Actually you should because you can pass on knowledge you have to others. Which will help beyond owning a Pathy. Plus you get to keep up with the trends to know whats up when its time to re acquire another pathfinder Sent from smert fone

I run a 200 micron teflon coated SS screen mesh. 99.99% Water proof.

LS1 F-body. Can find them for cheap. Respond well to easy mods. My old 2001 auto was cam only. (Futral F14 Camshaft, stock heads.) Rest bolt on's and was running low 12s in the 1/4 mile.

Good tires. Get the edge guard with the shells and glass beads. I know a lot of jeep guys that run em and love em. Sent from smert fone

Sell? What!? Eh no.

That part I dont know.

It acts as the proportioning valve for the brakes. Easiest way I can think is to plumb in a manual prop valve.

Keep checking it and run some out into a jug as you pick up more ATF fluid. By chance you may have caught it just as the issue was starting to where you could save it for some time. But just remember to keep a good eye on things.

I'm running Napa wires and NGK plugs, OEM cap and distributor. Works great.

Check out Level 8 wheels. They have some very nice wheels in 8" and 8.5" width with some back spacing options. They are sold by Discount Tire and on Amazon. But they arent $50 a wheel steely wheely cheap. Website: http://www.level8wheels.com/ These are the wheels I want to get. Available 16x8.5 with 18mm or -6 offset.

Best you can do is turn the engine over to pump fluid out then replace with fresh from the fill tube. Might as well call a few places and see what they charge to flush the tranny. If its $80-100 then I'd scrape together the money and go for it. Just make sure its a reputable place that has the proper equipment to do it right; ans they dont just do what you ultimately want to do. Sent from smert fone

Yep, heard it. ^^^ Sounds like a lil gremlin with a bell! Man, I would still put it up on jack stands good. Chocked good. Let it idle in reverse while on the stands to try to see if you can isolate a side. But if not. Then with the truck and everything off. Start checking everything that can rotate in reverse. Unfortunately, thats going to be one of them gremlins.

Then its clutch related most likely. Another possible, is possibly worn engine and tranny mount letting the exhaust rattle and tap the body somewhere. Which only gets torque that particular way under load in reverse.