stioc

I used a bit of JB-weld but being impatient that I am I tightened them even before the JB Weld set in. Just grab the top and pull up carefully using an extra nut and vicegrips while you tighten the real nylock nut, it will create enough friction for it to work.

Duratracs never came with Kevlar, if this is a recent thing then perhaps but if you want Kevlar from Goodyear you gotta get the MTRs which go out of round after a while. Duratracs, even the E-load ones I got had 2 sidewalls. On the warranty/insurance thing, ATs and MTs - that's the difference. Yet still it differs from store to store, I know someone who had purchased his KM2s with the extra 'no questions asked replacement insurance' and actually used it. Yep he managed to put two holes in the sidewalls of two KM2s one in Death Valley, same place where I managed to pick up the shallow sidewall slashes on my Duratracs

Got any pics? I've never seen a blacked out front grill on a white Pathy especially with the gray bumpers/fender flares. I like how mine looks stock because you can see the mesh part...but I do wonder how blacking out the grill or even just the edges/grill surround will look.

I see what you guys are saying but seriously if you can put a hole in a 3/16" DOM tubing or equivalent you should be driving an M1 Abram I have never seen let alone experience a situation where a slider cracked. Also remember there's a difference between volume (CFM) and pressure (psi), sliders can only hold very little amount of air. If you're talking about running air-tools you'll need a fairly large tank. AlexRex mounted his Viair tank (1 or 1.5gal) in the stock tire location under the truck tuck well out of the way but he said running air tools was alas just a nice dream. Also x2 on what SilverPath said.

I mounted my MV-50 next to the battery. I don't have a tank for it and haven't needed it for my 32s but if I had your setup and wanted a tank it would go under the truck (where the spare tire goes on the later models) or I would use the sliders as air tanks. XPLORx4 has had that setup (sliders) for years that predate us. In fact, his setup is so slick he connects the air hoses to the tires and walks away...the pressure switches and his artistic plumbing of the various T's and L's takes care of the rest.

The truck looks great A! It looks ready to take on the Rubicon trail I used to have Duratracs and while I liked them for their stickiness and traction I didn't like their sidewall strength, I had several shallow cuts on the sidewall after a couple of offroading trips. Hopefully they've improved them. I ended up trading mine back to discount tire and switch to the BFG ATs for a $150 out of pocket. The BFG ATs look very tame compared to the Duratracs but have very tough sidewalls. You shouldn't have too much rub since you don't have the fender flares and sounds like you already addressed the front rubbing point with a grinder How's the torque/power going up to the 33s and the wider 33s at that Lastly how're the CV angles with the 1" spacer? I have the NX4 one sitting in the garage but haven't (needed to) install them yet.

Oh here's one of my neighbor's XJ on 38s that works well (correct gearing, full spools on both axles, sitting on 38s) but is usually trailered to the events unless closeby, my truck looks like a sedan next to it LOL

Oh man, please don't! Proportionally your truck looks so good right now...I'm never a fan of over doing it unless there's a real reason behind it. Funny story, I did a trail run with a Jeep XJ on 38s he was planning to go to 40s next. First uphill obstacle of the day (his very first 'offroad event') - the tires trashed the fenders and the engine didn't have the power to go up hill. He ended up skipping most of the optional harder bypasses. At the end of the event he was asking if 33s would be a good setup for him. Nice guy too. There's something to be said about a well proportioned truck and for me on the R50 Pathfinder a 2-4" lift with 33s looks right - and works well. Anything more looks a bit over done, but to each his own Here's mine with the lowly 32" tires and a lowly AC lift (no spacers) but it can do technical trails with full axle tuck (after trimming the fenders several times). I may add the NX4 1" (or machine it down to .75") spacer that's sitting in the garage if I add a bumper/winch etc. In an ideal world I would have another inch of lift and 33s but I don't want to start breaking CVs and the setup I have actually suits my needs both on and off road.

Besides being too long and have to be cut short do the xj bumper mounts line up (width and spacing wise) with the Pathy's frame where the stock bumper mounts? That would be a great coincidence.

That sucks man. Next time you decide to sell something (cough TJM cough) I'm just up the road from you BTW, your truck looks awesome, great job!

You only need wheel spacers so the tires don't rub on the lower strut perch, chances are that with your Procomp wheel's backspacing you're already clear of that so 33s will not require additional wheel spacers. Well I should qualify that by saying 255/85/16 should fit and is the perfect tire size for non rock-crawlers IMHO. You will rub the lower fender area (near the doors) though so be ready to bend some sheet metal back. You will also find the engine feeling lethargic without judicious amounts of throttle unless you go with better gearing. For me I wanted to avoid all these hassles and decide to go with a skinny 32" tire and I'm very happy with them. They meet my needs just fine though I still secretly wish I'd gone with the 33s though. 255/85/16 BFG Mud Terrain KM2...drool.

I didn't like having it on the roof rack, I couldn't quite fit it under the rear seat without getting rid of the factory jack. I was left mounting it on the back or the front bumper, I chose the front because I (and more importantly the family) access the back hatch area almost constantly throughout our trips and didn't want anyone injuring themselves. Then I tested it on my recent trip to Moab and back, worked fantastic!

x2 2" would be my preference. If too short to allow proper torqueing of the bolts then may be 2.5" (since it's been done before).

Yeah, once after agreeing to help a friend change spark plugs on his 300ZX in college I told myself to never buy a Nissan...and what do I have now lol

Also, anyone know if there's a bolt-on upgrade available for the Pathys such as Titan's calipers, discs etc?

XPLORx4, which Akebono pads do you have specifically? I remember you mentioned a while back that you had EBC reds but I couldn't find them for my model year. I ended up with EBC greem 7000 series pads which improved the braking over whatever it had before but with the heavy 32s I'm still not comfortable with these brakes in emergency situations. I was lazy and didn't resurface the rotors so that could also explain why they haven't been a huge jump from stock. Although the EBCs came with a sandpaper like layer to bed the rotors in which wears off after a couple hundred miles. Anyway, I have stainless steel lines on order to improve the pedal feel, I'll probably also replace the booster check valve just to make sure the stock system is working as efficiently as possible. Next I'm looking for brake pads with a strong initial bite and trying to decide between Hawk LTS or Akebonos. Rotors wise I'm planning to get the Duralast Gold blanks from Autozone with a lifetime warranty.

I like the flares especially on the 2nd gen R50s Hey Capt, are you planning to do any wheeling? I ask because under flex as DW said you'll likely rub the fender flares. In fact, I had to do a bit of front bumper trimming to clear my 32s even on the streets. BTW, if you don't mind can you measure how tall the 33s are with the tape measure? I'm curious because my 32s are really 31s when installed.

Aw no way man. As others have said and AndyC in particular if there's a way to keep it you should especially after all the time and money you put into it. That Civic for $1800 is a saving of $1200 over your truck...a car that could potentially be in need of at least $200-300 worth of maintenance right off the bat so now you're really saving less than $1k and potentially some MPGs but at the cost of giving up on something you guys could enjoy every now and again. I would say at least reconsider

Hey now...I just prefer mine to look less Flintstone

:aok: Awesome! finally some closure...

If you can't get them to make one, you can make one yourself. It's not too hard. Here's the one I made: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34524-diy-5-missing-link/?hl=%2Bmissing+%2Blink

I said the same thing a few posts ago that this dealership doesn't seem very competent. If there are no other dealers around how about a reputable independent shop?

Looks great! I LOVE those 2003+ wheels, I wish I could find a set. I didn't realize it was 2wd. As for the issue, could be the MAF but start with the code otherwise it'll be a lot of guessing.

$100 for a preemptive fix is pretty reasonable. Running wheel spacers can blow up the flux capacitor on the CV axles and create a sine wave affecting the harmonic jiggawatter sensor in the ECM