stioc

wow nice! Are you planning to run 35s? I talked to Nitro a week or two ago and they told me they were in the process of making the front gears to match their existing rear set. I asked them if they would consider making 4.8 or 4.9 as most people would need those to go up to 33s but they said they didn't have any plans to offer another ratio Let us know how it all goes with the install etc.

If you have the 4.34 gears like me this chart I made for myself may help to visualize. I find the current gearing with my psuedo 32" tires to be OK in 4Lo up-hill but find it too low (have to use brakes) for steep downhill washed out or rutted terrain - due to the not-so-great crawl ratio. Another time I find the truck to be suffering from larger tires is when full laden in 2wd going up a 12% - 15% grade, trying to keep up with the cars while keeping the temps under 207F or so. Currently the only gears available are either from the few 1st gen R50 Pathys (96-99, make sure they are 4.63, not all were) or from Nitro Gear who's working on the 5.13 gears for the front diff and already have the rears in that ratio. Hope this helps.

Wow, nice work Rick! I've never seen this more but it makes sense. What about the lower links? they probably bind too?

^ about the sway bars I'll respond by PM to keep Steve's thread on topic.

$10k holy cow, I thought if I found one for under $500 I might get one but dang. Do you work at an independent repair shop or Nissan dealership?

You probably don't want a 1.5" rear spacer unless you're going for the stinkbug look I have 1" spacers all around with my 2" AC lift and unloaded the rear looks to sit slightly higher but with cargo etc it levels out about perfectly. As for the brake lines, I don't have a rear sway bar but my KYBs act as limiting straps (not good) and don't allow the brake line to extend past its max. What Bilsteins do you have? if they have a longer travel then you should probably opt for the brake extended line.

Keep in mind the terrain. 01silvapathy is in TX (flat). Out west (steep mountain roads) and even when I go offroad (loaded down with 600+lbs of passenger+cargo) even with 32s I feel my truck (3.5 VQ, stock gears) needs persuasion to get up over steep climbs and the transmission starts to get hot. I've thought about lusted for 33s as they would look perfect but I haven't done it yet for that very reason.

Wow, that's a lot of different codes, I wonder if they're all related to the same one culprit. I have an eternal P0505 ever since I cleaned the ICV with the idle high. It doesn't always come on after a reset, sometimes weeks go by but it eventually always returns despite my manual idle relearn multiple times. I guess I should bring it to ya for a Consult relearn

I've done this job more times than I care to remember; when I installed OMEs, when I switched to ACs, when I added the spacer, when I helped another member do the same. Granted I'm in CA so no major rust to deal with. On the top driver's side you will have to remove the bracket that's in the way. The last time I did mine I didn't remove the bracket completely but loosed the top bolts and bent the bracket just enough to let me undo the top nuts. For the knuckle bolts, heat them up with a heat gun, tap the bolts with a hammer a bit then spray the whole thing with PB Blaster a few times and let it sit overnight. Do you have access to air tools and impact wrench will typically do the trick otherwise you'll need to use a long breaker bar. Goodluck.

I too had to do this recently. I got two new half shafts from OReilly parts, one was fine but the passenger side was binding pretty bad. I ended up getting the boot kit from NAPA and rebuilding one of my old axles. Also have 2" AC lift + 1" spacer.

Nice! x2 on pics and info. No issues with hitting the control arms with the diff lowered?

Ah ok, thanks...sounds like lowering the diff alone isn't really an option for us.

Just connects via a driveshaft.

I get what a SFD is but it's not the same as a diff drop. For example in the Toyota world you can buy a $35 diff drop spacers. They only lower the diff not the whole subframe. Usually 1-2". But I suppose it depends on how the diff attaches to the subframe.

I added a 1" spacer to my 1 yr old AC springs and am having some camber and CV binding issues. I'm pretty sure CV binding is because of the new re-manufactured CVs I got but it just occured to me if a 1-2" diff drop is possible to alleviate the CV angles regardless? I'm not near my truck so can't verify how the diff is mounted to the subframe but it's fairly common with Toyotas etc.

^ I agree with your deep introspection

Sorry for your loss, that's heartbreaking. If you only do one thing as a result, please file a report about it. I don't think the animals should to be put down but the owner should be forced to fix the fence and get them trained so this doesn't repeat. Dogs by nature are protective of their pack and property, unless they're socialized to accept the neighborhood dogs as part of the larger pack they will see other animals and people as a threat and will react to protect.

Looking great bud! your rig has come a long way with the recent additions, great job!

@Inyourface - pics?? I played conservative and went with a skinny 32" tire (235/85/16) to keep the unsprung mass low, better fuel economy from the lower rolling resistance and higher ground pressure per sq-inch. They meet my needs quite well. However, the big fat tires look great and it makes me and my Pathy feel like a stock mall cruiser lol. BTW, seeing some of you guys running around with these massive tires I appreciate the original running gear (hubs, balljoints, CVs, tie-rods etc) and how it's overbuilt to be able to handle the +30-40lbs tire/wheel combo

Nice! glad to hear they performed well and the rubbing is pretty minimal. Those are some pretty wide tires, at first I thought they were comprable to the 285/75/16 in metric but 12.5" is like a 315mm wide tire!

Well...how was the shakedown ride? Any rubbing issues under flex? how's the power/gearing?

...

Looks like XPLORx4 and I were typing almost the same thing at almost the same time...

I totally hear you man! I got divorced after 10 years and I too am a single dad - of a 9yo. You're doing a great job taking your kids out camping and having fun. They'll remember and cherish the memories for the rest of their lives. I'm very lucky to have found a super awesome gf who helps out a ton OK so as far as the OBA setup, the MV50/ARB etc come with a built-in foam filter and it does a fine job of preventing most of the junk from going into your tires. Assuming that's why you want to do it I just think it's too much extra work for something you don't necessarily need to worry about but I'm not the one to discourage a man on a mission As for the hose, I didn't like it at all, it was cheaply made and I had to thread it in and out of each tire. So, I tapped the MV50 for a standard 1/4 fittings and bought the ARB pump up kit. Here's a thought for you to consider if you want 10sec tire fillups- PowerTank with CO2. They're pricey and you do have to make sure they're full before you take them on a trip but I guess you can't have everything.

The ones I got are the Goodridge ones and they're a very tight fit! In fact, my driver's side one pulled the metal slip-on mount right out at full steering lock. I now have it zip-tied. I wish I'd gotten the slightly longer lines if I knew that these ones would be so tight EDIT: if you want to improve the braking the best setup I've found (after three different brake pads that I tossed in the trash with just a few thousand miles on them) is brand new rotors and Hawk SUV brake pads. I got the Duralast Gold rotors from Autozone which come with a good warranty. The pads are much better than the Autozone or the EBC 7000 pads. With my E rated 32" tires the Hawk pads work a lot better...as good as can be expected from the so-so factory setup. If there was a way to fit the Titan or newer Pathfinder calipers and master cylinder that would be a great setup. Alas too many ideas and not much time.