stioc

Just as the title says I'm starting to put the design together in my head. It will be simple and functional with a swing-out tire carrier. I'm planning on making the base bumper out of 1/8" rectangle tubing. The two things I'm unclear on are: the wrap around the rear quarter panels like the stock bumper and two (more important) how the bumper attaches to the frame/body and if I can use the existing mounts for the new bumper? Without me having to remove the bumper etc already I was hoping if someone here might have some pics that would help me out.

I didn't take that as criticism at all! I read one guy who built his using UHMW for his Baja truck and found that it needed a lot more support than steel. He posted some pics and it looked like a rivets galore! But it was unknown territory to me and I needed something I could whip up in an afternoon. I'm working on building a box around my cone filter, now for that I'm debating between 20ga steel or ABS plastic... Next will be a rear bumper... It's always challenging to find time to lock myself into the garage for a day or two without feeling guilty about not spending time with the family, the dog etc. lol Thanks. I'm not that good at welding but I'm self taught like with most things I pretend to know lol. Also the welding itself is the fun/easy part, it's the cutting, grinding, bending, measuring etc that's tedious work and you usually can't tell from the pics- but I enjoy it. You could say I even find it therapeutic.

Oh no, what's McGuyver up to now?

Really cool pics, especially the ones with the dog! Great job on the truck too btw...not sure about the doors but it sure looks cool without them

Thanks. I know, I need to get different bolts, it's just what I had on hand at the time. Oh I didn't use the existing threaded nuts because they were too small. I used the large holes that are cut out in the cross member with a large washer and 3/8" bolt/stud combo, just that the bolts are long. In the back I reversed the bolts (it was easier to do this in the back) so the only thing exposed are the bolt heads. Got it from Industrial Metal Supply (IMS), they have a couple of locations I got the quote online and then picked it up in Irvine (405 and Jamboree- Alton exit).

Pretty cool, nice job going nice and slow on the rocks. What OME springs do you have on the front? mediums or HD? Sedona is so scenic, I'd love to go one day.

Thanks guys, it's really not that hard to do. Precise1, yeah I would love to have bead rollers and metal brakes but probably won't happen in this life. So I did what I could with what I had. I briefly considered UHMW but I'd have to use a pretty thick sheet (3/8") and it also requires a lot more bolts and nuts and then I wasn't saving as much money either so good-ole hot rolled sheet it was. So far about 90 miles on (granted on paved roads) including speed bumps etc and the plate is as flat as a ruler still

Thanks. It is pretty straight forward to make and inexpensive. Even if I used 3/16 it would've been another $35 or so. The mid-skid from 4x4parts comes to $265 to my door with shipping so I saved myself not only the weight but also just over $200 for other goodies. I want to build the front skid too but it's not a big priority for me since it's mostly just to keep the mud and small pebbles etc away from the radiator and other low hanging parts of the engine. If I build one I'll probably use 14ga or so which would be stronger than the plastic splash pan - which so far is still hanging in there just fine.

Sorry to hear hear that. Do you do everything that projekz does? Seriously though, why'd you sell it so suddenly and what're you thinking of replacing it with?

I picked it (2ft x 4ft) up locally and got a good deal on it - with taxes $52 and change.

A while back I posted the $5 DIY missing link before so here's the $50 skid-plate (the middle one, and the most important one). Cut and paste from my build thread on ExPo. I started building my skid plate today. Since ground clearance is always an issue and not wanting to go any higher I decided to tackle what I've been putting off for a while. I could've bought a pre-made skid but the two available skid plates both had draw backs for me. The first one being the weight- at almost 70lbs using the 3/16" plate from 4x4parts is a bit overkill for me. Two the aluminum version available didn't provide the coverage I was looking for. So the bottom line was I wanted the coverage for the engine sump and and the trans oil pan and I wanted it to weigh less than 40lbs. After doing some designs in my head, I pulled the trigger and picked up a 11ga (basically 1/8") sheet. I then made a rough template out of cardboard Then cut it to size Next, because of the longish span and to prevent the plate from bowing over time I welded some plates. And the skid plate was ready for drilling holes After drilling all the holes I weighed it. The moment of truth...31lbs! Finally I installed it and took the truck out for a 20mile spin There are a couple of tweaks I'd like to do when I have some time: 1. add a flat top on the plates/ribs so if they make contact with the oil pan they don't puncture it. 2. Buy better bolts and washers 3. Cut out a hole for the drain plug 4. Paint it 5. For added support attach it to my DIY missing-link using u-bolts Overall I'm really happy with the results. It won't support the weight of the truck but similar to the factory gas tank skid-plates I wanted at least some level of protection for the oil pans without adding too much weight to the already heavy truck.

So where are pics guys??

Good discussion guys, BTW I found this info in the FSM today so I'll post it here in case someone needs it in the future: THERMOSTAT: Valve opening temperature 76.5°C (170°F) Valve lift More than 8.6 mm/90°C (0.339 in/194°F) WATER CONTROL VALVE Valve opening temperature 95°C (203°F) Valve lift More than 8.0 mm/108°C (0.315 in/226°F) Cap relief pressure (kPa (kg/cm2, psi) Standard 78 - 98 (0.8 - 1.0, 11 - 14) Limit 59 - 98 (0.6 - 1.0, 9 - 14) So how big of a job is it to replace the cooling system parts on this engine? That Water Control Valve is really buried in there it seems I may do everything except that i.e. new radiator, thermostat, fan clutch and waterpump. I've started collecting the parts and I plan to do it all at once in the next few months before the height of summer.

I've ordered a Koyo rad, OEM cap, OEM thermostat. I may also get a new fan-clutch too. I've done the electric fan conversion in a street car in the past but I'm a bit concerned about doing it on an offroad truck. Mainly from over-taxing the alternator perspective where it'll see lots of crawl-speed miles in hot conditions. I feel the stock setup should be ok as long as everything's working properly.

I have a ScanGauge like you xplorx4 so if the water temp sensor is accurate enough then the readings should be accurate too. So I find it interesting...the water control valve opens at 210F? if so then I shouldn't be alarmed by the temps reaching 200-210ish? I know I've seen the ScanGauge reporting 208F on a very warm day (102F ambient) before. I'm still perplexed why the coolant boiled over just that one time? maybe the cap wasn't seated properly when I did the pre-trip inspection. The coolant is about 3 years old, I'll change it soon. I've ordered a new OEM cap already. I may leave off the aux lights but that sucks...I like them there lol. I may just replace the radiator, radiator hoses and the main thermostat, I've heard it's a PITA job on the VQ like most other things

Thanks for the info! Is it published somewhere in the FSM? and s it the same for both the VG and VQ engines? I ask because I read somewhere the VQ engines use a reverse coolant flow or something and uses a water-flow valve...whatever that is. Any ideas why I may have boiled over the coolant? It was a long steep and dusty uphill grade and I didn't turn off O/D. Additionally I had recently installed 6" aux lights on the bumper right in front of the grill. It never happened again once I watched it and used the cabin heater to keep it under control...so I'm wondering if the lights would make that much of a difference or perhaps a stuck thermostat or a bad radiator cap?

I had the coolant boil over this past weekend on my trip to Death Valley - (pics: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/100650-Five-SoCal-trucks-in-Death-Valley) After the boiling over I nursed the truck the rest of the weekend i.e. everytime the temps went north of 197F I cranked up the heater full blast, it sucked for us in the warm weather but it never spit the coolant out again. I do believe that perhaps my radiator cap is not holding the pressure which makes the coolant boil over sooner. I'll probably start by replacing the cap and then see if may be the fan-clutch needs replacing too- they're usually pricey. Going up the steep grades in warm temps I've seen the ScanGuage show up to 202F. I'm assuming the clutch fan engages at a certain RPM and is a single speed? Anyone know what the 'normal' operating range is? I guess I'm trying to find out at what temp should I start to worry that the car may overheat?

Never used the Koni inserts but I have the KONI SA yellows on my bimmer and they've been excellent. You'll have to watch out for the valving on those inserts i.e. what spring rates they're designed for even when adjustable. For the rear I'd go with the Bilstein 5150s like Xplorx4, which is what I plan to do but so far my KYBs are doing decently (not superb but not crap either). Now having said that, when you say the handling it really means different things to different people (just like wheeling etc). If you want less body lean then go with stiffer springs, lower springs and bigger sway bars. A shock while crucial in a racing environment to properly control the rate of weight-transfer, maintain tire contact with the road and control the oscillation of the springs without boiling over, it's not as critical in the everyday driving. Of course, you still have to match the spring rate of the shocks and make sure you're in the middle range of the shock travel at rest for best results but again you'll probably 'feel' a bigger difference when your truck leans less and gives you the feeling of more grip. Don't forget the tires are also part of the suspension and how a tire conforms to the road and oscillates is an extension of the shock. Lastly, OME makes struts that are matched to their HD springs btw...they're a bit spendy but the one account I've read the guy really liked the setup. I wouldn't be surprised if the OME strut isn't a rebadged Koni or a Bilstein. Oh alexrex -

Thanks to Rocky Road, ARB warrantied my front springs and sent me a new set! Something to be said about ARB's warranty and customer service. I did have to remove them from the vehicle and send measurements to them but since I already had the AC's on order at the time I went ahead with removing them etc to see if they will honor the warranty. Frankly I was hoping they'd give me credit on future ARB purchase but they opted to send me a pair of new springs. This time I went with the HD springs (which is what I should've done in the first place) as the mediums are too light. They told me HDs are the same spring rate (nice compliant ride) but about .75" taller and with their trim packers (spacers) they're about 1" taller than the mediums. Sweet! but after having done the suspension work twice in 9months I'll just sell them even though I like the ride quality of the OMEs better than the ACs.

Looks awesome! Those black wheels and window tint really sets it off You should now Plasti-Dip that chrome stuff

If you can lift 70lbs over your shoulder with one arm then you're a better man than I Just test it with your current spare and see. But again, you shouldn't need to relocate a 31" tire with a bit of creative trimming. Now if you want to look 'cool' that's another story

Getting it on and off the roof rack is going to be a PITA. As ramdala said you should be able to fit the 31" in the spare location with a little bit of rearranging. I hear the rubber bumpers could be removed but I haven't looked into it myself.

Take pics guys! I'll be in Death Valley that weekend. Is the Hollister OHV area off the 152? I'm pretty sure I've seen signs there whenever I cut across to/from the 5 and 101. Through the garlic town

Well, this weekend was interesting. I tried to adjust the TPS sensor to see if may be that would help cure the high idle issue. Well after putting it back together now at 1500rpms the engine would surge badly and no matter how I tried to readjust it wouldn't go back to even being how it was let alone fixing the high idle. I messed with it all day using feeler gauges etc, cleaned the MAF thinking may be that would help but nope. So by now I've messed it up even more and I wanted to drive it off the cliff The next day (Sun) after sitting overnight it finally returned to its usual self i.e. high idle with the P0505 code but no more surging at 1500rpm. I have no idea what the heck the whole Sat was about. I'm thinking it's either a MAF, TPS, IACV or ECM in the order from least expensive to most expensive.

Hi Juan, thanks I saw you wrote this: "Long story short, 20 days and three different trips to Nissan later, the issue is still not resolved. If you end up taking it to Nissan and they tell you the repair is guaranteed to fix your issue, make sure you get it in writing." So I thought you too were having the same problem as me and unable to get the issue fixed.