stioc

My full build thread is here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/82167-My-2001-Pathfinder-(R50-)-mild-budget-build

It's nothing fancy but works for me:

Here you go: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35068-my-pathy-grows-up-just-a-wee-bit/

I've read on non-Pathfinder forums when lifting say a Land Cruiser you need to adjust the LSV which supposedly works the rear brakes by determining how much load is on the rear tires. It determines the load by the length of a linkage rod. <google google> Ha! look what I found: http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=605865

The way I installed my spacers I used the OEM lug nuts to secure the spacer to the hub. The spacers came with their own lug nuts to secure the wheel with. If you go too narrow on the spacer the OEM lug nuts may rub the wheel. I believe 1.25" is the narrowest you can go. I have 1.50" spacers.

What's the end goal with the spacers? and what wheels do you have? If you don't want to change the lug nuts, depending on which wheels you have, you probably can't go narrower than 1.25" or the long lug nuts will stick out and rub the wheel hub. Some wheels have small pockets where the lug nuts (the ones securing the spacer) sit.

As I said the test you performed is not accurate even though it's thrown around on the Internet a lot. In most cases there has to be some torque generated for the LSD to function. Also, the Torque Bias Ratio built into the clutch packs determine at what point the torque will be transferred, you can add and remove plates to change the bias from 4:1 for e.g. to 2:1 etc. The clutch packs can also be replaced with new ones. Talk to a couple of differential shops in the area to get an estimate. I wouldn't discount an LSD that easily I know this because in the racing world a properly setup LSD is king (not a selectable locker).

It depends on the type of LSD. I don't know (since I don't have one) what type of LSD comes with the Pathys. A Torsen diff, as an example, without any torque applied will act like an open diff so jacking up the rear and spinning one wheel by hand will not be a good test. If it's a clutch based LSD the TBR factor determines at what point the torque is transfered to the other wheel. A mechanical LSD does keep both wheels spinning. Try doing a burn out or you may try holding one wheel while having a lovely assistant rotate the other wheel, which should generate some torque and thus the power should transfer. Also, as XPLORx4 said the specific oil is important for LSD and yes after 100k+ miles the effectiveness of the factory clutches could be questionable.

Thanks Rick! Your Pathy is one of few that I've always liked. 245/75/16 so approx 30.4x9.6 - in reality they only measure 29.x with 35psi. It's begging for 33s but a bit too much weight I think (my wheels/tires already weigh 60lbs each!). So probably 265/75/16s or 235/85/16s in the future.

x2

Nice score! looks great!

Here's the diameters on the AC coils as promised (in my haste I totally forgot about measuring the free height ): Fronts: top/outside: 5.9" bottom/outside: 6.8" coil diameter: 0.625" Rear: outside: 6.2" coil: 0.635" Hope that helps

Thanks guys! I appreciate the compliments I got the camber down to + .25degs, I couldn't do better- but it's a lot better than it was before. I'll probably leave it like this for a week or two and then go get the proper alignment done at the shop. I also ran the air line for my rear ARB locker and bench tested it for the first time so another busy afternoon in the garage but more details and pics are in my build thread over at expedition portal. Abbie, regarding sway bars, I don't talk about it much because it can be a liability issue. Having said that I know of lots of 4Runner owners that have taken them out. A couple of members here have had their's out for many years. That and the fact that with the stiffer springs, and the truck not being my daily driver I decided to take mine out. Yes the difference is noticable but *I*'m ok with it, for now. So I'd say decide for yourself (based on the terrain where you are, your use for the truck etc) and see if it's worth it to you.

Oh and of course I have a bit of positive camber even with the camber bolts maxed out. I'm about 1.75degs positive on the driver side and 1.3degs positive on the passenger side according to my camber guage. I just eye balled the camber bolts when I slapped them on, I'll see if I can use paper as camber plates if not I'll bring it in for an alignement.

Thanks guys! We'll see in a month or so how the ACs settle to do a true comparison with the OME MDs. I must say the OME MDs were a nice setup between ACs and stock. If I didn't want the extra clearance I would've left them alone for sure. Abbie, I started at about 10am and was done by 2:30pm. Now I have a air tools and a hydraulic lift in my garage so makes things much easier and I've done this job before. On top of that I don't have sway bars either. So I'd plan on a full day and save yourself a potential injury and hassle bring your struts and springs to a shop and let them assemble them. Those little screw type spring compressors are like playing with a hand gernade with its pin pulled. For the OMEs my Craftsman heavy duty spring compressor worked OK but for the ACs they weren't enough. It's worth $50 to let a shop do it on their floor or wall mounted compressor. Good luck.

Oh the OMEs were approx 34" all the way around after settling.

It's done! I didn't get the NX4 spacers in time so I went ahead and used the OME spacers (3/8") in the front. I was really hoping the NX4 spacers would get here in time so I could use the longer bolts from it and be prepared for the spacers down the road but it wasn't meant to be. I couldn't wait because I have a trip to Death Valley coming up at the end of the month and between now and then I won't have too much time to do this. Since we'll also be passing through a couple of tougher sections of DV loaded down with 4-5 days of supplies a little extra ground clearance would be helpful. Anyway, after having done this job twice in 6 mos I don't think I'll be ready to do it anytime soon again, hopefully never! So measurements wise, as soon as I took it off the lift it was sitting at about 37" ground to the edge of the flares! After driving it a bit (and gently bouncing it several times using brakes and the dip in my driveway lol) it's sitting at 36" in the front and 35.5" in the back. This is how it should sit and I hope it doesn't settle more than .5"

Thanks guys, that's what I thought and tore into it this morning. I just came inside the house for a quick lunch break. The rear is done and the front struts are out.

Just want to verify that my thinking is correct identifying front vs. rear: The rears should be straight round coils i.e. the same diameter top and bottom The fronts should be flattened coils with larger diameter bottom and smaller diameter top. AC sucks for shipping with no IDing info, no instructions, all four springs poorly thrown in a card board box that's falling apart and charging $85 for shipping

Agreed on the skinny pedal. The theory goes that the wheel without traction gets all the spinning power as opposed to being equally distributed. When that spinning wheel catches traction all of a sudden the tires hooks in and the weakest link (tie rods, cvs on a IFS) succumbs to the strong forces.

I thought that's what it meant but wasn't sure. That's not a bad idea because unlocked front diffs can quickly bend tie-rods. Is the larger diameter pipe welded on or is it just a snug fit pipe?

What does 'sleeving' the tie-road mean? Of course I know Chico- infamous for the awesome Chico state lol

Looks awesome! nice job man. What part of CA? that doesn't look like SoCal in the background, or at least I don't recognize it.

Any updates on this? were you able to fix the alignment issue?

Too bad you're so far because I'm looking to go to 32" Duratracs which means my 245/75/16 Duratracs with approx 3k miles on them are for sale...if I can get a fair deal out of them.