stioc

OK success! I used a piece of hose (gas siphon hose I had laying around), cut a slit in it length wise, pushed it into the shock and then tapped the bolt into it for a solid fit.

The Gas-A-Just shocks only fit the rear- the front is a strut suspsension. Here's a pic for reference...the upper hole is too large for the bolt to fit snuggly.

The lower bolt fits perfectly in the lower hole of the shock. But the upper bolt has a smaller diameter than the upper hole in the shock. At the very least it's going to make the shock move around and make clunking sounds as the suspension moves up/down. Has anyone else noticed this and has an easy solution? I can try to find a different bolt but that means I'll have to make the bracket holes larger too.

Really nice work. The one thing I would've done differently is instead of welding to the frame I would've used bolt-on brackets so that if I damaged one I could remove and install a different one much more easily.

Yes your best option is to try and get the broken piece out without damaging plug. If you can post a pic of how it's stuck we might be able to offer some suggestions. ^^ x2 I used the HF set and even with the right socket set I had to use a 24" breaker bar and quite a lot of force to get the plugs loosened. I was worried that I'd crack the cast-aluminum housing right at the fill plug, in the end PB Blaster and a heat gun helped getting the fill/drain plugs off.

Another option would be the WJ (Grand Cherokee) bumper. I like the idea of using these bumpers for the same reason you mentioned i.e. not so clunky and a whole lot cheaper too. Yes it will require some custom trimming, extension etc but it's not a big deal provided you have the right shop do it or know someone with good welding skills. To me the slightly tricky part will be the brackets that attach the bumper to the frame since I don't know what the frame looks like but even that shouldn't be too bad.

Nice! How did you attach the sliders to the frame? Always nice to see the DIY efforts and the talent, great job!

Wow, great job! How thick is it c-channel? Do you have any upclose pics of the brackets used to attach it to the frame?

Cool, thanks guys! Appreciate the input from you all.

Thanks for the tips, will do! The coolant color is green. Not a bad idea to check, thanks. Ouch! Is the waterpump a big job i.e is it inside the timing chain cover or outside driven by the vbelts?

Thanks guys. I'm not too concerned about routing the wires from the engine compartment to the cabin, that's fairly straight forward. I'm not sure how to cleanly run them from the ROOF to the engine bay. csutke any issues with water getting under the weather striping where the wires enter it?

My 2001 is 11 years old and as much as I'd love to replace every bit of it with newer parts it's just not feasible. So the next best thing is to fix/replace the weakest links. So far on my to-do list (stock 2001 Pathfinder SE 4x4): 1. Warn Hubs - done 2. Fluids (engine, transmission, diffs, transfer case) - done 3. OME springs - on order 4. KYB shocks - on order 5. New rear trailing arms - on order 6. Fuel filter - have to order still This is pretty much all I've done/intend-to-do to it. Is there anything else I may be overlooking? The radiator has a "08" sticker on it, assuming that's 2008 I'm probably ok there but should change the coolant and potentially the thermostat too? I have a clunk when getting on/off gas especially in 1st-2nd shift, could be the u-joint? Are these a common failure? What about the CVs? tie-rods? fuel-pump? Again in an ideal world I'd replace them all but for now if I could only concentrate on a couple of things my checkbook will be get a much needed break

Hey exbrit, first off I'm in OC too (Lake Forest). Two, why are you adding a second battery? are you planning to run a fridge etc

Timely topic...how do you guys run the wires from the roof to the battery so they're somewhat concealed? I have the same delimma with my CB antenna, not sure how to route it from the roof into the cabin without drilling new holes and such.

Tad, your truck looks really nice, thanks for the pics. This is exactlly how they should've come from the factory i.e. 2inch lift and 31" tires like the 4Runners. That and a locker this is about all that 98% of the us would ever need to tackle the back country.

I've heard of TJM but don't think they make them anymore. ARB are probably sourceable but too pricey and not sure I like their design even though I'm a big fan of ARB products I've seen Tactical Armor bumpers but they look clunky, something that would belong on an H1 or the Abraham M1 tank. I've seen a few custom/DIY bumpers that are functional and look good too, just wondering what you guys suggest. As a last ditch effort I was thinking of finxing a Jeep XJ winch bumper (several aftermarket sources) and adapting it to the Pathy.

Appreciate the feedback! The deed is done...four new Duratracs in 245/75/16 are on their way. Now if Rocky Road would ship my darn OME springs already!

Nice, thanks rgallant! Do you think you'll stick with this size next time or go +1?

Thanks guys, so far so good then. Does anyone have a pic or two? I'm wondering if they look proportionate with a 2" lift? I don't like the little donut looking wheels on a lifted truck and at the same time I don't like the wheels too huge either.

Hey guys, I'm wondering how the truck (OME lift approx 1.75") would look if I got the 245/75/16 or 235/85/16? What can I say I prefer tall and skinny Anyone has any pics of this setup? Since my Pathy sees a fair amount of off-road duty (as well as lots of freeway miles) where the suspension really gets stretched to its limits I'm hoping it won't cause any rubbing issues. The tires I'm considering are the Duratracs.