stioc

Yes, that's why I mentioned manual hubs in my first post though I didn't explain it in detail. But as far as the front locker being more effective than the rear I disagree. 'Traction' (which is what moves the truck) requires forward power AND downward force. While the locker provides the power to the wheel with more downward force (left or right) typically the rear axle will have more downward force (due to weight transfer) and thus more traction so you'll use the power more effectively. Even if the front axle was welded together but if there's not enough downward force it will simply sit there and spin both wheels. Imagine climbing up a 4ft boulder, the weight is on the rear axle, even if the truck was locked in the front it won't have enough traction on the front axle to be able to pull the truck up. There's a reason why the Land Cruisers and FJs etc come with the rear diff lock option from the factory not the front, IFS or not. As I said before though front locker is better than having no locker at all and from the cost point of view the Lokka is a good option for the Pathfinders (even better if you have LSD in the rear) and hence my interest in it.

I'm usually a fan of the ARB products but I just don't like the R50 bumpers (and they want an arm and both legs for it too) I guess personal preference I wish I had the time but it would be a fun little project build a custom bumper or start with an XJ bumper to save time and cost and customize that. I'll be in the Mojave desert Nov 2nd-4th but I'm heading up Thu afternoon and staying in Laughlin overnight for an early start on Fri. We're running east to west. Hopefully the Pathy holds together with whatever steering issues it might be having!

Thanks for the suggestions. In a perfect world I'd have custom front and rear bumpers that don't look as goofy as the ARB's. But that's not in the picture anytime soon. I've thought about getting the oem bull bar like your's but still on the fence about it because I like the stock dual-purpose look. I may just do a custom mount on the rear hitch without sacrificing too much departure angle. Where's Silverado Ridge? I'm leaving for the Mojave desert next week so I need to go over the truck this weekend. I noticed my steering wheel is a big vague when turning it to the right. I also hear a knock when I move the steering wheel back and forth about an an inch or two at rest. Hopefully it's not play in the steering rack.

Not sure if anyone has any experience with this product or even heard of it (it used to be call Aussie Locker), it's a ratcheting style locker and from the theory of it sounds good especially if you have manual hubs. It's also easy to install unlike the ARB air-locker and at $400 it's less than half the price of the ARB. However it's only available for the front diffs of our Pathys- I guess this could be a positive or a negative, a positive if you already have a locker or LSD in the rear but a negative since the front locker is probably not as effective as the rear due to the weight transfer when you're climbing up a hill but better than the open diff for sure. Thoughts?

Thanks Kyle, I also got the plastic end caps for the bars from Thule for $12 and it looks even cleaner now. I'll be honest before I bought the Rola rack I thought its rouded look would go nicely with the pathfinder but when I put it on the Pathy the first time I was really disappointed in how it looked. Now it looks exactly how I'd imagined. It looks like a factory option and actually looks weird without the rack now. Next up...I gotta figure out how to mount the heavy hunk of metal aka hi-lift. I don't like the idea of mounting it to the roof rack, one it's inconvenient up there and two in a wreck that thing can really hurt someone...which means I don't want it inside the truck either so I'll probably be fabbing up a hitch mount of some sort.

No problem, I have the info in my sign; they're Goodyear Duratrecs

Done. The older Pathfinder bars sit slightly lower but still too high for a sleek/think rack like the Rola Vortex, same for the Thule/Yakima stuff not to mention how expensive the stupid towers are from these two companies. I finally realized that I'd have to fab something up myself. The plan was to use rectangle tubing somehow bolted to the factory tracks. I figured the sliding hooks (that held the older R50 secondary cross bars as shown in the pic above) were good for at least 25lbs of loading...though I wanted close to 200lbs so here's what I came up with. So I've got a total of eight feet holding the roof rack on top of the the Thule Load Bars (LB50) cut to proper width. I found the load bars on Craigslist for half the price of the new ones and cheaper than what I could get the bare tubing for myself. I'm very pleased with the results, the rack is on solid and looks 100x better now- I can finally sleep now and move on to other things. Speaking of other things I bought a hi-lift jack and the lift-mate attachment for it. There are still a few more accessories I'd like to buy but man it's one of those things where the entry price is cheap but pretty soon you realize you need a whole bunch of other stuff to take full advantage of it. However, I'm put off by how bulky and heavy it feels. I tried holding it up next to the rack to see if I should mount it there and man it's a pain to lift it up over your head. As cool as this tool is (and dangerous) it sucks how awkward it is, I'm not sure if I want to carry it on the roof rack. I keep thinking if I'm ever involved in a wreck that things going to hurt someone bad.

Hmm, I may just have to fabricate something similar then using 1" square tubing or something.

Anyone know what's the approx weight of the supersliders (and/or the std. sliders)?

These (the middle three bars) are what I'm looking for

Old post but I've having the same issues, anyone know the cause or the fix? I found a service bulletin on fixing the WD21 Pathys but haven't seen anything on ours. I'd be interested in knowing where the module is located, is it still under the driver's seat as with the older Pathys?

I saw narrow, really low profile ones on another member, theexbrit's, older R50. He said they came with his truck. My crossbars have knobs on the side that make them slide forward/backward, his didn't. Were they std on the pre 2000 R50s? where do I find them? I don't like how my roof rack sit so high on my tall cross bars:

Andy, Pathfounder is correct that camber, caster, toe are not affected by the wheels or tires. They're suspension related; think of the strut and hub as a fixed one piece metal assembly for a sec. If the hub of this assembly is pointed inward at a 1degree angle, the wheel mounted on it will have the same angle regardless of its size. Of course, the static alignment changes as the cars drives and the suspension moves which is why many sports cars will run lots of negative static camber so when in a turn they get a full contact patch of the tire.

Thanks Andy, I found one at Autozone near my house for $20 also.

OK, I got the end link off and a new one on. Me is happy now

Thanks guys. I wish the hex bolt stripped right at the begining but the darned thing stripped when the nut is on the last few threads, so it's very loose and will clank and bang in there quite a bit, or worse break the strut-end bracket. I found a replacement 'kit' at a local Autozone so I'll pick it up on the way home and see if I can fix it tonight. Cutting off the nut with an angle grinder should be fun! ugh, I hate it when one simple project turns into another - but it's all part of the game

I know it allows more flex but on some IFS trucks it's also known to pop the CV axles out. In my case I messed up the front sway-bar end-link with a stripped hex bolt and a frozen nut so the only way to get it out is by cutting it off with a die-grinder. So does that mean no off-roading until the new link?

Yeah you're right...not worth all the effort. I thought it was simply a dealer install 'accessory' and all cars either came with the reinforcement or something that could be added on. Oh well. Thanks for the info!

It's not visible even with the plastic panels in the cargo area removed? I was thinking it's probably a couple of gussets welded together that I could potentially mimic.

Anyone have a pic or two of the quarter panel reinforcement?

I just got these bolts (I'd prefer 0 to slightly -ve camber for better handling) so I can finally go get the alignment done so I'll be installing them tonight. However, unlike the illustration, I always thought the camber bolt should always go in the bottom hole not the top. That way the top bolt becomes the pivot point for the assembly. Anyone that's installed them care to comment?

Sears Die-Hard Platinum are supposed to be rebadged Odyssey batteries...even if they aren't I've heard nothing but good stuff about them. Do a google search on them.

6 out of 10 times I can't lock/unlock my doors with the key fob. The other 4 times it works fine. I've tried new batteries in the key fob and reprogramming it. I'm wondering if there's a borken wire or something but not sure where to look.

OK guys so looks like someone put the lower bushing into the top of the shock because the second shock was a perfect fit...just my luck! I'll be posting the before and after of my R50 shortly after the full suspension upgrade.

Hmm, I'll check the box again but I'm pretty sure there were no sleeves included. I may make one out of aluminum later on my lathe when I have some time. For now I need to get the truck put back together. It's been sitting on the lift for 3 weeks now waiting for parts.