stioc

What do you run now? AC springs? why did you switch?

Thanks guys, yeah I was hoping to hear from someone that has the same exact setup and may be some measurements, pics etc. As I said I would love to get 33"ish tires under there but it may not work. I know Fluery/Steve put some 33's but with the AC lift, spacers and lots of cutting. As for why I want them is because the OMEs have sagged more than I'd expected yet I've heard from more than one source (Jeff @ NX4) that the ACs actually sag worse. Anyway, I'm hoping with the spacer it'll be back to looking like a lifted Pathfinder and will open up some space under the fenders to stuff some larger tires. Anyone want to buy my 31" Duratracs with 3k miles on them?

I'm finding that my OME springs after 'settling' (read: sagging) are just about the same height as a stock Pathfinder +/- .75" - 1". At first I was regretting not getting the AC lift (which I didn't because I heard about the top-out 'issue' at the time and not knowing much about it). However, now I'm thinking if I add the NX4 spacer and may be a rear coil spacer from Fleury/Steve I'll have the best of both worlds i.e. no top-out and just about the same lift as the AC lift. I would love to stuff some 33ish (285/75/16) tires under there but flex like this might be an issue. The pic is from this past weekend and the tire size is 245/75/16

Sorry, no experience with the OEM springs but I'd say if you don't want too much lift just get the OME (not OEM) springs. I have them and after six months they've settled to just barely above the stock level, maybe .75" above stock. They're definitely better quality than what you'd find from MOOG etc and gives the truck a much needed SUV stance so it doesn't look like a saggy station wagon. Just my 2 cents.

Thank you for the info!

Yep, the whoosh sound is heard inside the cabin when I depress the brake pedal. The brake fluid is clean and topped off to the max line. It doesn't get hard to compress unless the engine's off. Even with the engine off and the pedal becoming harder to compress it still squishes down an inch. Man, the brake boosters shouldn't go bad at 120k miles (it's been like this since I bought the truck, it now has 130k). I've had plenty of high-mileage cars over my lifetime and while I've replaced a few master cylinders I've never had to replace a brake booster- only once as part of a misdiagnosis by a shop. I hate throwing parts at a problem How did your brake booster replacement go? And what was the cost of it?

Thanks guys. TC, any idea of the part# or where to get the check valve? I checked Autozone's website and didn't see one listed for my truck.

So I found the long thin rubber plug on the back side of the drum about 2" below the bleeder nipple. I pushed the star wheel cogs down (towards the axle/ground) several clicks to adjust the brakes. The wheels now have a bit of a drag. I wanted to back the cogs off one or two clicks but there's a metal tab on the other side of the cogs that acts as a lock so it's not easy to back it off. I could've done it by inserting a thin pick to push the tab out but I left it alone, it's only a slight drag and shouldn't cause overheating. However, even with the adjustment the brake pedal pushes down several inches with a vacuum sound before I feel the resistance. *shrug*

It could very well be a dirty IACV if the issue is only at idle and yes there's a re-learning procedure for the idle speed. But usually that's in conjunction with P0505 or P0100 (MAF)

I get it, the pedal feel. So I'm assuming like all rear drum brakes the adjustment is accomplished by simply turning the adjuster bolt that pushes the shoes out towards the drum? Haven't worked on a drum brake in a long time lol

Did you disconnect it from the pedal side? Never done it on the Pathfinder but there's usually a pin or a bolt that attaches the brake pedal to the booster linkage/rod.

Huh! why is that? I mean when you say the rear drums are responsible for most of the pedal feel. I've always subscribed to the logic that 80% of the braking is done by the front brakes, the rear is simply to stabalize the car under hard braking.

BTW, I was completely dissatisfied with my 2001 brakes until I put in the EBC 7000 SUV pads http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/greenstuff_brake_pads/greenstuff_brake_pads_7000.shtml They're still not exactly confidence inspiring. Mainly due to the long free-play (time between the pedal is depressed and when I start to feel the resistence), flushing the brake fluid didn't make it any better so unless it's just my truck with a potential brake booster issue I would say the OEM brakes even on the newer trucks plain suck, especially after throwing heavy tires on it.

Nick, glad to see you made it over here. Too bad it didn't work out for me but I hope it'll sells. I know whoever ends up buying it will be a lucky person!

Maybe you can pick it up for me and come visit the lovely SoCal

I was going to get it but the shipping to CA is a deal breaker. If you're interested I can put you in touch with the seller. He wants $650 firm for the bumper itself. He also has the fog lights for it, IPF driving lights and a winch (for additional cost of course). I thought the asking price was a steal only if I was closer.

You know the weather is nicer in SoCal, come on down!

I'll have to do this sooner than later...it never ends!

I got a nice brush guard that came off of a 1999 Pathy. The brackets weren't long enough to fit mine so I extended the brackets and finally got the brush guard on. I haven't welded in 4 years but came out ok without any practice welds. ] And of course now that the brush guard is on I'm thinking of removing it already, while it looks nice! unfortunately it doesn't feel like it would withstand to yank straps and makes the approach angle worse

Good to know, thanks for the info since the ignition coils on the 2001s are weak and from what I read not interchangable with the 2002+ models?

It's a fact of life when living with 15+ year old cars/trucks...trust me I know. This is why I do all the mods early on because later you're just replacing parts which aren't fun and moreso if the car/truck is not what you want it to be. When the truck is customized right you just put up with the repairs and don't complain about it. Reminds me of marriage

I have a Scangauge II for monitoring lots of things on my truck especially intake and water temps, voltage etc but mpg tracking is a pain with it unless you always fill up the tank and never forget to enter the fillup in the scangauge. Maybe I need to RTFM lol

Hmmmmmm never thought about this, no expense, better approach angle- me likey! I would think about making a splash shield (with slots for cooling) that goes from the bottom of the bumper to the lower frame support to cover the exposed radiator, it'll also give it a bit more polished look. One could even fab up a winch bracket with a bit of creativity I bet. Thanks for the idea.

haha, yeah the relearn didn't work so I guess I need to clean the ICV and probably change the plugs while I'm in there...I ended up buying the Bosch platinum+4 instead of NGKs which is also why I've been a bit hesitant, the NGKs last longer in my experience and had I known how much of a PITA they are to change I would've spent the money on the NGKs.