stioc

$100 for a preemptive fix is pretty reasonable. Running wheel spacers can blow up the flux capacitor on the CV axles and create a sine wave affecting the harmonic jiggawatter sensor in the ECM

I went to 'CAT Scales' which are all over here and I believe it was under $15 to weigh. It was weird to be sitting in line with the big rigs all around you.

My door jamb says GVWR: 5360lbs Anyone care to post what's labeled on your door jambs? I'm curious if it differs from year to year or US market vs. Canada vs. Europe. It'll be interesting to compare also because of the VG33 vs. VG35- the VG33 models were probably a bit less porky than the later ones?

A plausible theory for sure and wouldn't hurt to check

Haha, the endless reconfiguration...I know how it feels man. If size and weight didn't have consequences I'd be driving a Unimog type of a camper. Alas the Pathy has to make it work and I just have to be more creative. Solo day trips or even weekend trips aren't a problem. It's the 4+ days with the family that makes the Pathy feel small. However, the two things that have given me the enormous amounts of room is the roof rack and the storage platform in the back. I'm a huge fan of storage platforms because you effectively DOUBLE the size of your rear trunk area in length and width while taking away a minimal amount in height. Not to mention the convenience of permanently storing stuff that never has to come out (recovery gear, tools, shovel, axe, spares, etc) after each trip. I honestly don't know what I'd do without the storage platform or my roof rack (and the roof top bag which stores all the camping gear minus the pillows (tent, chairs, sleeping bags, pads, porta-potty tent). My biggest concern is the weight, I really try to be at or under the GVWR and why I weighed my truck fully loaded (before the 32" tires), which came in at 5260lbs (GVWR is 5360). So with all the crap that we haul I'm right at or may be just over GVWR and that makes me happy

Nice craftsmanship there A! good job Lots of room now, let's see it packed. I also like the 12v fridge socket in the back Where are you guys headed this weekend? I'm planning a trip to MOAB on ExPo, it's going to happen end of Oct if you're interested you're welcome to come with us.

Any luck?

Same reason they didn't include the front/rear lockers, skid plates etc None of those are needed when you consider the general public but every little thing Nissan (or any manufacturer) adds also adds to the cost. As for the negative side effects, I haven't noticed any nor can I think of one. I know some people rave about the missing link but for me the difference it made was not night and day. YMMV. I built my own with a pipe/conduit similar in design to the one on the BMWs- same concept though.

Ah I keep forgetting you have a VG33, I'm not sure where the IACV is on that so quite possibly it is under the IM- mea culpa.

Also, if there's a vacuum leak before the MAF (such as the snorkel) what difference does it make? You could even run it without an air filter and it should run just fine. And they removed the intake manifold to replace the IACV? why? Usually only requires removing the throttle body. I'm inclined to suggest bringing it to another place but...hopefully they'll be able to determine the exact cause. Goodluck man I'm pulling for you and your Pathy.

Yes, I would find a good Nissan master tech and have them diagnose the problem especially if it can be easily replicated. Don't tell them what they should do because the goal is to get them to find and fix the problem.

Stumbling is likely due to an ignition miss, which is also causing it to shoot black smoke out the tail pipe. I would verify the distributor installation to make sure the timing didn't get messed up. Although even with a distributor it probably uses the cam/crank position sensors to control the timing? I don't know the VG33s. As for the code, why not replace the knock sensor because that could very well affect the timing and making the car run rich depending on how the ECM is interpreting the signals. After that and replacing the the MAF I would bring it in rather than throwing more parts at it. ScanGuage II reads the info from the OBDII port so not all signals are available, it requires some special X-Guage codes to read the not-so-typical (or even some typical) signals which may or may not work. I have it and I haven't been able to see my O2 or trans temp data.

I didn't read the whole thread but I wanted to throw in my 2 cents. If it's running that rich that's un-burnt fuel getting into the exhaust which is bad for the cats and I bet the exhaust headers and the cats are glowing red. So first thing's first, I wouldn't drive it like that. There could be multiple reasons why unburnt fuel is entering the exhaust, however, the most likely reason is something is wrong with the ignition system- foul'd plugs, o2 sensor, timing/distributor or MAF etc. I had this happen to me once on my motorcycle when the battery cable came loose. It drove me nuts until I found the culprit, so check the basics if you haven't already. I'm assuming you could disconnect the MAF to rule it out? It should run in the richer setting but not so rich as to stall nor should it emit black smoke. O2 is unlikely because you will typically get a code. Speaking of which do you have any codes right now?

No need to replace the shock bolts unless they're rusted. Not sure if it's already been mentioned but you can also use the AirLift 1000 airbags if you don't want a lift but just load carrying ability without sagging the rear. My truck had them and I once put about 400lbs of stuff in it with about 10psi air in the airbags and the rear sat perfectly level.

Sorry to hear about the disability. I would suggest saving up and getting the correct springs and struts. I know it's not what you want to hear but I always say 'I'm too poor to buy cheap stuff'. When you buy the right stuff you cry once. There are basically three springs available from OME, IronMan and AC. AC will give you the most lift but also the harshest ride and they're the most expensive set. I don't have any experience with Ironman. OMEs aren't too pricey ($150/pair) and I would highly suggest the Heavy Duty front springs (they come in Mediums too) if you want close to 2" lift. If your struts are old I highly recommend getting new KYB struts because you don't want to do the work twice- the old struts will not able to handle stiffer springs. The NX4 spacers are for the front struts and are 1" thick. The front spacers with the hollow tubes you're talking about are meant to be for the SFD lift (sub-frame drop) but I supposed you could use them without the full SFD kit if they'll sell you. You could make your own but in the end I would say spend the $300ish for the front springs+struts and throw in the rear spring you already got. The rears are easy to change so you can always buy the rear set later. Goodluck.

Sorry, I thought you were making these yourself or at least buying a batch in bulk then selling them off. If you're having other shops build them that's a bit different and I can see how your own cost is higher I would love to make some parts and I have written a couple of DIYs for simpler projects but my problem is time. I barely have time to work on my own truck without neglecting the family I've been wanting to build a couple of things for my truck and it ain't happening anytime soon

What suspension do you have on your truck and how level does it sit? Let's assume you have +2" springs already which sit level and you want +1" then yes NX4 spacer up front and a 1-1.25" spacer in the rear will do the trick. Making a spacer- sure anything is possible it depends how much time and effort you want to spend and if you have the tools (or a shop) to do it. If this is something you would enjoy and want to take it on as a project working with metal it can be done. The rear's are easier to make than the front. I don't think it's ok to just copy someone else's design but you can use the thin paper-gaskets that come with the strut mounts as a template

Steve, please don't take this the wrong way because that's not my intent. I 100% support grassroots efforts even if it costs me a little bit more and I believe many people share this sentiment. However, only if it's a little bit more. As you can see there's demand here for this product but at a more reasonable price-point. I can't tell you how much you should sell your's for but I can tell you what is a reasonable price to me. Even if you sold your's for $90 I would buy them. Same goes for Daddyrim's spacers. My background is also engineering and I have a small lathe, welder etc at home so I know how much a 6" T-6061 round stock costs, how many spacers I can make out of it and what the laser cut pieces cost if I were to pursue this at a bigger scale so there's still a reasonable amount of profit there. Just my 2 cents.

@linkpark, would love to see pics of the truck with these installed. I'm assuming you also have the NX4 front spacers to even out the front and back lift?

Sorry bud but I'm pretty sure the 2nd gen 4runners had rear coil springs (first gens had leaf springs): http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/CoilSpringSpacer.shtml I quote from the link above: "The extra 1/2" of lift is usually just the ticket to counteract the classic rear end sag common on the 2nd generation 4Runner (1990-1995). Also, since the rear wheel wells are cut lower (by about 3") than the front wheel wells, even a perfectly level 4Runner will look like it is sitting low in back. So having the rear end a little higher than the front can make the vehicle look like it sits level. Note: The coil spring spacers only provide lift for the rear end of your 4Runner." So I reckon the OP was right in listing the correct model years (90-95) of the 4runner compatible with the R50s.

Are you sure about the 96-04? I'm pretty sure the 94 4Runners had rear coil springs. If you do a 'image search' on Google you'll see plenty. I do believe the 96+ were different coils than the previous gen so which ones work with the R50s? As for that Billet T6061 Aluminum for $70 with free shipping? that's a great deal! if it's the right diameter and comes in one inch lift.

So they tightened the nut down too far beyond the threads using a mondo impact wrench which messed up the threads? that sorta explains what happened but I would think that would only mess up the threads on the nut and potentially some bottom threads on the shaft but the middle part of the shaft looks to be ground smooth (not the flat part which probably happened as the nut torpedoed out).

OK looks like it's these and they're Poly. I wouldn't expect more than a couple of years out of them but still not a bad deal for the price. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1PB4

Linkinpark, dude you're my hero! I was planning to make some myself but you saved me the time. At $50 a pair that's a very fair price. I was thinking about installing the NX4 front spacers once my AC springs settle a bit more so this will be a perfect compliment to them. In that pic above did you install them in with an aftermarket spring? I ask because when I installed the AC springs it was difficult to squeeze them in and for a 1 inch spacer in there I would definitely have to compress the springs. Edit: wait, are they metal or rubber/poly?

OK I'm curious how did it fit 33s? Clearing 33s is not straight forward on the R50s.