stioc

I'd get the Denso equivalent http://densoautoparts.com/find-my-part/vehicle-selection

And where would you put the flat 33" tire? I suppose it could go on the roof temporarily if you got a flat.

Just wanted to verify those were the correct part numbers for my 8/00 build-date Pathy with the 3.5L VQ motor. I ordered one #1 coil and one #2-6 as spares. I installed the new ones this weekend and the old-but-working coils are now in the spares box in the trunk. Thanks again AkPrecision!

On the very first VQ Pathfinders like mine the shape of the first coilpack is different- not sure why they did it like that because starting in late 2001 models they're all the same.

Awesome, thanks for the info as i was getting confused with so many different part#s and the build date discrepancy.

Interesting, same thing happened to me after cleaning the TB (never touched the MAF) and after two years it's still idles high. There's no idle screw adjustment on the VQs. You do have to do idle relearning either through the Nissan Consult tool or via the ignition key on/off sequence- which I did multiple times to no use. All my research showed the TB has to be replaced due to the motor control solenoid which supposedly very easily can short out. In fact, I read in some cases the bad solenoid would also short out the ECU component that controls the idle and you end up having to replace both. Personally I've been living with it but eventually I'll try to find a TB on fleabay or a the junkyard.

Cool, I see multiple listed which part #s did you get for your 2001? The build date on mine is 8/00.

Thanks!

Look good. However, I keep wanting deep all-orange sidemarkers similar to the current Tacomas that use them as DRLs.

New KM2s.

I'm about 150miles (x1.6 for kms?) south of SB. What brings you to SB? CA is a great place with lots of fruits and nuts

Did you make sure the mechanic reconnected the abs cables/sensors?

I have no idea what the difference is between the two KYB part#s but my guess would be similar to your's (higher valving). If so, it'll actually be better with your higher rated springs.

Have you tried replacing the gas cap?

Bumpsteer is more than likely bad alignment or loose tie-rods. Not sure on the rattle; it could be a lot of things so I'd start with tightening everything up from the strut to calipers to transmission mounts etc.

Here's what I got from RockAuto. No issues after two years: DORMAN 905804 (905-804) Trailing Arm $ 44.79 x 1 $ 44.79 DORMAN 905803 (905-803) Trailing Arm $ 45.79 x 1 $ 45.79 DORMAN 905802 (905-802) Trailing Arm $ 44.79 x 2 $ 89.58

Thanks for the suggestions guys. If it's the carrier bearing that would be great news! Got a part# or price for it Rob?

I just got back from a trail run on Sat (pics in the pics section), didn't notice anything odd on my 2hr freeway drive home. Only thing out of the ordinary was I had to do a full throttle pass to get around an 18 wheeler. This morning driving the truck to work I immediately noticed that under load there's a very audible whine. Almost like an old school bus transmission whine. It's mainly audible under load and I can hear it best/loudest from 20-40mph after that I think it drowns out under the engine and wind noise. I can't hear it at hwy cruise speeds unless I accelerate. Not sure if it's driveline related (ujoints, drive shaft or the diff it self) or transmission (pump, torque converter). I shifted into neutral while moving but as I said it's not quite audible unless the engine is under load. I'll check the diff and trans oil when I get home but thought I'd post and see if anyone else has run into similar symptoms.

No issues here Rick, just that it's a very well put together Pathy. You did a great job with it so always tough to see it go but sounds like it'll stay in the family. What are you getting next??

^ yes they do. Capt Andy here runs that size and I was considering it at one point too. However, after two years of running many trails from Moab to Death Valley I think the 32" tire is a really good tire size for our size (wheelbase) rigs unless you're building a rig to do mostly the black diamond rated trails or above (John Bull, Dishpan, Rubicon etc). The three 32" sizes that speak to me are 235/85/16, 265/75/16 and 255/75/17 - after the 235s I'd say the 265 or 255 are a better size even if with a slight mpg hit. The 235s are a bit skinny especially with 2"+1" lift. On the plus side I can fit it in the factory spare location under the truck.

Nah, I'm convinced some downsizing of tires will cure all mpg and ill-handling issues, it's been proven on the interwebs before.

Somehow I missed this thread earlier but just to clarify I'm running 32x9.25" tires (235s). I went this route to keep the weight and friction to a minimum. However, the 265s (10.5") look much better and sometimes I wish I'd gone that route because my truck doesn't look as tough with the 235s lol. The advantage of my 235s vs. 265 BFG ATs however is that the former are snow rated, E-load tires and still just a bit lighter than the 265s which are C load tires and not snow rated. BTW I like my BFG AT KOs much better than my previous Duratracs but that's another topic. As for gearing even with the VQ motor I'm still thinking of re-gearing from my stock 4.34 to 4.63 because almost all my trips are fully laden with people and camping stuff and I need more torque. I weighed my truck and I'm a little over the specified GVWR

It's a wear item so don't feel bad. About an hr or so to replace it; it's on the passenger side, look above the oil pan. It goes into the bell housing- I believe 2 bolts and a nut for the cable. Don't forget to disconnect the battery!

Selling the Pathy?? Say it isn't so! What're you replacing it with?

Yeah the nubs look like bump stops to limit how far the axle could droop- perhaps so the springs wouldn't pop out? Oh and I just remembered Fluery made some adjustable links at one point, I can't remember if they were upper or lower or if he still offers them.