stioc

Ouch, that's luck that no one got hurt! I know a guy from another forum who installed ACs on the Monroe struts. Shortly afterwards the strut's lower spring perch broke while driving- created a hole in the fender.

Since we're discussing Seafoam just a word of warning to be careful with the 3M complete fuel system cleaner kit (and potentially all cleaners that could get into the IACV). While it did what it was supposed to do but it also messed up my IACV (not cheap). As soon as I got done using it I got P0505 and no matter what I tried (even took the IACV apart and cleaned it) the code wouldn't go away. It idles around 950rpm in neutral and about 875rpm in D when fully warmed up. Also if I hold a steady throttle at 2k RPM in neutral the engine starts to erratically bounce between 700rpm and 2200rpm over and over again. In drive it runs fine- I've been kicking the can down the road due to the cost of replacing it but I know I'll have to when the smog time rolls around.

Ah..cool, thanks

Are they made by Hitachi? do they come with any kind of warranty?

It's how I roll...

wow, who knew a dead pedal discussion will get so many people piping up Agreed with thexbrit completely - also on the long drives I like having something flat to rest my foot against. I'll add this diy to my very long to-do list.

I didn't know they were available at all but since they were on some models at least I'm going to try to locate one.

I find it strange that my 2001 Pathfinder SE with leather seats doesn't have a dead pedal (left-foot rest)? More importantly has anyone added one? I guess I should look on ebay or drive 50miles to the closest junkyard?

We need to do some trails together...

Nice work with the Dremel What's the white truck in the first pic? Got any more pics of it? I like the wheels.

That's exactly how mine were which I removed after the AC lift but I've been thinking about putting them back in because with full weight the rear squats. Mine had the pressure switch and 12v compressor too, but I removed all that and will go to the basic schrader valve setup and run 5-8psi at all times.

Thanks Rob! I found a lengthy discussion here and the last post pretty much said what you just described. http://forums.nicoclub.com/humming-sound-from-rear-when-car-is-off-t554548.html Where is the check valve, got a diagram handy or reference to the FSM section? I need to order a few things so I might add this to the list too.

Hmm. The fuel filter has less than 1k miles on it- and even if it was old why would it make the fuel pump run after the ignition has been shut off? Is there anything else in that area that could be running/buzzing? I'll check for electrical shorts too but I think it's unlikely.

I've noticed this on multiple occasions that when it's hot out there's a loud buzzing (even with the car shut off and keys in your hands) noise coming from the driver's side rear wheel area. My guess is that it's the fuel pump that runs until it cools down to help extend its life? I've only heard it when it's 90F+ outside.

Anyone interested in the safe operation of the hi-lift jack should get a copy of Bill Burke's "Getting UnStuck" - probably the best (and only?) instructional video on hi-lifts and winches. To address a couple of your concerns Bluewulf74- I would repeat not to use that tow loop for lifting, there're much better/safer ways to do it. Also, unless you have no other means don't use the hi-lift for the casual changing of the tires, even on the trail...they're just not stable enough. The factory jack sits nicely tucked under the rear seat, it's hardly any extra weight to carry around- use that with a couple of 1x8 boards for a base and you have a much better setup for changing tires and you already have it. Or carry a long reach bottle jack from a Land Rover. Use the hi-lift as a last resort tool. I have a hi-lift with the lift mate but in all the trail runs I've done I've only carried the factory jack and a bottle jack from Harbor Freight along with a few wooden boards to provide a wider foot print.

To answer your questions directly I wouldn't recommend using the tow point as a lifting point. Also, with a Hi-Lift it's recommended to only lift one of the four corners of a truck at a time, for which you can use the Lift-Mate accessory that will allow you to lift by the wheel (and take up the suspension droop/slack too). There are situations where you have to lift the entire end of the truck but it makes it very unstable and usually only used to push the truck over...if you've ever seen it done it's scary to watch and do.

You would think keys shouldn't be too hard to make...well this thread reminds me of when I lost one of the two keys to my Ninja. I went to Lowes, HD, Ace etc to have a spare made but they all told me they don't have the blanks for Kawasakis. I thought hmm what's so special about the Ninja blank, they have a mirade of keys there couldn't they match one up in length and width?

Awesome, thank you!! That's also exactly the design I had in mind. I've never built a bumper before nor do I have a good way of bending heavy plate so wanted to keep the fancy 'Transformers' looks and angles to a minimum.

Just as the title says I'm starting to put the design together in my head. It will be simple and functional with a swing-out tire carrier. I'm planning on making the base bumper out of 1/8" rectangle tubing. The two things I'm unclear on are: the wrap around the rear quarter panels like the stock bumper and two (more important) how the bumper attaches to the frame/body and if I can use the existing mounts for the new bumper? Without me having to remove the bumper etc already I was hoping if someone here might have some pics that would help me out.

I didn't take that as criticism at all! I read one guy who built his using UHMW for his Baja truck and found that it needed a lot more support than steel. He posted some pics and it looked like a rivets galore! But it was unknown territory to me and I needed something I could whip up in an afternoon. I'm working on building a box around my cone filter, now for that I'm debating between 20ga steel or ABS plastic... Next will be a rear bumper... It's always challenging to find time to lock myself into the garage for a day or two without feeling guilty about not spending time with the family, the dog etc. lol Thanks. I'm not that good at welding but I'm self taught like with most things I pretend to know lol. Also the welding itself is the fun/easy part, it's the cutting, grinding, bending, measuring etc that's tedious work and you usually can't tell from the pics- but I enjoy it. You could say I even find it therapeutic.

Oh no, what's McGuyver up to now?

Really cool pics, especially the ones with the dog! Great job on the truck too btw...not sure about the doors but it sure looks cool without them

Thanks. I know, I need to get different bolts, it's just what I had on hand at the time. Oh I didn't use the existing threaded nuts because they were too small. I used the large holes that are cut out in the cross member with a large washer and 3/8" bolt/stud combo, just that the bolts are long. In the back I reversed the bolts (it was easier to do this in the back) so the only thing exposed are the bolt heads. Got it from Industrial Metal Supply (IMS), they have a couple of locations I got the quote online and then picked it up in Irvine (405 and Jamboree- Alton exit).

Pretty cool, nice job going nice and slow on the rocks. What OME springs do you have on the front? mediums or HD? Sedona is so scenic, I'd love to go one day.

Thanks guys, it's really not that hard to do. Precise1, yeah I would love to have bead rollers and metal brakes but probably won't happen in this life. So I did what I could with what I had. I briefly considered UHMW but I'd have to use a pretty thick sheet (3/8") and it also requires a lot more bolts and nuts and then I wasn't saving as much money either so good-ole hot rolled sheet it was. So far about 90 miles on (granted on paved roads) including speed bumps etc and the plate is as flat as a ruler still