stioc

Great feedback, thank you! Your Pathy is my Pathy's hero There's a member who's selling a JDM light set in the For Sale section. Just make sure the fitment is correct for your year.

Bad bushings in the rear control arms would definitely make a thud but almost always when getting on or off the gas...initially only when you do it abruptly but as they deteriorate more even in normal driving.

x2 - very functional and tastefully modded R50 with all the right stuff! What mod would you say you like doing but wasn't necessary and probably wouldn't do again? I so want a rear ARB locker and/or a winch this year.

Wow, nice! you work fast That sounds like a fun experiment- did you take some pics?

Funny, I sent an email to RLC fab to see if they could make a custom bumper that looks like the TJM bumper. They sell their xterra bumpers for $550 which is very reasonable and about the extent I would go. Truth be told I'd much rather spend the money on an ARB locker than a bumper.

From the very begining you posted this I suspected the sway bar end links but I didn't say anything because I thought others here have more experience with the Pathys but generally speaking when you say a clunk happens when going over bumps it points to a loose/bad sway bar link. Of course, not always but generally that's all it is. They're cheap to replace ($25 at Autozone) but you can also disconnect both end links (don't disconnect just one or you'll wreck your CV boots) and see if you still have the problem. The only issue with this method is that the end link bolts are usually a one time use item, they get pretty messed up when you loosen them so you may have to replace the links anyway. Although sometimes you get lucky and the end link nut come off easily.

No suspension wear, just tires if you're lucky other wise your axle/CVs and ring and pinion. Depending on what type of a locker we're talking about and whether it's the front or the rear they may have the same effect as a welded diff but only momentarily. You don't drive around with a locked arb locker even when offroad, you lock it, get over the obstacle and disengage it. Also there's more give in the offroad situations so the chances of fubar'ing your drivetrain are less but it still happens all the time especially on those built rock crawlers - usually because they're running full spools with massive tires. In our case, the rear axle on the Pathy is pretty solid and can handle the strain from an ARB type locker (part-time spool) in low-traction offroad situations. The front diff is pretty decent too but not sure about the axles/cvs. Heck, I've seen people break axles from not having a locker too- the tire in the air spins up to a good RPM and as it comes down on the solid ground it immediately gets the grip and snap goes your CVs- something's got to give. On a drift car you have a welded diff on the rear- allowing you to power out of the slides but hopefully on cheap bald tires and a greasy skid pad so there's some give. In normal driving though on high traction surfaces you must hear the tires squeal especially when turning? And in rain and icy conditions that's gotta be a white-knucke-fun ride! Though since you already have experience with a (at least with the rear axle) welded diff you understand the risks and if you want to try it out on the Pathy with a spare diff go for it!

Not sure about thexbrit but DDM Tuning has been selling inexpensive but good HID kits forever. Personally I went with a bulb upgrade and it made a significant difference. I have before and after pics in my build thread on Expedition Portal on page 7.

Oh and a ride into the mountains

BTW, I've been holding out for an ARB locker but I keep asking myself do I really want to spend another $1500 in mods? Sure it'll make things less dramatic when off roading but since I usually travel with others I can always get them to yank me up- why I've been telling 'thexbrit' here to get his ARB locker already

Just for the sake of a more complete discussion I'll throw in a couple of things based on what I've learned over the years: 1. Get a rear ARB locker and be done with it - yes they're pricey but they work and hence you only cry once. 2. If money is an issue you can get a $400 Lokka front locker WITH manual hubs. They work OK but frankly locking a front diff first isn't very effective due to the weight transfer. Since you typically need the lockers going up hill the rear locker has the advantage (why you see factory lockers usually in the rear first). Now see point 1 above. 3. In some situations you can use your e-brakes as a cheap locker, this may help send the power from "the wheel that slips to the wheel that grips- it's the power of Subaru AWD". They even sell dual lever hand brakes to control left/right e-brakes. But in the end you'll want...you guessed it, a rear ARB locker. 4. In theory welded diffs work but as Rick13 said above they only really work under certain conditions, anytime you have traction the wheels wouldn't want to turn and can be downright dangerous in ice. The only purpose of a differential (as the name says) is to allow one wheel to turn at a different speed than the other...that's how a car turns. You weld them solid they'll bind and fight and possibly break stuff. Just my 2cents.

I buy stuff all year round so I didn't get it anything for xmas in particular but my gf got me the ARB tire repair kit and the tire deflator. xplorx4, you need to post a pic of your truck man!

The cheapest Koyo I can find is $170 shipped. The cheapest Spectra I can find is $112 shipped. Here's the text from Spectra: Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium Radiators meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace. That extends to all components, including engine and transmission oil coolers. OE design to ensure exact fit, form and function for an easy drop-in installation Built with high density multi-louvered fins for maximum cooling efficiency Every radiators are subjected to an aging and endurance test in order to validate its performance under extreme weather conditions Engineered to stringent tolerances designed by our in house engineering team who have in-dept knowledge of the OE part it’s designed to replace Gasket and orings are thermal shocked to ensure durability in extreme cold weather Installation guidelines provided in the box Premium OE hardware and fittings included in every box ISO 9001 certified manufacturing plants Note: This radiator has been designed to accommodate both automatic and manual transmission vehicles. There is no need to make modifications to your vehicle if it does not use the oil cooler. The oil cooler is a sealed unit and there is no direct contact with the radiator coolant, therefore no leaks will occur if left unplugged. Also, what pressure cap should I get? stick with an OE cap? I may get the other cooling components at the same time: t-stat, hoses, waterpump, fan-clutch depending on the budget.

OK I measured it, 15.75" on the drivers side and almost 16" on the passenger side. Also, just for the heck of it I measured my tires and they're barely 30", more like 29.75" - I should've gone with the 235/85/16 with 1" wheel spacers

OK I tried them in the rear tonight (OME springs) but the gaps in the coil are too large for it to fit snug all the way around. At first I jacked up the truck, undid the sway bar links, undid the shocks and lowered the axle as far as it would go without ripping the soft fluid lines out but the OME springs by themselves were pretty snug in there already. There was no way for me to wedge the spacers at the very bottom or the top of the sping perch so I chose the bottom coil and buttoned everything back up. After lowering it and jumping on the rear hitch they're (actually less) half snug, the other half is loose even when sitting on the ground. I'm sure with more weight in the trunk they'll help but as it sits they didn't really make any difference that I can tell. In fact at full droop I wouldn't be surprised if I lose them at some point in the future. To do it right they really should go on the spring perches but without compressing the springs that won't be possible, with the OME springs anyways.

Thanks for measuring. My tire size is 245/75/16 so it's actually 30.4" not a true 31" - but close enough!

Wow, I didn't realize just about any 6 lug tire from a Japanese truck would work. Thanks guys!

Thanks man! I'll try Autozone near me and see if they have them in stock.

I'm looking to pick up a cheap 16" spare with 245/75/16 on craigslist or something. I'm wondering what other trucks wheels would fit.

Well, I still have to measure the height from the ground to the pinch weld seam and if it's still 16" that I remember from when I initially installed the springs then I do have 1.75" over Karmann's truck (14.25"). So we'll see. It does look like it's settled down a bit since the install but I was thinking maybe 1/4" to .5" - no worries though hopefully a coil spacer will do the truck. The real ground clearance though, under the diff, only changes when you put bigger tires on, a spring or spacer doesn't make a difference. You're on ExPo, cool, what screename?

Do you know which part# fits the back coils? 1287 or 1285? Did you stuff it in between the coils or did you put it at the very top/bottom? Thanks for the info! To answer your original question I'm pretty sure you'll have to disassemble the strut to let the springs decompress, stuff the spacer in, and then reassemble the strut assembly.

Hmm, even though I have OME springs all around I could use a slight (.5") lift in the back. Do you have any pics of your truck? How long have you had them?

I have the sliders (80lbs) and the OEM hitch over his. Round two: He measured the clearance from the ground to the edge of the pinch-weld seam (under the B pillar to be exact) and it his sits at 14.25". I remember measuring it at around 16" right after the install but I'll have to verify what it is now. The space under the rear diff to the ground is approx 8.8" - which should be the same for everyone with the same size tires fully inflated. In other news, I don't understand how a 1st gen Toyota Tundra lists its GC 10.4" with 265/70/16 tires (and the 3rd gen 4Runner lists it at 9" also with the same tires).

Yeah I too am surprised at the amount of lift. I compared it with another member here (karmann) who has the same size tires on his 2002 but no lift. He measures 33" all around from the ground to the edge of the fender (through the center of the wheel). I have trim packers (3/8" plates) in the front and I measure 34" front and 33.5" rear.

1) OME2923 Front, OME2922 Rear (MD?) 2) KYB Excel G all around 3) I got around 2" inches initially but after 2k miles I think it's only 1" front and .5" rear (anyone else experience this?) 4) No pop at all. 5) Handles fine 6) Wish I'd gone with HD in the rear since I carry most of the load in the back and I don't like the squatted look, not to mention dragging the rear hitch when offroading 7) Stock wheels with 245/75/16 Duratracs with no rubbing