ferrariowner123

I think that tool is the reason no one has found it before, i know while i was looking for it, i was trying to find that 2 pronged claw looking thing that the FSM uses in its diagrams. I know when i rebuild my CV's and replace my bearings ill be picking up that tool. Thanks Trogdor -Kyle

I dont get it guys, i just dont get it. Pathy is sitting on OEM strut bearings, strut mounts, both steering racks bushings have been replaced with OEM, (didn't really need to, but i did) and new KYB GR-2 struts. And she still clunks, much in the same way as before, its less often, but i still get this terrifying clunk coming from the front of the car every now and again. All that's left is the sway bar, i do have new, MOOG sway bar end links and one of the them is installed on the passenger side, but maybe both are tortured? Should i invest in the new sway bar bushings? Thanks for the advise guys. -Kyle

I know on my R50 there were 2 18mm a 3/4 and something in the range of a 18-22mm or something along those lines. But my hitch was a uhaul hitch I believe. -Kyle

I'm going to bump this old thread for anyone who searches and finds this later, I finally check my codes and found that the final culprit was my knock sensor, (check for codes even if you don't have a CEL, mine was stored and was only until i scanned for codes that i found out about the knock) Haven't had a chance to measure the effects of the change, but im confident that the senor was the reason for all my headaches. -Kyle

You definitely got a timing belt issue, as devonianwalk said, a couple of us have had issues with timing, me being one of them. It was a great learning experience. But if it barely maintains speed, and feels like you are sitting in a race car at idle, its off a tooth or two, i had a big thread complaining of the same symptoms after attempting my timing belt three or four times. On a 96, there is no relearning process. Once you can get a hold of the shop, and arrange a date, i would print off page EM-15 of the service manuals, and precariously leave it on the dash or passenger seat, (basically bringing the horse to water) see if they can figure it out. If they can't...get your money back. OR be a baller and do it yourself, its very empowering to do something like that, once my buddy finally got the timing belt sorted (which was the craziest mechanical thing we had done to our rigs) on the 4th time of ripping the front of my engine apart, nothing stopped us, since then, i've swapped 2 engines, 3 transmissions, and rebuilt my front suspension, and just did my knock senor. But like devonianwalk said, you can technically run these engine with incorrect timing before having an issue. It should be fine. Personal experience talking on that one, lol Let us know how else we can help. -Kyle

I never understood why LED lighting costs so much. I know they are CRAZY bright, and compact, but whats in their construction that makes them so expensive? -Kyle

Well, my buddy kinda wanted the same thing as you, so we bought the 1000 watt i think it was from harbor freight a while back and installed it in his Durango. We actually mounted it under his passenger seat. Fit perfectly. But it did have its challenges. We mounted it with the terminals mounted towards the front on the car (power in). Found a 0 or 1 gauge monster amp kit off ebay and used that for a power system and since he is blessed with a body on frame car, we just drilled through cabin floor and grounded it to the frame. For the power out side we used these ( http://www.amazon.co...gree power cord ) and had those run into the regular ole, run of the mill 3 prone extensions and that run to under the dash and then to the back of the car. Hopefully for use to use when we have to time to do more volunteer work. Another friend of mine got a smaller 250 ish watt and he just vel-crowed it the back of the console in his X-Terra. But dont have any reports on they work, sorry.

Doesnt AC sell a fitted R50 snorkel? But post pics of the install, im interested to see the install process. -Kyle

Looks like there is an inner and outer bearing.

I have read this thread 4 different times!! ugh But ill stick my caliper on it today after school. -Kyle

It depends, did you need the inner or outer measurement? i can grab the outer no problem. inner is a little different. lol -Kyle

Well i know i cant beat that. But i bought my R50 in September 2009, with 101k or something like that, and i just rolled 128K

My 96 SE came with an LSD sticker.

ugh, i hate courtesy parts, i didn't know i would be biting this much of a bullet. It will be here tomorrow, paid $25 to have it take over a week. Thanks anyway. -Kyle

ill grab my digital caliper tonight and grab it. Do you need the inner or outer diameter? -Kyle

Independent Front suspension utilizing McPherson style coil on strut design. (some but in if im wrong) but as far as my understanding goes. IF you were to go any higher in the front of the car, the half shafts or Constant Velocity (CV) shafts would be at too steep of an angle to function correctly or if they did function, the stress would be very large and cause them to fail prematurely, this is where the comes into play. They relocated that entire element so that the shafts and everything else stays happy. Also you would have an issue of the suspension arms having trouble (running out of travel), steering, brake lines, camber issues. so yeah. in addition to what kyle said. there are companies would could change all of that and make a product that could solve these issues. but while there may be a HUGE amount of R50's on the road, there just is not enough people taking them off road to justify all of that R&D to get make it. -Kyle

As far i know, you HAVE to order OEM bushings. which is what i did. Stupid i know considering where they put the oil filter you are going to replace them as some point, but only Nissan makes them. -Kyle

I'm WAITING ON PARTS. and funds. Finally got paid. so im ordering some stuff now. -Kyle

He did an SFD which relocates the front suspension down 4 inches lower from the original mount, the 6.5 inch springs are needed if you want a 6" inch total lift, they give the rear the same lift.

Thats awesome to hear. Love finding these old projects that lye around in peoples backyards

Hmmm well have to see what my budget allows, im still leaning towards the "temp" situation of getting OEM and then getting fleury's arms. But thanks for your input. i do really appreciate it. -Kyle

Nah this is definitely suspension related, i feel it through the steering wheel and pedals. Thanks for the suggestion though. -Kyle

Should have seen that one coming. Alright, i think I've got some good answers. Thanks guys. -Kyle