ferrariowner123

Okay, seeing your wheels, i know i want the hub covers. Those make the wheel complete. Looks amazing, winter must ruin the beauty of that paint. -Kyle

If your car had a manual, i would literally trade you straight across. -Kyle EDIT: im an idiot and read too fast, he wants exactly what i hope to create. LOL

Yeah, its a minor issue, just dont be afraid to cut too much. BTW, seeing your rig, makes me REALLY want your front end. Love the look of the newer pathys -Kyle

Nice bro. Looks real good. Annoying they wouldn't mount them. Did they give you some money back for not mounting them?

From talking with him recently, it sounds like he is buttoning everything up with the machinist to figure out price. I wont take a guess at time, because i really don't know, but soon, for sure. -Kyle

I've got a high refresh rate Gaming mouse. Always plugged in for high response. Has Bluetooth capabilities but i broke it pull my laptop apart. i don't know whats going on then. Piece of crap HP no doubt. -Kyle

Under promise, over deliver! It will put you in a better mood if they mess things up, lol -Kyle

I appreciate your input, but several members run 31's with no wear near as high of MPG loss as i have, plus i was suffering since june, well before i put the tires on. I think its the O2 sensors, and when my OBD2 reader finally arrives, i can hopefully get that cleared up. I agree that it would look sick, maybe when i making way more money than i am now and have a 240sx as a daily, i would jump to an SFD, but i describe my income as "Not enough to live on the streets" Im a bit spoiled though. -Kyle EDIT, where did you get Stainless brake lines?

I would, but its a daily driver, and if i got a 4" SFD, i'd need new brake lines, new tires (which i just bought) springs, yeah. Too much to be getting horrible mileage. Maybe one day.

Yeah, i figured as much, ordering an S3 which doesn't have those issue, and is WAY faster than my S2 for online mobile web browsing, perks of working for a Verizon wireless dealer, lol But the courser jump around in on my Laptop as well, given its an HP, so there might the root of the cause right there. But ill see if anything else happens in the future. Thanks -Kyle

Its early in the day for the forum, wait till this evening, this thread will definitely have some more interest. I have been reading this, had to about 3 different times, trying to understand exactly what your doing. Let me check my understanding. Instead of fitting struct spacers, you are just replacing the sturt/shock. with a longer koni shock. to give a better ride? so that the spring isn't ALWAYS topped out? Is that correct? -Kyle EDIT: how much does this cost and would you be willing to either offer this service or give a VERY detailed how to? This looks like a great Fix to the AC lift, to anyone who does like the ride of the AC lift, i have yet to do the lift on my pathfinder, and hearing the ride issues and CV angle, this make me VERY interested to your idea.

Okay, seems like its me, ill log out, log back in, maybe my mouse is playing tricks on me causing the courser to move. Just wanted to be sure. CARRY ON. lol -Kyle

Hey all, just wondering if its my computer or the forum. While replying to thread ill notice the cursor can jump around, its rare when it happens, and it initially only happened while on mobile (android, not using their app). Also, when trying to send a message this evening, the send message box was jumping around my monitor. Its the first time its happened, just want to make sure all is well im my computer world. Has anyone been having these issues or any other weird forum issues? Thanks -Kyle

hahah YES. Picture saved for GREATNESS. Show this to my MOPAR buddies. "CAN YOUR DURANGO DO THIS?? I DONT THINK SO!!!" lol jk -Kyle

Um no, all of those were cases where someone reported a clunking noise, or issues after installing KYB strut bearings. But you already made your choice, not really sure why you even asked us in the first place, but your money dude. -Kyle

dude you already asked this over at Nico and got the same response. http://forums.nicocl...3.html#p6397673 You want first hand experience, give these a read; http://www.nissanpat...earing-warning/ http://www.nissanpat...ing#entry637804 http://www.nissanpat...+strut +bearing http://forums.nicocl...arings#p5959396 http://forums.nicocl...arings#p6400540 http://forums.nicocl...arings#p5868749 http://forums.nicocl...arings#p2649967 http://forums.nicocl...arings#p3024053 I understand your feeling on cost, but you are just going to end up paying for it again. Were trying to save you some time and headaches -Kyle.

a video too please!! -Kyle

HAHAHAHA wow i really need to look closer at the time stamp, lol oops.

He's right, Right below you was a huge discussion on this exact thing. http://www.nissanpat...getting-a-lift/ Wheels and Tires are both discussed here. and i personally have been looking into an exhaust soon as well, our exhaust systems are incredibly restrictive. So there is high potential for large MPG and power gains. But there really is NO cheap options (atleast in my definition of cheap) lift kit is right around $600 to do it right. I've been building parts lists for everything that i need to do to my rig, its not cheap. Right off the bat, springs (shipped) are $440 (to my house on the other side of the country from AC. https://www.4x4parts..._341_8_440.html) You'll want to replace your struts while your in there, Everyone reports good things about the KYB GR-2/ Gas adjust strut series. those are about $120 a pair at best. You'll need to replace your strut mount and strut bearing (at minimum) Those are around $80 for OEM (DO NOT BUY KYB FOR THE STRUT MOUNTS OR BEARINGS) Happily there is a member who can provide genuine Nissan parts in the Services thread. His name is Alkorahil you can find his thread in the servies section. You'll need the rear shocks You can run whatever you like for these. Personally im going to pick up a set of Bilstien's. Those are going to be $150 shipped. All you need is shocks that are two inches longer than stock to compensate for the 2" lift. Next on to wheels and tires, Alot of guys (including my self) like the look and cost of Pro-comp wheels. Check out the thread i linked to for more info on that, don't really want to explain all of that again. Those are $400 at the lowest (for 5) You can also find a good recommendation for tires in that same thread. Thats $1000 for a nice set of off road tires. (4) Gotta pay to play my friend. Do a little searching around the forum, I still find TONS of info everyday regarding SFD's, V8 engine swaps. Tires, wheels, electronics, body repair and armor, you name it. Then, give us a ring when you get ready to throw down some cash for something, just checking to insure your not throwing away money, chances are someone on here can tell you how it will preform, and how long it will last. -Kyle

Well its $495 for the base kit, of steering extenstion and lifting block. $135 for the brake lines (Which you need) Panhard bar drop bracket you need to keep the axle in line $75 if you want to use this guy on the road you'll need the sway bar quick disconnects. $150 (keeps the rear end happy, some people say you dont need them, idk on this one) Then the bolt on WJ spring adapter. $30 and then you need the WJ springs themselves. $150-$175 depending on the lift you get. (http://www.ironrocko...tegory_Code=WSC) you need to modify those to get the height just right. (Rick13 is a good source to see that process) Oh and then you need F-250 rear shocks to compensate for the HUGE lift in the rear. (see this thread http://www.nissanpat...ancho-rs9000xl/) And then to have someone install it, that's tricky, if you look at the how-to's you can see you have to disconnect the front diff, steering linkage, lift the engine up in the process. and then i think it was 01silverpathy who suggested that you get the blocks welded in place so that you don't get a scary wobble at speed. IIRC that's what the reason was, i dont mean to down play this product its served well for Plenty of members and pathfinder enthusiast's. As far as price goes it would be well over $600 to get it installed if i had to guess. I would find (or make) a buddy who has a decent shop (air tools, jack stands (maybe a lift), jacks, tons of hand tools) and get it done that way. Check out krypton's webpage to get a full run down on prices, package deals, etc. http://www.krfabs.co...php?productID=2 -Kyle

Okay, that makes sense on the steering rack, just another thing to add to the list.... And ill paint those mounts, see to it that the rust stops. And i live in an area that isn't prone to rust this severe so it makes me think that there was most certainly a gaurd of some kind. I just need to a look at my O2 sensors, see if i have traced the problem. -Kyle

Alright!! Glad to hear you'll be joining the modified club!! Depending on the wheel, stock wheel nuts should be fine. Your looking for a Conical seat at 60º. Soon after getting my wheels i picked up some Chrome wheel nuts to get the wheel some nice contrast. These were exactly what bought, http://www.brandspor...la-71128ht.html I bought 30 of them to get all the wheels, spare and some extra ones because i knew they were cheap and going to flake off. Total cost was $35. :rofl: Suspension wise, no my rig is not lifted.....yet. She may sit an inch taller or so due to the new tires, but that's not technically a lift in my book. lol As theexbrit stated, im in the process of getting her up in the air. I'm slowly collecting lift parts. Already have both struts and the NX4 spacers, my goal was to knock everything out at once, but i keep my nose to the ground for deals and when i find them, i buy them. I paid less than $100 for both KYB GR-2 struts. Still need to track down strut mounts, bearings.camber bolts, rear shocks. and the springs. But i don't see myself getting that stuff soon, my rig has a bit of a cold and some old parts that need to be replaced. My maintenance list keeps getting longer and longer every day. -Kyle

I know an exhaust is in my future, im glad to here that pea shooters on our rigs are so restrictive, makes me excited to see the gains from my full exhaust! -Kyle

Well i've got some updates. I went under my rig to find out a couple of things. Found out that the transfer case is just RTV'ed togethor. and after thoroughly inspecting my O2 sensors, i found that only one looks to be replaced in that it was spliced into the factory harness, the other three look completely stock. (or just a very good replacement) car was too hot so i couldn't remove them and inspect the tips. Im going to try and crawl under there this weekend see if i can clean them up and notice a gain, if i see anything improving, we have a winner. Is there anything wrong with cleaning them. (i just cannot afford $120 in O2 right now. Tires a friggin expensive!!!) Im leaning more and more to this being the source of my issues. But im still blown away that there is NO CEL's. i have a Bluetooth OBD2 reader on its way and should be here first week of November. Hopefully i can do some digging then, if my cleaning remedy doesn't work. And on a few related notes, i dont think my transmission plug is stripped. Tweedle dee and tweedle dum from oil can henry's must have been an absolute idiot. i think ill just pick up a drain plug removal kit from HF and see if i can get that sucker loose, after insuring the fill plug comes out, lol Also, any opposition to using an impact wrench with the correct fitting? Just keep it on low? Also, on a related note, i saw this a few months ago while doing my timing belt, it just doesn't look normal. Can anyone tell me whats going on here with my steering rack bushings? The one either looks WAY too tight, completely pushing itself out. idk Weird one (drivers side) Normal looking one, (Passenger side) Also, another question, on my Clutch system. There appears to be two bleed nipples. one right near the top of the, almost touching the hood, and the other down on the salve, (i think, brain is tired) is the top one for bleeding the master and the one on the salve for servicing/ bleeding the slave? Last thing: What the heck is this and why do i have it? I have two of them and the are connect from each side at the bottom. (the bar that runs from the bumper to the lower frame area) It looks like the remits of a skid plate? Or is it something included with a grill guard because i think this car had one on at one point. The mounting holes/ thread where it looks like a brush guard would go, are rusty. I would hope that Nissan wouldn't leave these mounting points un-painted, Thats just asking for rust problems Thanks again for the help guys. -Kyle

Yeah, I forgot about that part. hmmm if you can swing it, the extra wheel situation is ideal.