ferrariowner123

I think so, I kinda figured it was suppose to do that, maybe i just started paying closer attention I dont know exactly what they did, but i still dont think they did it right, before i changed my knock sensor, it was idling great, doing it almost immediately after warming up, and behaving really well. Now its just not behaving like i think it should. Really getting old getting this engine to work right. Thats nuts, it really did not want to move. -Kyle

While i do agree with your reasoning and proof, i still maintain that there is an exterior factor beyond where the rubber hits the road. Even with your calculations, i should only see a %3-6 (ish) drop, not including for the wheels (which were installed a few months before, im getting to that), that would be no more than 1 MPG over all. The AMI (angular moment of inertia) would go up with wheels because there is a lower potential energy, so yes, the engine has to work harder. But, a taller tire means, yes, the engine has to work (every so slightly harder) to get the car at speed, but with the dimensions at speed, the engine shouldn't have to work as hard to maintain, it, to the new gearing. so TECHNICALLY a taller tire means less rotations per mile. (to a point i know, but work with me here, were only talking a inch) But depending on how much city verse highway driving you will see different gains or losses. Meaning, that between all of this new gearing, and weight malarkey i shouldn't see an overall loss of what im seeing now. But to answer some of your other questions, i added the wheels on July 23rd. I have ski racks on currently, cant say they have caused anything due the recent erratic MPG i've been getting I'll look into it, im kinda digging having it on my Phone though, really handy. Thank you, i have heard similar claims for guys like devonianwalk, he maintained his MPG after his lift, with manual hubs. So who gets the dollar? because i've seen my passenger side manifold and can tell it was cracked. -Kyle

Well wile my Knock sensor was causing problems, i had them adjust the car around the faulty knock sensor (un-knowing that it was bad) and now that i replaced the sensor, i had to have them undo all of the stuff they did to get it back to normal with a functional knock sensor. So they adjusted the idle, and reset the ignition timing, and some of the other stuff. i can get the full list when i get home. -Kyle

I was thinking that wasn't it for the longest time, but then again, i only just started noticing the leak a few months ago (being able to hear it on start up) Thats true too, were getting a especially consistent cold winter this year, every morning when i start her up at 8:30 in the morning have been in the mid to high 20's recently. Usually winter in Washington is just a lot of muggyness and rain, lots of rain. No i haven't been running the 31's since then, but i only went from a 30 X 9.5 to 31 X 10.5, while i agree with you and rocky2 in saying that bigger wheels and tires will decrease the mileage, but there is NO way that it can go from 16.3 MPG to 13.3 MPG. Also to prove that, i bought my duratrac's on October 12th, and you'll notice there is really no appreciable drop in the mileage i was already getting. Ugh, i keep forgetting to do that, oh and BTW i got a hold of Pablo, once i give the word, im going to meet up with him, happily, he's local. I'm kinda hesitant at buying aftermarket headers, but the price is so hard to resist. Hmmm decisions, decisions. Good, point, i might look into that kit later. Every once and a while ill go back through my created topics and see if i missed or forgot about any suggestions. Thats awesome, Seafoam is very versatile. Thanks again guys, i think we have figured out my problem, or at-least another thing to rule out. I appreciate all of the advise. -Kyle

Around 5-10 minutes of driving from a cold start, sooner if i let it warm up for a few minutes (i try to do this, but sometimes im just plain late). hmmm you didn't change anything else in the process, that just seems too easy? Just trying to see if this is my problem, before i go drop $3-400 on new manifolds. and then another $400 on a new exhaust (gonna do it all at once if its the manifold) But that truely is the only thing really wrong with that engine. I was told that the harmonic balancer is slipping (not oem, stripped my original one after doing the timing belt so many times with a crap tool) That doesn't seem logical to cause this kind of problem. And old (needing to be changed) trans/ transfer/ and diff fluid wouldn't cause this much of a drop either. and Stioc and i have run 3 bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner, 3 bottles in a row at the recommendation of Towncivilian, no change. Thanks for all of the suggestions guys, anything i can rule out, or explore further is very appreciated. -Kyle

I feel like i have exhausted all options!! I took her down to my shop, (they are alright, my last experience wasn't great, but nothing went wrong) and i had them check a couple of sensor's (mainly pre-cat O2's they said they were okay) and got the timing set. Now, you may or may not know, i have been trying to figure out why i couldn't get my MPG over the 13 MPG mark. Everything that you would commonly expect to go, is new, or not in need of replacement. New dizzy cap, and rotor. NGK spark plug wires and NGK spark plugs, engine air filter, mobile 1 full synthetic full flushed through. new knock sensor, with OEM intake manifolds. throttle body cleaned, TPS set, idle is good (ish) O2's are good. The only things im aware of, are a leaking exhaust manifold. and a few unrelated suspension issues. But, my shop told me that my engine "wouldn't get up to temperature". It never exceeded 180º during his test drive. I didn't give it a second thought, because he said that until the computer sees a pre-program engine temperature value, it will keep dumping fuel, till it reaches that set value. It made really good sense to me, and im sure that's very true for a-lot of cars, if not the pathfinder. He recommended getting a new thermostat, and that made sense to me too, because i did my timing belt back in April, and my MPG issues kick in, around mid June. And i used a cheap, Stant thermostat, so maybe it had failed or started opening at the wrong temp. I was ready to breath a sigh of relief that I finally found something that made sense, but out of curiosity, i went over to RockAuto.com (where i ordered my thermostat, among other things) and all of the thermostat temp ranges between 170º and 180º, and i have seen my running temp, through a bluetooth OBD2 reader, it reads between 179º and 186º. So i think its safe to say that my thermostat is working fine. What the heck is left. here are my my mileage reports from as far back as i have. 4/24 -5/1 was caused by timing being off, and on 12/22 i changed my knock sensor. I know she can get 16 MPG, help me get her back up to that!!! -Kyle

Dang, you have a lot more guts than i do, building your own intake manifold for any car is a daunting task. that hose idea, sounds good if your impatient. but after enough frustration and maybe a swear or two, she'll come off. But i got her back from the shop with what sounded like good advice, im going to make a thread about it. but my idle i think was solved by them adjusting the timing, it was off by 5 degrees. and they said something about the thermostat, but ill explain it again in my thread, don't want to explain it twice.

O2's are much easier to change than a knock sensor, at least on the passenger side it is, My rig is in the shop right now, and im having them check to see if my O2's are causing my MPG issues, if they are, a 22mm crows feet will be added to tool collection, Im jealous they don't check for you, but at the same time, im glad they do in my area, its just one more incentive to not mess with the engine of my car, lol And the upper plenum, you'll realize after the first or second time of removing it, that its fairly easy to remove for the most part, its just Nissan thought it would be nice to connect EVERYTHING behind the manifold, where, if you have ever attempted to change your spark plugs, you will see that there is no room. With that said, my suggestion would be to invest in some long arm needle nose pliers, to access some of the clips and hose clams behind the upper plenum, and maybe a handled mirror to see some of the plugs and vacuum lines tucked behind and above the drivers side valve cover and upper plenum. Now i know you know all of this, its more for anyone who searches, and finds this thread in the future. While agree, if the plenums where shorter, it would be easier to work on, but they make the plenums longer, for engines that need more torque, and shorter manifolds, are better for more horsepower. There's are nice Eric The Car Guy video, explaining why that is, i can post if if you like? Keep us posted on your pathfinder. -Kyle

Sweet, thanks man

I'd be interested to know as well, my speedo works, intermittently, i have to tap on the cluster to get it to work, i also have a Speed sensor CEL as well. -Kyle

I am seeing results. and i dont know if you saw my other thread, but my knock sensor was completely cracked and corroded I would say try some of the ways to test your knock sensor, see if you get anything, i got nothing. But, get some new gaskets, and inch pound torque wrenches (honestly the ones from harbor freight have been working extremely well, i've been incredibly happy with them.) you need to get your gaskets set correctly. (which you'll want new intake gaskets if they have never been changed, my original ones looked new but its like $30 for an OEM set, totally worth it if you ask me.)

Did you run a code reader through it? looking for stored codes? and 19 MPG WTF?? HOW??? Like i said, it was the knock sensor for me, still taking it in to have the adjustments i had done, undone, and if that doesn't work its on to O2 sensors. -Kyle

Rocky, i never meant to dispute your thinking with the koni inserts, in-fact i owe you a thank you, because of your contributions, and after talking with exbrit, i was convinced out of doing the conventional AC lift. And made me put serious consideration into an SFD. I have the Koni thread practically memorized in attempting to understand it and seeing ways to improve. Thats how many times i have read it. Because, you were right, no one, that i have read, has mentioned the top out and camber issues up until that point. I am just waiting for more people to try the system and to see how i would go about doing my lift, what i would do and what would make sense ( i have plenty of things to do to the pathfinder before i do a lift.) We initially mentioned the hubs and camber bolts, because it has worked, for people like Rick13 and 01silverpathy, because they have had the systems in place and they reported successful lifts. You have an excellent idea, i think it was your "mine is the only way to do it" attitude that put everyone off at first. But, you are again right on this issue to, i think with the slot, and factory bolts at correct torque (maybe even a little more) this will solve the issue. Snow, have you thought about getting a second opinion for another alignment shop, maybe they can fix the frame without having to go about this slotting process? -Kyle

Well at that point you might as well roll the window down, lol -Kyle

GAHHHHH Looks SoOOOO good sitting like that!!! -Kyle

The plenum spacer would actually be cheaper too, my only concern is the EGR pipe that goes to the manifold would need to be changed, that is, if your area cares about carbon emissions. lol -Kyle

I think it might be a bit of a pain with the factory hinges. I'd look into the Jeep guys. (GASP*! did he just say the name that we do not speak???) Jeep puts the hinges on the outside because it makes it easier to get at the hinge pins. So it could be possible, but i think it would make it more practical if you used Jeep style hinges. So if you could fab up so new hinges are reinforce the mounts, anything is possible with the rights skills, money and plenty of patience. Keep us posted if you decide to pursue this. -Kyle

I've been leaning towards something like that, What specifically was your clunk and what was the solution? I have been told that my rear control arm bushings are blown. Never thought it would cause a bad clunk. Also, did you have the issue while going over bumps? Thats mainly why i think its from the front, because when i go over a bump, it has a faint clunk. Thanks for the suggestion, ill definitely look into it. -Kyle

I bought a set of Pro-Comp Wheels, and had balance issues. I bought a set of rings to attempt and rectify it, with no success. It helped, but it was still an annoying problem. On top of that, the rings will start to melt with them being on the surface of the hubs and Drums. However, someone suggested on here, that as long they are lug centric wheels, while the car is up in the air, use a torque sequence to get the lugs to center keeping them set perfectly around the wheel. My order is hand tight with a ratchet, then 60 ft-lbs 90ft-lbs and then 110 ft-lbs (which is to spec) it seems to work in reducing wheel wobble while braking, didn't have too much of an issue with steering wobble at speed. I only tried the front wheels and saw a noticeable difference in wobble and feel. -Kyle

You wanna talk to them about getting that coil-over Lift kit available? Just make sure i am receiving the first production prototype. -Kyle

Thats whats weird, all the joints of any kind look fine. Nothing leaking. The only thing that is visually blown is the CV's and those i've known about for a while now.

What am i looking for while i do that? -Kyle