ferrariowner123

Your question could not have been asked at a better time, i just went under my pathy to find out the same thing. And from the looks of it, Napa was correct. However, finding out what type of RTV to use is a whole different story, if my t-case ever bothers me enough ill redo it. but i would ring your local dealer, see if their parts department has an equivalent or ring the OP of the GENUINE NISSAN PARTS thread, he's a Nissan part counter rep (i know his name,i just know im going to butcher it if i try to spell it) Hope that helps. -Kyle

Yeah, no problem, if i have the info, ill share. Give us a holler if you have any further questions. -Kyle

Wheels should be fine, as long as the bore is large enough, cant imagine why it wouldn't be. Only thing i can see is the long wait to ship, (you'd think people would be stock up on wheels and tires for the winter and holiday seasons, weird) and i can only locate "Goodyear Wrangler Authorities" on walmarts site, and for the price different to Duratracs, personally i would get the Duratracs, (but that's just me) but the radial build of the the Goodyear Wrangler Authorities should give a nice solid feel for on road use, with somewhat aggressive look. Also, that thought of switching back to your old wheels, its a good idea, just keep in mind its $70 to $130 for a remount depending on where you go, so maybe if you sell the pathfinder some day and keep the wheels that be practical. But if you plan on having summer and winter tires, just get another set of wheels, mounting alone would pay for new wheels in the first year and a half. look forward to seeing some pics here on the forums. -Kyle I missed this from before. Personal i love the big, puffed out, muscular look my new wheels and tires gave me. It breaks down like this. Stock wheels are a 15 X 7 with a 6' backspacing (i think, at-least my series of wheels were close to that) The tires that came on my car were 30 X 9.5 X 15 My new wheels are 15 X 8 with a 3.75 backspacing. So right off the bat, she sits wider over all but 4.5 inches just in the new wheels. Duratracs are 31 X 10.5 X 15 so add another inch and im sitting at 5.5 inch wider wheel base over stock. Even before I got my new tires, the wheels alone completed the car, because on the pre-facelifted pathy's. IMO I always though the fender flares were a bit of an after thought, the wheels were tucked in and didn't sit flush with the flares, giving it an "On stilts" look. On the XE model this wasn't an issue because the XE's (base model) did not come with flares as standard. And then after the tires, it gave it a nice "off road look" with the extra inch hanging out over the flares. Of course pics are always helpful. So right after i got my wheels installed, the new backspacing set the wheels perfectly!!! And then i put my duratracs on and she was sitting real mean now. and then on the matte vs. gloss, i was stuck on that too, i went with a gloss, because it complemented the car, and after having my wheels on for a few months now, i've noticed they don't show as much of the brake dust as my buddies, matte to semi-glossy wheels. I don't know how that's possible, maybe im going crazy. -Kyle EDIT AGAIN: lol If you are looking at the hole shoot look of wheels (that's what i call that look) take a look at these pro-comps http://www.summitrac...5883f/overview/ I hate to be forcing all of this stuff on you, im just throwing out an alternative. Oops, my bad, those are in size 15".

I have selective OCD, my favorites are just one of the "Selective" Items, lol -Kyle

Here is everything i have Favorited for the SFD's Original Thread; http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/27981-krfabs-pathfinderqx4-lift-kit/ Hoe to's http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28342-my-subframe-drop-install-thread/page__p__536836__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=536836 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31584-my-pathy-project-lifting/page__hl__%22my+pathy+project%22 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31251-sub-frame-drop/ Spring Info http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/27483-wj-coil-spring-retrofit/ Related Misc; http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23821-subframe-drop-for-r50/ Its Very involved as you will see from the pictures in the how to threads.

I would most definitely be interested in some parts as well.

When i was replacing my bumper, someone asked me that question, and in Washington (STATE) it is "technically" illegal not to have a bumper, the only exception is there is a time period (i think) that you can go without one, or that as long as you are working on it, it is okay. -Kyle

Hmm that sounds very plausible, was never a whole lot of low clearance parts of the trail, but you never know, ill take a look soon, see i can see anything that indicates a break. Good idea. Thanks bud -Kyle

Bolt Circle needs to be 6 X 5.5 Backspacing is recommend as 3.75 inches if you plan on running a lift. and my offset was -19.00mm, just pay more attention, to backspacing, offset and backspacing both indicate the same thing, just start points are different for the measurements giving a different number. Also, your center bore should be large than 100mm (its the size of the hubs Nissan put on our pathy) If anyone see anything wrong here, speak up, this is all assuming everything is the same between a '96 and '03 -Kyle EDIT: Jegs filter seems fairly useless (because it doesn't exist) Go to this link, pick your desired wheel diameter and width (15X8 will be most commonly run on pathys) and then the list you see should be what fits. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Wheels-Tires/Section/Wheels/Part-Type/Wheels/Wheel-Bolt-Pattern/6-x-5-1-2-in/Backspacing-in/3-750-in/Offset/minus-19-00mm/?Ns=Price%7cAsc&RC=100

I do as well, looks SO TALL without the rear bumper. Need to get a build thread going in the members rides! -Kyle

Wow that looks really clean, nice work! -Kyle

I have 3.75 on my setup. -Kyle

There's a few to choose from on Summit Racing, for some reason, i think either SR is going to stop carrying the 52 Series (devonianwalk as well as myself have these) or Pro-Comp is discontinuing them. (I bought mine from SR, had such a good deal on them) but if you like the hole shot pattern look, SR still have well price 51 series's up for grabs http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Wheels-Tires/Section/Wheels/Part-Type/Wheels/Wheel-Diameter/15-in/Brand/Pro-Comp-Wheels/Wheel-Bolt-Pattern/6-x-5-1-2-in/Wheel-Width-in/8-000-in/Wheel-Material/Steel/Backspacing-in/3-750-in/Center-Bore-Diameter-mm/108-00mm/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc I'd email SR (Pro-Comp is useless when it comes to emailing back) and see what the story is. -Kyle

Well that's pretty cool, i had no idea what that spring was for. Fuel Filter Was changed around 120K so its good there. The recent air filter change was the first time it had been changed, it was sharpied 08/09 on the filter, meaning that was its installation date. so it was due. and here is hoping the techron does it, i doubt it though, i would have seen a slower drop, wouldn't I? not something that fell over the course of 3-4 months in terms of MPG? -Kyle

Well that opens up alot of options. Check out discounts, stock for 16's http://www.discountt...c&typ=Truck/SUV you need to be concerned with the rim diameter, passed that its just staying realistic, do you want a OE replacement or go big? the widths do not need to match up. If you head down to your local, trusted tire center, someone will able to answer alot more of the detailed questions, alot better than i can at-least. I got my knowledge and final setup from this forum. PM'ing members, checking out the Tire Fitment thread, seeing what worked and copied or adapted that for my configuration. After all, that's what this forum is for, its a community, where we try to help people save money, give the best advice (to the best of our knowledge) from personal experience and what we have read, but most importantly to make our rides look KICK ASS!!! Hope this helps. -Kyle

Its called FuelLog, its available on the android market Okay so there is that solved. ill just vacuum everything out till its clean, hopefully my buddy with the bleeder kept the instructions. and what exactly does a load sensing valve do and why is it connected to the brakes? and i will definitely be getting some techron and all of these fluids. car has needed this maintenance for some time now. cant all be mods everytime i work on it i guess. Back to my MPG have any guesses? Thanks for the help.

Thats what im saying, i thought to get this mileage in a pathy, you needed a setup like 01silverpathy's and enjoi408's to get mileage like that. I don't mind it much, because while i do drive alot, im 7 minutes from work, 10 minutes from school using the highway and 10 minutes within everywhere else i go, so i fill up every two weeks or so, but if i know i can get the mileage, i want the mileage. And $5 a gallon is insane, i know ill be picking up a 240sx for a new daily if its plateaus that high. It peaked at $4.30 ish towards the middle of summer and it dropped almost a dollar after that over the next two months. I buy all my gas from Costco, (Work there so its a no brainier) so if its 4.30 in my logs, is 4.45 else where. but going to your question about what i did in June actually brought an interesting answer. I did a little detective work and looked at my old bank statements from late May to early August and it revealed that on 6/18/12 i bought the Washington State Discover Pass (A BS licence you need to park or drive on forest roads or something like that, its a huge fee if you dont have it, one of the many perks to living in Washington State). So this pass was bought right when my mileage started to decline because on that day, i did my first real off road adventure, (if you could call it off roading, in my build thread, there are some pictures of the trails were on) but it would be also the day that my bearing whine started. Also it was the FIRST time I had ever used Low Range (Low gear, whatever it is) other than the day i bought it (to verify it functioned). Could that be the culprit for all this? Somewhere in the drive train? hmm, im curious now. I've seen and used torque, looks like an amazing app, had i known about the data logging, i would have got it a long time ago. The gaskets were not prepped probably then, this is a continuation of my timing belt nightmare with the driveway mechanic, but sounds like ill be heading back in there to get those gaskets installed correctly. Now a vacuum bleeder would speed up the process but will it maintain my pedal pressure (its perfect where it is right now) And question, what is an "LSV" (im sure its very obvious, but im brain farting right now) P/S, while it has never been changed by me, i feel that it has been changed before, because right out of the factory, this car was a fleet vehicle, which means proper maintenance (i hope, im running on that assumption, lol) ill get a hold of some Max life and run it through, see how see holds from there. and is the techron their fuel system cleaner? Wont that gum up the spark plugs? and my SES bulb functions, it turns on for a split section while starting up. Tire pressure i should check, i need to get an alignment, so when i do that at Les Schwab, ill have them do a full inspection. Thanks for the help guys -Kyle

Well stock converted is 30.1x10/17 (Which is somehow wider than what came on mine, i guess Nissan gave up all the cool stuff on later pathfinders, ) and your new dimensions convert to 30.5x9.6/17 which, yes is a little taller, but more narrow over stock. Honestly if you are going to do wheels and tires, and then a lift, go for the 31 X 10.5 X (What ever Diameter). They fill the wells really nice and get a really aggressive looks with the wider and taller stance. If your concerned with trimming, you have to do it lifted or stock, (I believe just not as much lifted) Im pushing bigger tires because no one wants to look like this Plus a taller and wider means more clearance and traction for off road and adverse use. just my -Kyle EDIT: After looking what Duratracs comes in for sizes for 17's i see the issue now, so yes, probably getting the 245's would be ideal for 17's, I was under the impression you were getting new tires AND wheels, if you are, get a set of 15's. It opens up for SO MANY more tire options, (friend with an Xterra, is going from 16's to 15's for this reason) plus and a little bit cheaper. For example: Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac LT245/75R17E1 121Q W $229.00each On discount tire (my local pricing) Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac 31X10.50R15C1 109Q W $186.00each On discount tire (my local pricing again) Only difference is roughly a 200lb load difference and about half an inch of overall height on the 17's which would cause more problems in the 245/75 spec. If you have a discount tire (or Americas tire, i think is another chain under the same ownership) in your area, i highly recommend them. They price match (SO price match them to Tire Rack.com on duratrac's atleast) And at my local DT they gave me two, no question replacements at %50 off, just had to ask for a deal. Plus all of the usual frills of balancing and rotation. -Kyle

haha i didn't even notice they are not available anymore, oops. Thats a shame, because they were $55 a wheel. -Kyle

52 Series http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PCW-52-5883 ^^ Cheapest place to get them. I run those exact wheels based on devonianwalk's recommendation. They look great and are a great bang for buck wheel. -Kyle

I seriously recommend the Goodyear Duratracs, great off road traction, excellent snow and mud use, and they don't howl as bad as you would expect from a knobby off roader. plus THEY LOOK AWESOME. My buddy has these on his Rango for over a year now, has nothing but positive to say about them, plus from driving his rig, I've wanted those tires from the beginning. -Kyle

Well, i didn't exactly use OEM when i replaced the valve cover screws, so they could just be crap. Is there any surface cleaning involved when replacing the gaskets? other than that, its pretty much idiot proof, correct? You either properly installed the gasket or you didn't, and you know pretty quick if you didn't im assuming? The T-case, i have noticed a leak, but i dont think its anything major just surface fluid. plus im on courtesy parts, there doesn't appear to be anything that acts as a gasket or a seal. Is it pretty much dropping the case, cracking it open and then running RTV around the seal, and torquing it to spec?. That sounds easy any way. just disconnect sensors, shafts and transmission, drop it, seal it and put it back in. Steering rack, i dont even know if i want to look, $800 for a new replacement sounds like a head ache for my wallet and my sanity. I've heard steering racks are a BIOTCH to take out. and I have honestly NEVER change the fluid, and I seriously doubt the previous owner before me did, It has never gone dry and only makes noises on full steering crank (turned all the way to one side) which im pretty sure is normal on every car. I'll pressure wash it the lower half of the engine bay on a clear day and let it sit over night to dry off. and ill check it over the coming weeks of winter. Anyone have a recommendation on cleaning solution? I've used "gunk" (the heavy duty gel kind) on an e30 transmission i pulled, seems to work great on quarter million miles of grease and dirt. Brake fluid hasn't been done by me and i seriously doubt im qualified to. Every time i have bleed brakes, (done it on an e30 4 corner rebuild and when I replaced on the rear hard lines on a rusted CR-V) I feel like the pedal goes too far to the floor (at least farther than i think it should), would a vacuum bleeder solve this? I can get a hold of one. I'm assuming there is something in the service manual about clutch bleeding as well or is it along the same lines as bleeding brakes? Also, whats your personal recommendation (Towncivilian) for fluids for all these?( t-case, PS fluid, brake and clutch fluid, etc. ) FIC, i think it was done, everything else related to idle was adjusted. so i would assume he'd look there. Throttle cable has a tiny amount of play, not enough to cause any noticeable issues or improvements. So I have left it alone. I do not believe the IAC was cleaned, looks fairly easy to get to with the throttle body out of way. But im starting have small bouncing issues again, so im taking it back in and ill ask a ton of questions. And if im not having any cold start issues, what do you think would be causing my poor fuel mileage? I have zero SES codes, O2's look fairly new, based on the aftermarket butt connectors running to all four of the senors, MAF was cleaned not too long ago, new spark plugs less than 5K, new rotor right after that, NGK spark plug wires in April, fresh air filter 3 weeks ago. Im running out of things to be wrong, i have a small wheel bearing whine, and two exhaust leaks. But there is NO WAY that it would be causing 3 MPG losses These are my MPG rates per tank over the last few months Ignore the 13 MPG in late April, bad timing caused by el retardo putting the timing belt on wrong. Also, Towncivlian, could you send me those OBD-II Data logs, im very curious to see them, and what you use to get them. I hope everything helps, this is definitely my biggest post. lol -Kyle

Do you know where that relearn process? i feel like the VG series didn't have a relearn process, i dont know why i think that. And my car will some times calm back down while it warms up, i just feel like it should be faster and shouldn't shoot up so fast after driving. And if its not too much trouble those logs you're talking about sound really helpful. Thats exactly what it was doing after i came out of the shop, was working great, and now, it's slowly deteriorating. HOW THE HECK DO YOU GET 20MPG???? I want that!!! I miss my 16 MPG Thats whats happening now, it shoots up to 1800 initially for about two seconds, sits at 1500 then 1100 (depending on the day). and only after getting up to temperature will it calm back down to 750-900 ish. really irritating!!! If anyone has any suggestions, my ears are open for listening. Ill quote what my shop said in the invoice (these guys have the best reviews in town and in this part of the state really) "Found TPS out of adjustment. (I did that) Adjusted to spec. Off throttle switch was not closed. Set as needed. Ignition Timing was 5º advanced. Reset to spec. Throttle body was dirty. Serviced as needed. Base idle was too high. Set to spec. Let vehicle sit overnight and started fine cold, and idled normally. Noted that harmonic balancer is slipping on insulating ring. Needs new Balancer Valve covers are seeping oil. Left Exhaust manifold is cracked in two places. Needs new manifold. Oil dark. Steering rack is leaking and needs to be replaced. Transfer case is leaking at case half's. Clutch fluid is dark." SO they completely failed to mention the second half of that, and im only just now reading it. So im a little surprised so much is needed. Well there goes a lift before the end of the year. -Kyle

Does anyone on here know what the warm up procedure is for the VG series pathfinders, i've been having issues with my 96 manual. I took it in to a shop and that seemed to work and it just seems like all of the old symptoms are coming back, 2k idle for a few minutes to warm up and then it calms down, is that normal? The reason i ask is because im not sure of it actually do it before hand, and the car seems to behave normally (other than the weirdness while warming up) but my mileage still SUCKS!! Im averaging 13.3 mpg, (and before you ask, i got those numbers before i got my new tires) before all of this i was getting average 16.5 ish. So what is the warm up procedure for cold start? what should it do at what rpm and then where should it go after that? I know this is an extremely specific question, but im really hoping i can get a definitive answer so i can take it back it and they can actually find the problem and prevent it from coming back. Thanks -Kyle

I hate to be the debby downer but heard that TAG takes very long to get their products out. And sometimes don't bolt directly on to the car as it should. But this only hear Se so weather that's true or not I'm not sure. Personally I have done zero research and have never dealt with them. Hopefully someone can prove me wrong, because that site looks awesome. -Kyle